Shake rattle & roll

[ROKuberski]

I am considering installing the Frame to body rubber mounting bushing kit.  It's about $200 from Concours Parts or Mac's Auto parts.  Not cheap, but I need to do something to quiet my car.  The car looks good, runs well and drives well, but it sounds like 60 year old car when driving it.  I have some sound insulation in the doors and plan to add some in the floor, firewall and the roof. 

Has anyone installed one of these kits?  Any comments on problems or the result when completed?

Rich

[gasman826]

FYI...there is a torque spec in the factory service manual for the new cushion bolts.

[RICH MUISE]

Dennis Carpenter is the manufacturer on those regardless of who you use as a supplier. I figure might as well (hopefully) get the freshest ones and buy direct.
So long ago, I can't remember if there were any issues, but I'm sure you'd better figure on having to cut the old ones out. If you're going to/have to remove all of them at once, take some body to frame measurements to make sure nothing moves off location. Probably a vastly different job on a completly assembled car than on a stripped car. Good luck. Nice to hear from you, Rich. Rich

[ROKuberski]

I did this on a '37 Chevy that I restored in '08/'09.  I removed the bolts on one side, lifted the body a few inches, installed the new stuff, then did the other side.

It took a while, but was not too tough a job.

I was wondering if others have done this and has there been a good result.  I need sound insulation too.

Does anyone know how to remove the headliner without doing damage?  It appears to be all done with concealed fasteners.

Yes indeed, good to be back.  Over the past year, I've dealt with my Mom's declining health and then passing plus lots of travel.  It's kept me pretty busy.

Rich

[gasman826]

Sorry for your loss.  Becoming a care giver and then deal with the estate stuff is very demanding and emotional challenge.

I changed the cushions when I had the body off.  The car is so loud, I really did not notice a sound difference.  This time around, the cushions are still in good condition with the addition of Lizard Skin, DynaMat, new seals, new window channels and pillar foam.  Have not tested yet but expect a difference.  The Raunch Wagon got only one door rebuilt last winter...quite a difference!

[KYBlueOval]

Sorry for your loss.  Becoming a care giver and then deal with the estate stuff is very demanding and emotional challenge.

I changed the cushions when I had the body off.  The car is so loud, I really did not notice a sound difference.  This time around, the cushions are still in good condition with the addition of Lizard Skin, DynaMat, new seals, new window channels and pillar foam.  Have not tested yet but expect a difference.  The Raunch Wagon got only one door rebuilt last winter...quite a difference!

Gary.........."and pillar foam."  Could you please tell me exactly what you used, and where you used it.
Thanks
John

[gasman826]

Late models use a foam in the pillars for strength, moisture, sound and temperature.  I foamed every unused space...A, B and C pillars...all around the roof and roof supports...rockers.  If there was a hole, I ran long tubes much like the old process for rust proofing.

[ROKuberski]

Gasman,

Thanks for the kind comments.

I too would like to know what kind of foam you used.  I would be a little leery about using the weather proofing foam from the home centers.  That stuff is pretty powerful when it expands, but if it worked for you, that's good enough for me.

On my old Chevy, I also put in two layers of the "bubble insulation" that has foil on each side.  This reduced the heat load on the car tremendously.  I used that everywhere except for the floor.  I just smeared silicone sealant on each layer and pressed them into place.  However, that car did not have A/C, and the Fairlane has that and a great heater, so insulation is not such a big deal.

Now, I just want to kill the vibration induced sound and road noise.

Rich

[gasman826]

I used the expensive automotive stuff...low expansion and water proof.  I didn't trust the waterproof feature of the construction type foam in the can.  Check with me in 50 years or so...

[ROKuberski]

Is this the kind of stuff you used?

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=automotive+foam+insulation&&view=detail&mid=CE7F30451EE5D15095E9CE7F30451EE5D15095E9&rvsmid=0A332CCA851BA42E580B0A332CCA851BA42E580B&fsscr=0&FORM=VDQVAP

This is an instruction video about 3M automotive foam.

Rich

[RICH MUISE]

Rich. just my 2 cents, but this is a rare time when I have to differ from Gary's advise. Water WILL get in somehow, someway. If you fill spaces like the pillars with foam, there is a good chance it will trap that moisture inside not having any way to drain.. Not good.
Sorry about your mom.

[gasman826]

I used SEM or 3M rigid foam...have to check which gun I own.  I used many tubes of it.  Rich is correct about the moisture but only if moisture gets in...if air tight, then no moisture.  It was the same with the old rust-proofing, if poorly installed and air/moisture got behind the product, there would be rust and likely more rust than if nothing had been done.  I re-skinned the roof panel using panel adhesive so there should be no moisture bleeding through the seam.  I used long flexible tubes to assure no air pockets around the entire roof line and then down each pillar for sealing from air and moisture, temperature, sound, and to add strength to the pillars.  I also foamed the inside of the door frames.  Over the years, it is not unusual for someone to get a little over zealous with Custom door adjustments...bend and kink the door frame just above the door latch.  So I foamed the door frame to seal and strengthen.  Like all new products, test it.  Apply some foam to a prepared surface on a piece of scrap and let it cure.  Subject it to the elements so see for yourself.  Or take your cordless reciprocating saw to your favorite wrecking yard and cut a late model pillar to see what it looks like.  Like I said, check with me in 50 years.

[ROKuberski]

Rich,

Thanks for your kind comments.

Thanks for the information and advice guys.

One off topic question.  How do you remove the headliner?  Concealed fasteners are tough to figure out and I don't want to damage the headliner.  I want to add sound proofing and insulation to the roof.

Rich

[gasman826]

Saving a headliner is an unusual problem.  Usually the headliner is only removed because it is damaged.  Roof collision damage that requires headliner removal is rare.  Even if the headliner looks good, if it has age and smoke damage it could be hard and dried out and crack or tear upon removal.  If the headliner was installed properly, it is under the front and rear glass gaskets.  Are the gaskets old and leaking?  New headliners can be installed without removing the front and rear gaskets so your headliner could be R&R.  The next challenge would be the sawtooth holders over the doors.  As the headliner is installed, the holders bite into and make little tears in the headliner material.  The headliner would have to be reinstalled perfectly the get it aligned with the original bite marks left by the holders.  As the headliner is installed, it is pulled and stretched.  If there is any age on the material, there would be high risk of tearing the material.  If I were paying to have it installed, I would buy a new one.

[Ford Blue blood]

Gary is correct.  Have never removed a head liner that didn't suffer a catastrophic failure!  Those little teeth are most tenacious and do a truly outstanding job holding it in place.