EFI for stock engine/upgrade automatic transmission

[ROKuberski]

Not much to report except I've order the parts for the Holley EFI, including the Fi Tech Command center 2 and they should arrive today.  I've already pulled the gas tank and am prepping it for drilling so I can install the return line.

I'll make a video of the process and post it for all to see.  I hope this turns out as easy as I think it should be.

Rich

[lalessi1]

Can't wait to see the video!

[ROKuberski]

I'll post a few progress pictures later today.  It's break time.

So far, I've got the gas tank drilled, return line fitting installed and the gas tank back in the car.  I've drilled the exhaust line for the O2 sensor.  Carb is out and EFI unit is mounted.  Had to replace the carb. studs with shorter one's.  I've drained the coolant system enough to remove the heater line in the intake manifold.  I am installing a tee there to accept the added temp. sensor, plus putting the heat line back on.  I don't think this is an ideal situation, but I am not giving up the heater without a fight.

I still have to fabricate a bracket to support the Command Center 2 fuel pump unit, that won't happen today, maybe not for a week.  Lots of stuff on my plate in the upcoming week.

All in all, it's going pretty good.  I have not given any blood or scraped knuckles yet.  Did bang my head putting the gas tank back in, but no damage done.

Rich

[ROKuberski]

I did not think I would get the fuel unit mounted, but it turns out that it's a little shorter than I thought.  It is a perfect fit on a small shelf on left side, just behind the radiator.  I have two bolts down into the fender liner shelf and another one on a angle bracket to the mounting hole the side away from the fender.

Things left to do. Run all the gas lines, connect the cables and power, then start the car.  Seems like a short list, but it will take a while.  I've found that the stock air cleaner will not fit over this unit.  Lots of bumps on the bottom.  I may try to make a steel collar to raise it up enough so that it will work.  That would be my preference. 

I've got some other things to do tomorrow, but should be able to put in at least three hours on this project and that will go a long ways toward completion.

Rich

[gasman826]

coolant temp is a critical input to the ECM.  The link is one alternative for adding another coolant sensor.  Although if using this alternative, I would add a ground wire to assure sensor performance.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/38mm-SILVER-Radiator-hose-Coolant-Temperature-temp-sender-Gauge-sensor-adaptor/253894581802?hash=item3b1d4bde2a&enc=AQADAAADEFjVrDbVsZ8oH%2F8PNHtt9VX4%2Fw7FZcmMuqsX8uaFEduVIX7aQ9qCJLz0wY1adePHfGS2N4KZ5yzQlms0ODdg%2F2oQPc7dY1vEeNl1mr2%2BnvAdNABJDXAewymlGkaD1bediVBMoO2yXMKYtnrjlYWd1FC9M%2Fim3FC8Cyiyz8Tjp5GyrFdD%2BZCFMPG4CQhDhFhh3Omb1JsbGgywozr7yaTdi0lIT3NVqMRYOOOhoKQCoOdXC7sWGUDK%2FcefTh7zEAZoUEZbaifsdYYXCGF8zjATr%2FiAmn0LOtkqssdrHMFVKwuOU4tAwfjb13jzcNtggWbNHL73aHS2kTAJTYAjbsCwHFEI7EqRhAy4cLoWDDicGf3Fh6q6A9V0vEsLRpHR4u9zyeXOyxLt37uNNQpTVsoFmVNd7ezWOoKy7feTZuNIYZnzWJFYA73GMZtP0DTRSTRu0Yk8ncfCGdwUW3vWb9jEhTSn%2BVBmICLW38oLAdtQwMZsP07h4NcWYmA5EbUSarBlSo9UmW4wc9ylhxXUNZPL3LZd1QQ%2FvQYPIoaN%2FmToZd2esJY0SXGx4hiB0I5%2Bo4KfiVnVUccAhekzxKwAFRFMfIn6Gzoeb1YJRDQXVxB96ywOdhdC79EfR9he3TZUsURZ3o3iDJ6L7Al5dxmTQA7gW9nFyCBkrxstIBav1jziOy7ixlfEamE3RivSlEwbd4z9BNv%2BvwUIjnTQAd4XBj6dzk42QUDC1eWN9dvpAwFmDuH9RkJdUaex651INxhKfeWRGDJg9dpuousjSgyCDtpSCrayrBOOvAFXgCl%2F6xFmZsSfWmii%2Feh4413hmnt8gX%2FJ0h75rnhZjnyY%2BMEF4H5VRhiaeBVNM407LotHORVMe8Y8EvK7hvcZniCJ6vrbANKt2vJiVvrh%2BgmjAAnQTStT7QSulU%2FARj6wESqiXb1mLqVVPY62Bz5GQNAwYmupZBNRlolUDQf1mGdGWMbX5d6Mf3DTjmzSEdlv0leo1CEtSdR6Oi4B3LjrHlpOtCg6c1SJcNZoMZ13jE%2F5ttPmBULkiCU%3D&checksum=253894581802375629029545435d92c0aba1c6048cd3

There are also inexpensive air cleaner spacers.

[ROKuberski]

That would put the sensor in line with the heater line.  I think in the winter there would be a good flow of hot water past the sensor.  In the summer, there will not be flow in that line.  I've considered putting a small piece of ridged glass insulation on that tee.  That would help it keep engine temp. 

I'll look into a spacer for the air cleaner.  I also have another air cleaner that I used before I found an original one.  It likely has better air flow than the original air cleaner.

Thanks for the link.

I just looked for air cleaner spacers and there are a bunch out there.  The plastic one's seem to have low ratings, but there are metal ones too.  Thanks for the clue.

Rich

[Ford Blue blood]

Gary is correct, engine coolant temp is critical.  I would drill and tap a new hole for the sensor next to the heater outlet.  Use a magnet to get the metal shavings out of the  coolant passage after the tap is completed.  Do not used Teflon tape when installing the sender, just a good ol thread sealer will work and not prevent electrical isolation of the sensor.

[ROKuberski]

Guys, thanks for the feedback.  I am going to send the picture to Holley in the morning to see what that have to say.  If what I have done won't work, I think this is a simpler solution.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Inline-Radiator-Hose-Temperature-Switch-Adapter-3-8-NPT-1-1-2-OD-38mm-OD-/312172583810

I would install the temp sensor in the intake manifold and let the heater return line go directly into the radiator hose.  I know it would be on the wrong side of the T-Stat, but I don't think it would make a big difference.  If heater water was flowing and if the engine T-Stat was closed, a small amount of water would go around the T-Stat. 

Rich

[dgasman]

My cure for the temp sending unit was to make a spacer between the thermostat housing and intake manifold like ford did on the 58 Edsel . Yes it's a fe motor but I don't know why it wouldn't work for a y block .

[ROKuberski]

Very nice looking unit you made.  I've got a friend that was a research engineer for Ford.  I've discussed the issue with him.  He feels it is very important to have the temp sensor in the intake manifold.  I've removed the tee that I made and installed the sensor in the intake manifold.  I've also ordered the radiator hose modification and will install the heater return line into this.

I've got the fuel lines complete, including the return line to the gas tank.  I've also started to run all of the wiring cables.  There is no way to conceal all of this stuff, but I am trying to keep it as neat as I can.  I also discovered that I don't need to raise the air cleaner.  It was sitting on the disconnected vacuum line for the distributor.  That is no longer a hard line, but a rubber vacuum line connected to the EFI unit. 

I've also reread both installation manuals again and now feel pretty good about everything I've got done and still have to do.  There is a procedure in the Command Center 2 unit on getting fuel going again.  You will be starting out with a system completely empty of fuel.  The engine needs to crank to fill the Command Center with fuel because it uses the original fuel pump to provide fuel to it.  There are enough warnings in the manuals about screwing up and destroying equipment that I want to make sure, well as sure as possible, that I make no errors that cause damage.

Not going to get much done this week as it now looks, but I hope to have it running by the weekend.

[dgasman]

Yes your friend is right you want that sensor in the intake flow that's why having the spacer behind the t stat it's still in the flow of the water and it does not affect the heater . On my spacer you see both the efi and factory temp sensor , that is because the previous owner removed the temp sensor from the bypass hose as was factory on a 352 in 58 and then installed it into the heater hose . This made the factory gauge always read hot . the spacer I made is easy to make . No fancy tools or equipment needed . All I used was a peice of 1 inch thick aluminum a hacksaw a hole saw two drills and taps for the sensor and 1 hourish of time . In this pic you will see it all together and my other temp sensor in the heater hose T . This easy fix will save you all kinds of issue in my opinion from someone who has been there

[ROKuberski]

For a hand made piece, this looks great and it does the job.  It's also a cleaner installation that what I will do.

I am enjoying the project, but as always, I look forward to completion.

Rich

[ROKuberski]

Brief update.  All equipment is mounted, wiring is about 75% done.  Still need my heater hose fitting to be delivered, likely Saturday. 

Had an issue with connecting the throttle linkage.  Stock linkage is perfect fit, but I could not figure out how to attach it to the EFI unit.  The plate it attaches to is thicker and the mounting hole is a little deeper down so that the stock retainer clip would not work. I finally ordered a ball joint fitting, but that is threaded 3/16"-32.  To use that, I would have had to cut off the 90 degree end of the linkage and thread it to accept the new part.  I searched high and low and cannot find a die for this.  So, this afternoon, I did what I had previously rejected as not doable. 

I drilled a 1/16" hole in the end of the rod, put in a washer and cotter pin and I think this will work just fine.

[ROKuberski]

Another update.

It works!

I completed minor items yesterday afternoon and then powered up the system.  You have to set the parameters on the computer then start the engine to begin the learning cycle.  I did get it started immediately, but in my haste, I did not finish reading the instructions and was concerned by the high idle speed, doing about 2,250.  So, I reset everything and started over.  I could not get the engine started and gave up for the night.  This morning, I once again went through the set up instructions and the engine started up fine.  After it got to operating temp, I made the idle adjustment.  I currently have it idling at 650, but I know the factory setting should be 475.  I've never had it idle that low.

On the throttle ball joint connection that I bought.  Data on it said that the screw threads were 3/16-32.  Taint's so.  It's #10-32, which is a common thread size.  I measured the diameter of the stock rod and it's .004" larger than the outside dimension of a #10-32 screw.  I am going to go ahead and thread this for the #10-32, it's a better connection than what I have now.

I haven't driven the car yet.  I don't quite have the dash back together after reinstalling my readjusted gas gauge.  Sometime this afternoon, I hope to be on the road again.

I've got my video started and should have that complete in a few days.

[ROKuberski]

Well, I took the car out for a 20 mile drive with no problems.  The system is still in the learn mode, but seems to be working pretty well.  It's even idling well with the a/c running

My recalibrated gas gauge also is working pretty well but not perfect.  I did notice that the new unit does not have a swing arm on the float long enough to reach both the top and bottom of the tank.  When I filled the tank, it shows just under full, in the garage when I had dumped 4 gallons in the tank, it still showed empty.  On my bench I set the gauge to match the sending unit at full and empty.  I did check the output of the aftermarket gauge power supply, dead nuts 5v, same voltage I used on my bench.

The picture shows the ball joint linkage I added.

Rich