Front spring height

[Wirenut]

Can someone that has cut their front coil springs tell me the finished uncompressed height? I removed mine in preparation to cut. My stock  uncompressed heighth is 16". I'm just now addressing my misalignment issues. Before I cut them down I'd like to know if one ring is the most common removed. Thanks in advance

[lalessi1]

The uncompressed height is simply measured to the point where you cut it. What are you trying to address?

[Wirenut]

I cannot get my front end aligned. I installed a 302 with aluminum intake and ceramic coated headers so my front end sits a bit high (which I like), but I have had to install too many shims and longer bolts attempting to align. The positive camber is greater than I have adjustment for. I have replaced all of the front end bushings, ball joints, and tie rod ends so I know that is all good. I removed my shocks to make sure they were not bottoming out. The only thing I can think of is that the 302 with the upgrades is do much lighter than the 312 that my springs are too long and not enough weight to compress as originally. My next step is to cut a ring out and see if that cures my problem.

[Wirenut]

Several members listed what they did on their springs, Rich posted a lot of information on his trial and error. I figure I'll try cutting a ring off of the original and see what that gets me. If that doesn't change anything I'll pull the front end apart and see if I reinstalled something wrong. The other option would be installing 6 cylinder or Aerostar springs but I want to make sure shorter springs will correct my adjustment before I spend money on new springs. I did a complete frame and front end disassembly while restoring the car, I don't see how I could have reassembled anything backwards or have a left/ right assembly wrong. It must be a coil/ weight issue. I have installed too many alignment shims and want to remove them, correct the issue and align with shims within original thickness. I have driven the car down some bumpy roads as suggested by others but no luck yet..

[hiball3985]

Maybe I'm not quite awake and need another cup of coffee, but if you have too much positive camber it seem like you would need to remove shims not add them 

[Wirenut]

That would be too easy, I've tried removing and adding and haven't been able to get it to adjust either way. Adding shims seemed to take it towards the direction I need. Adding shims was taking the top of the tire towards each other.

[RICH MUISE]

Kerby......I can try and find my uncompressed coil height, but I'm not sure that would help unless you have exactly the same coil springs/spring rate. With that said, it seems like I'm remembering 14 1/4, but will have to verify.
Yes, what end you cut from is important. One end will have just a cut coil. That's the bottom that fits into the pocket (lower control arm), with the coil's end up against the "stop" inside the arm's pocket. That keeps the spring from rotating (important to constrain the rotation). This is the end you want to cut. Make sure you cold cut, not torch. I used a cut off tool, just went slow and used a water spray bottle  to avoid excessive heat build up.
The other end has been ground flat It gets the rubber isolator pad. The pocket in the frame that end of the spring fits into is flat. Don't cut this end,

edit...for some reason, I thought I read your opening post as asking which end is commonly cut..probably not what you were asking, sorry.
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=5795.465

[lalessi1]

Maybe I'm not quite awake and need another cup of coffee, but if you have too much positive camber it seem like you would need to remove shims not add them 

Hiball is right. Removing shims will add negative camber.  Look at how the pivot arm at the top moves towards the center of the car as shims are removed. I have seen positive camber increase when the car is rolled if the toe in is way off? Just guessing. 

[Wirenut]

Now I'm second guessing my adjustments. I'll need to take all of my shims out and start from scratch, which is what I should do anyway before cutting my coil. I must be thinking opposite of what the shims are doing. I thought by adding shims I'm pulling the top of the tire in. It looks like I'm bassackward again!!

[hiball3985]

If you still need to cut the spring, and I've done a few in the past to lower the front, I never removed more then a half coil. A half will lower it more then you think. In you case with the lighter engine it may take several tries a little at a time..

[JimNolan]

I bought two sets of springs from Detroit Spring after talking to their engineers and giving them dementions of the height of car. One set made the car too high and neither set allowed front end alignment afterwards. I ended up going with a 60 year old spring (the one's that came with it). Good luck, they make dropped axles for that.

[Wirenut]

Thanks guys for your input. I reinstalled the spring this afternoon and will finish up the stabilizer bar tomorrow and remove all shims to start with none and see what I end up with. I think I need to before I cut anything. I really appreciate the feed back, great forum!!

[BP57CUSTOM]

I have original 6cyl. springs on mine with a 312 engine and it looks just right. (to me)
Also I cut 3 inches from the coils on my mustang a few days ago and dropped almost an inch.

[suede57ford]

I recently tried S-10 springs from the parts store at around $70/pair on my Ranchwagon with 5.0/AOD, P/S, and Air and it sat about an 1" lower than stock, but really had a nice ride.  I removed a full coil wich made them firmer, but got me a great stance with plenty of suspension travel left.

[lalessi1]

I think I bought MOOG 850 springs (Aerostar) for $58. They dropped the car too low, I had less than an inch of suspension travel, so I bought 3/4" spacers from Summit. They are 600 lbs./inch compared to 400ish for stock springs. Still not totally happy.... I see dropped spindles in my future.