REALLY REALLY bad day today.

RICH MUISE · 2019-06-30 20:45

Dropped it down and the oscillating went away. I think I read somewhere here not to do the lock to lock bleeding with the wheels hangind down. I forgot that, but that solved the problem. Took it out for 20 miles. Not much difference in the 2 1/2 turn vs. 3 turn. Only slightly less responsive, but I suspect may have a better road feel at 70-80 mph. Other than my one fitting dripping, no leaks, no overheating, quieter. Almost got my issues resolved. I'll take it out for 60 miles around the loop tomorrow after some more lock to lock bleeding. The hydroboost did get up to 131.

djfordmanjack · 2019-07-01 04:42

Hurrah, soon we'll be seeing beautiful Texan scenery with your gorgeous Custom out in the wild ! congrats !

terry_208 · 2019-07-01 08:27

Just curious, are you using aluminum crush washers? If so, perhaps a change to nylon crush washers might stop the fluid leak.

RICH MUISE · 2019-07-01 13:22

It might.thanks for the suggestion. Yes, aluminum. But, I already ordered the o-ring style straight AN to metric adapters from Jegs, along with 90* AN fittings. These two are a real pain to get to, so I only want to do it once. The banjo fittings are nice, but what I'm ordering will work on either style I could end up with in the future.
A note on Cardone racks vs ACDelco. What I had on was a Cardone. The ACDelco I just got came with a mishaped/damaged outer hard fluid line. It wasn't shipping damage because it had two places that were hit with something hard and sharp, and there was no damage to the shipping box. The line was out of shape so bad, the mounting rubber collar and clamp were no where close to being able to fit on. No biggie, though, I just took that line off my removed rack and swaped them. I did notice when I took that line off the new "rebuilt" unit, the old oring was still on it....in pieces!
Took the car out for 80 miles or so. Mid 90's temperature. On the road, it held at 195, but stopping it would start to creep over 200, but this time the fan came on and kept it at 205, which is suppose to be the normal operating temperature. So,so far, it looks like all my issues are resolved except my leaky fittings. While I'm waiting for them, I'll see if I can get the switch and indicator light for the fan wired in.

RICH MUISE · 2019-07-03 09:55

Started the switch/light wiring with the diode yesterday. Got about 1/2 done when I was getting some bad continuity readings, so pulled it all out to refigure, only to discover I had used the wrong terminal on the switch, and had a faulty circuit tester. The spring that pushes against the batteries was broke, so everytime I held it upright, I'd get a bad reading because the batteries lost contact. Put all the grounding wiring as originally planned back in, fixed the circuit tester. When I get my butt going this morning, I'll see if it turns the fan on.

RICH MUISE · 2019-07-03 16:45

Man, am I feeling really dumb. As stated in the prior post, I'm trying to get the wiring done for the manual turn-on of the cooling fan. I've got everything hooked up and checked out with the continuity checker and all the splices, joints, etc. proved out. It doesn't work. After beating my head against the wall for a while, I have come to the conclusion that I have made a wrong assumption about my continuity checker. My household wiring continuity checker has a positive and negative identified probes on it, so I know which way the current is flowing. Under normal situations which way the current is flowing on a continuity checker wouldn't matter at all. But we all know most of the time, my situations somehow never end up being normal. Why does the direction of the current flow matter in my case? The diode. The normal penlight style tool I'm using has the probe on the battery/light case and a wire with aligator clamp I was assuming was ground.
Everything that's happening would indicate I installed the diode in the wrong direction. The only way that could be would happen if the current flow out the continuity checker is actually out the wire, and not the probe end as I had assumed. Any of you electrical gurus know?

The reason I'm thinking the diode is in backwards, contrary to what I had been thinking with the continuity checker, is if I run a jumper wire from the switch to the engine heat sensor, the switch will activate the fan. Moving that jumper wire down the line to just before the diode, it still works, confirming good joins to that point. Once I move the jumper past the diode, it stops working. The continuity checks tell me I have good joins at the diode (hard to do), so my next assumption as mentioned above, is the diode is in backwards and I've been misusing the continuity checker.

RICH MUISE · 2019-07-03 18:24

I've got a switched fan and indicator light. The diode was in backwards. Confirms what I later suspected about the direction of current flow on my continuity tester going thru the wire first.

oldave57 · 2019-07-03 20:48

Great news, Rich. Persistence really pays off!!

Dave

Ford Blue blood · 2019-07-04 06:37

Quote from: oldave57 on 2019-07-03 20:48
Great news, Rich. Persistence really pays off!!

Dave

Yup, been there, done that! After a little belly button pondering the light comes on....:<)

RICH MUISE · 2019-07-06 09:41

Got my rack fitting leak fixed, she's ready for a road trip. I've put 350 miles on the replacement engine. Now all I need to do is..............
get some money, lol.
Actually, my hood is still off. I'm pondering making some sheet metal stuff for the area between the grille/nosepiece and the core support to force more air thru the A/C condenser. Anybody done that?

lalessi1 · 2019-07-06 11:22

I have thought about doing that as well. There is not a lot of room between the radiator support and the hood (?), not sure about how effective that would be. I actually think a little work under and behind the radiator might be more effective. Curious about your results if you decide to do it.

RICH MUISE · 2019-07-06 12:11

What I was thinking for the "main panel" would be a sheet metal (ss or alum?) panel attached to the top of the core support going forward and attaching to the backside of the nosepiece. Visualize a strip cut from the front of another hood's skin. Then I'd need to figure if that would be enough or if I needed something to enclose the edges of the condenser. That would be really intricate I would think for it to look right. Lots of visability there thru the grille, so would be very time consuming to do it up pretty.
That would help to direct the air flow thru the condenser. A car guy I talked to locally here thinks that's why my A/C isn't as cold as it is.
On the other hand, my engine generates tons of heat externally, and I'm not sure I want to block off that air that does go between the core support and the hood. I'm sure that air helps to flush out the engine compartment heat, which in turn keeps the need for A/C minimized. seems like there's lots of pros and cons.
BTW, speaking of having no hood right now.....I'm thinking maybe that's the reason this engine is running about 5-10 degrees hotter than my previous engine. With the hood off, there probably is less air going thru the radiator to cool the coolant since it has an easier escape route. No hood probably keeps the motor cooler externally, but not the case internally.

Tom S · 2019-07-06 22:09

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2019-07-06 12:11...BTW, speaking of having no hood right now.....

No hood? Ha! That reminded me of something I hadn't thought of in years.
June of 1967 I was in the service & our squadron had just come back from "Beautiful Southeast Asia". I took leave, came home & and got married.
Our old airplanes were being phased out by the Navy & our squadron was to move from North Island/San Deigo to Moffet Field, about 10 miles up 101 from San Jose/Santa Clara. We were gonna get trained into our fancy new & different planes before our next deployment.
I now had a wife coming down soon & needed a car. I had next to no money. Bought a real cheap POS early Falcon from from some kinda sketchy lookin' auto repair shop. It had no hood.
At last I took off on the way north. It was hot. Real hot!
I couldn't figure out why the vents weren't letting in any air since they were clearly open. I roasted for the 450 miles or so to Salinas where I stopped to eat. The cafe was right next to a wrecking yard & I found a hood. Same color & cheap too! Put the hood on right there. The below windshield vents now worked!

I tried but I don't think I was ever able to get that Falcon registered in my name. Californias DMV rules were a lot different than the ones in Alaska. : (
"Where has this car been in the last xx months?"
Huh?

The Falcon blew up one night on the freeway on my drive from San Jose to Moffet. Got it back to our apartment somehow & parked it on the street. I got lucky & found a big black '62 Galaxie with a 406 & 4 speed for a real good price & one day the Falcon was just gone.
Sorry for the off topic hijack, Rich & all.

That '62 was a great car, I did not register it in California!

Still have it's plates.

djfordmanjack · 2019-07-07 03:03

great story Tom !

hiball3985 · 2019-07-07 06:55

I don't know about hood vs no hood, I ran without a hood for the first week after I installed the new engine and didn't notice any temp difference between the two. I remember when I installed an aftermarket AC in my truck there was a note about a critical dimension between the condenser and radiator. I can't remember exactly what is was but I think it was close, like not more then a 1/4 inch or the air flow to the radiator gets upset?

News:

REALLY REALLY bad day today.