AOD Trans conversion

[Custom_Shelby]

Is there a specific Ford AOD transmission (small bell housing) that coupled behind a 302 crate motor, will fit a 57 Ford WITHOUT changing anything to the firewall/trans tunnel?

[Ford Blue blood]

Yes, the AODs that come from any 302 Mustang/T-Bird and many six banger Birds and Cougars.  You will need to modify the cross member.

The transmission mount is a 2001 Explorer 2wd.  The hole in the cross member need to be widened out toward the edge for it to bolt in.  There may be a mount that will bolt up without having to change the mounting holes, I just happened to have that mount.

[Custom_Shelby]

I have one similar to yours, the studs are a little wider than the holes in the cross member, but I think it came out of a Mustang, don't know what year, I'll take a pic.  The big question for me is, will a 302 AOD trans fit in the tunnel on a 57 Ford without making any alterations to the floor/tunnel?  Body & paint as you can see is a done deal so I can't make any changes there.

[Custom_Shelby]

Here's the trans mount with measurements....

[dgasman]

Yes , the aod for a 302 will fit without any modifications to the floor or tunnel . I am also using the trans mount from a 91 mustang.

[Custom_Shelby]

Thanks, I'll try and find a good price somewhere.

[gasman826]

I like using old OEM parts to do upgrades.  For some time I have wanted to upgrade the Raunch Wagon FOM to a COM.  After much research, I have resolved to do the AOD upgrade.  At first look, FOM and COM are both Borg-Warner and the COM was the second generation Ford automatic with many physical similarities.  With the COM advantages over the FOM, automatic shifts through all three gears, passing gear, and more adjustable shift points, the COM appeared to be an easy.  The FOM bell housing will bolt to the COM main case but the torque converter is different.  A later Y-Block flexplate/ring gear was available for '60-62 but are rare/expensive as well the torque converter.  Add in the cost of these two parts, starter, a good COM rebuild and beef up, the cost spun out of control.  So, I have decided to go in another direction and upgrade to an AOD.  The cost will be competitive but more benefits like a more modern starter, better shifting qualities, and over drive.  I am looking at Y-block to AOD adapters and alone shifting options for the AOD.  I have already rounded up the parts to upgrade to power steering using all '64 Galaxie PS parts with '64 gear box and '64 steering column.  The Raunch Wagon is already laid up in the garage for the winter with complete tear down of both doors for new glass, soft trim, and track, roller, lock, and latch cleaning, lube and replace.  The engine and trans are out for leaks, bearing check, cam, lifters, valve springs, intake, and distributor tuneup.  If there is time, some floor repairs and outer rockers.  Winter might be short this year.

[ROKuberski]

Gasman,

Did you do your AOD transmission conversion?  I am considering doing that for my car.  I'm pretty sure I can get a completely rebuilt AOD with torque converter locally for about $1100.  I've only found one supplier for an adapter plate to go between the AOD and the Engine, it comes with a new starter and I think the cost was about $850.  In addition to the big parts there are some shift linkage items, changes to the drive shaft and perhaps a new spedo gear.

I would like to hear about your experience with your project.

I think this would be my last major job on this car, expect maybe to install a machine gun for a hood ornament.

Rich

[gasman826]

I did an AOD swap.  I researched about every alternative and found no good conversion.  After pulling the 292 to replace all the freeze plugs, rear main, and add some performance upgrades, I found cracks in both heads.  With vintage (and new) performance equipment being so expensive and the AOD adapter is pricey too, I bought a low mileage 351W much cheaper than I could repair the Y-block.  I had grown frustrated trying to keep the car originally equipped and I wanted overdrive.  Since the AOD was replacing the FOM, the radiator had the transmission cooler.  The Windsor motor and AOD bolted in like it belonged there.  The cross member does need to be modified but it needs modification anyway.  I started the conversion on the cheap but lost my way almost immediately.  After Ford Racing Aluminum heads, Muthr Thumpr roller cam, roller rockers, Stealth intake, MSD distributor and 6AL CD, Melling oil pump, Ford Racing roller chain, Moroso road race oil pan, Hedman headers, topped off with Holley HP 650 DP upgrades to the engine meant the AOD wasn't going to cut it.  So the I upgraded the AOD with 4R70 gear set, all the big clutch packs, red frictions, best servo, bigger tail housing, LENCO valve body, additional cooler and 3000 stall B&M converter and topped off with aluminum drive shaft with 1350 joints into fresh rear with 3.89 gear, Trac-Loc, Daytona support, QA1 shocks, and DragMaster style traction bars.

The drive shaft will need modifications.
The steering column will need modifications.
The AOD requires throttle valve (TV) cable.

I freshened up the engine and transmission last winter.  The transmission needed nothing (after 3 summers of hard shifts).  The engine needed nothing but got treated to a 408 stroker kit.  550 HP on the engine dyno!!!!

[ROKuberski]

Yikes!  Are the lug nuts all that's left of the original car?

My engine was rebuild 25 years and 10,000 miles ago.  I've put on the 10,000 miles in the 9 years I've had the car.  (The guy that rebuilt the engine and did a lot of work on the car died and it was in storage when I bought it.)  I'm okay with the 292, but I have really been thinking about the AOD, for several reasons.  It will start out in 1st gear for a little more pep and it will cruise in overdrive for a little more mileage/less wear on the engine and I will have one thing less thing to worry about failing with a rebuild tranny.

You mention mods to the steering column.  Other than minor stuff for the shifter to work properly, is there anything else?

Rich

[gasman826]

Shift control has always been an issue with the FordOMatic.  The FOM is a three speed with only two shift positions in the steering column.  The AOD is a four speed.  The '57 column will work if you only want to select over-drive and drive with no manual shift for 1st and 2nd gears.  If that is OK, then the original column will work.

I wanted to select gears or go full automatic.  I also did not want to go with an aftermarket floor shifter.  I had a '64 Galaxie parts car so I swapped in the entire steering from the idler arm to the horn ring.  This change upgraded to power steering, better steering box, and a three speed display and gear selector.  The LENCO valve body upgrades the AOD to full manual shift or full automatic.  The LENCO has a solenoid added to control fourth gear.  I have a switch for race mode with no fourth gear or full auto with overdrive.  The swap like it belonged there and looks OEM.

The '64 parts car also donated its transmission cross member that beefs up the cross member, works for the AOD, and makes exhaust clearance.

[ROKuberski]

Thanks for the response.  I think that I will stick with the stock column.  I figured that with that setup I would only be able to make two selections for forward gears. 

My list of upgrades is quite a bit different than yours.  Wilwood front disk brake kit, Borgeland (sp) power steering, Vintage Air, GM12SI alternator, radial tires and Holley EFI. The car looks stock, but not really, and of course, it's no hot rod.  I shifted into "R" for race and it went backwards. 

Anyway, thanks for your comments.  This will likely be a spring project.

Rich

[gasman826]

...did I mention Vintage Air and radio.

You might want to look at a Ford style 3G alternator...very common, works very well, supports the OEM GEN light.

[ROKuberski]

The A/C compressor displaced the generator, but the same mounting bracket for the new compressor was designed to fit the GM alternator (I don't know if the Ford alternator is the same physical layout.)  The GM alternator works fine in the system and it also works with the dash light, no longer need a voltage regulator.  The only issue for me is that the alternator does not kick in until I hit about 800 RPM.  Once I rev it up a little it continues to generate power even though the RPM's drop to about 550-600 at idle.

[gasman826]

That initial rev-up to get the GM style alternator to kick in is fairly common.  One of my early conversions to 'one wire' has that characteristic.  I just finished upgrading from 6 groove to 8 groove serpentine belt due to slippage with 140 amp alternator.