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Question--- HOOD SUB STRUCTURE

Started by Jeff Norwell, 2016-12-07 07:24

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Jeff Norwell

I have several good 57 hoods and plan to louver one.... many louvers..a very good friend has a louver press with old style clam shell dyes.
But first I need to cut out the sub structure, media blast both sides(carefully ) ....


Has anyone removed the inner structure and then replaced.? I understand the sub structure is folded on the edges.. but I am not sure if I have to go to that extent.
Attached is an example of the area I need to remove.
I simply want to cut it out.. louver then weld back....


Has anyone done this here?


Thanks!




"Don't get Scared now little Fella"

1957 Ford Custom-428-4 speed
1957 Ford Custom 300-410-4 speed


http://www.norwell-equipped.com

Ford Blue blood

Yup, the hood is pinched over the sub-structure and spot welded just like the door skins are.  Not real hard to drill out the spots and un fold the edge to remove the whole thing.  I have the inner for my 62 Bird hood out, gave the skin to a good buddy that is going to louver it for his 57.

Strikes me as being easier to remove the skin then cutting and welding.....especially on such a flat part.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

Jeff Norwell

"Don't get Scared now little Fella"

1957 Ford Custom-428-4 speed
1957 Ford Custom 300-410-4 speed


http://www.norwell-equipped.com

Zapato

#3
'I have a louver press and have done thrat a couple of times for myself. It's the best and simplest way to do it. Plan on doing a hood for myself. Since it's not a money maker for me usually have owners take care of doing that part of it themselves. It's the preferred method in that all the mounting locations remain untouched. Use the thinnest cutoff wheel you can find and very carefully cut out the substructure
Then remove paint and try not to overheat surface while doing so. Louver and reverse your steps. One thing I do is tape 3 by 5 index cards in strips and use them to visualize my pattern. Most of the time I hear " I want louvers" and have to coax their expectations from them.

I plan on having 2 hoods. One louvered one not. From what I can see my hod is folded as you describe and probably spot welded. Am planning on deskinning the hood then louvering, priming and sealing the underside. Then rather than welding substructure using panel adhesive. Going to hsve to figure out someway to make sure.it goes back right. Am sure than you have already visualized a pattern so my only advise is not to overdo it. Lots is great but too much and it looks bad. You don't need a cheese grater looking hood. Did one.that way once kid loved it in my opinion it added nothing to his vehicle. Looked clownish to me.

Zap -  :unitedstates:
Zapato

Cruise low and slow.......Nam class of '72

Jeff Norwell

Thanks Zap....I have a simple pattern in mind...3 rows per side of the hood..3 left,3 right.Longest row closest to the centre peak...nothing past where the holes where the factory hood ornament starts....the louvers will look like a flying formation.
I also have a 56-57 T-Bird factory scoop I plan to use on another hood... but looking at that.... not any sub structure needs to be removed.(or much)
Agree on the cheese grater look....
"Don't get Scared now little Fella"

1957 Ford Custom-428-4 speed
1957 Ford Custom 300-410-4 speed


http://www.norwell-equipped.com

djfordmanjack

Not been there, but from my bodyworking experience and from what others have said before, why not cut/grind around the outer edge of the hood to part the substructure including the spotwelded folded flange from the top. this way you will not get kinks and flaws on the edges of the top section, which almost always happens if you unfold those old lips, not even talking about rust and thin metal problems. then after all is said and done with your louvers bond it together and spot weld it for safety around the perimeter that way you get as little distortion as possible from welding and still have the orginal looks underneath with all correct folded edges. I personally would dare solid welding the whole circumference after that without using body bonding. as soon as you press louvers into such a huge plain surface you will have to metal work the skin for straightness anyways.
I would not cut the substructure as you pointed out because of distortion problems. Then again it would be the quickest way.

Jeff Norwell

Al sound advice and appreciated ....I agree G.
My hoods that i have as spares have a fair amount of surface rust on the underside.So.. getting that squared away first is the priority.
"Don't get Scared now little Fella"

1957 Ford Custom-428-4 speed
1957 Ford Custom 300-410-4 speed


http://www.norwell-equipped.com

Limey57

I had to separate the inner and outer skins on mine due to rust: http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=2427.60 (see page 5).  Quite straight forward, you just got to be careful not to twist it when putting back together.
Gary

1957 Ranchero

Zapato

#8
Jeff,need to add one step. Think off all the cars you've seen with rusty edges on louvers.Most people think the prainter is at fault for not getting it covered  well enough. And they're wrong. It's because the louvers weren't de-burred. No matter how clean and sharp the louver die is there will still be slight burr on the edge. Sometimes varies even on the same piece. I always advise people to use a jewelers file and clean the edge. If not done there is always the chance that ignored burr will break off and eventually  take paint with it and then you get rust. Yup, pretty labor intensive and I only do it for myself. Have given away many a Swiss made jewelers file but whether they follow thru or not is no concern of mine once warned.

Years ago had a datsun pickup and figuredl louvering the hood would be a good calling card. So I did just as discussed cut the structure out. Wire brushed the paint off. Then made some small tabs pop riveted all together  then drove  to a friends house and he welded up for me. Went back home shot some primer/dealer and not a week later a young kid. working as a guard at work decided he had to have it so after coming up with a price a few days later we swapped hoods in the parking lot. Then a buddy of his with one of those really square 70s Toyota  trucks brought me a new hood skin and he insited he wanted the cheese grater look. It looked awful swore I'd never do another one and havent.. Have to draw the line somewhere. As my brother the gun store owner used to say the customer is NOT always right.

Another thing that is overlooked is that punching  louvers not only adds rigidity to a panel but if also will put shape where none was before. Which is why I prefer cutting out the structure as the rim will help keep it stay right to the world.

Zap - :unitedstates:
Zapato

Cruise low and slow.......Nam class of '72

Jeff Norwell

Gary,Zap..Thanks for the excellent info.
Great tips Zap... Thanks!!!!!!


"Don't get Scared now little Fella"

1957 Ford Custom-428-4 speed
1957 Ford Custom 300-410-4 speed


http://www.norwell-equipped.com

ragtop

the last hood I had done had it cut on top of outer brace did not want to cut and drill edges I think I had 360 louver's in it 8 rows in it and just welded it back together  if you cut smaller you have less in it the red car I had cut about the same as your outline lot less louvers in it I think it looks better with more but I have had it both ways I have had 10 or more hoods done but can't find no one close to do them now the last guy was .75  a louver

Jeff Norwell

Yes Ragtop... that is very similar layout that I like... I may even get a little funky and layout some louvers that are spaced like the Ray Brown Roadster...
Very nice.


"Don't get Scared now little Fella"

1957 Ford Custom-428-4 speed
1957 Ford Custom 300-410-4 speed


http://www.norwell-equipped.com