Windshield Leak

[fdlrc]

I've searched the archives and learned many different opinions, pro and con, whether to use windshield non-hardening glazing/bedding compound. But this subject was several years ago, the best I can tell.
 
I saw in the 57 illustration; it shows compound in pinch weld channel and the glass channel. My glass installer didn't use sealer at all. Well, it leaks, front and rear glass. I know it leaks through the glass channel, easy to see; I don't know if it leaks around the pinch weld, but I doubt it.
 
I'll need remove and redo the windshield as the center of the trim is off set 1/2" toward the passenger side. I'm wondering if I should run a bead in the glass channel, place seal around glass, then use cord method to install? Wondering how to get compound in the pinch weld channel as I install with cord?

I think I can leave the rear glass in-place, spread the seal with a paddle and run a bead around. I won't use urethane to glue it in, but I can't have it leak either.

Gosh, I hate to re-post a question, but I know opinions may have changed since you guys now have a few miles on your rides.

[RICH MUISE]

I need to redo my windshield also. It didn't leak for over a year, then started getting worse and worse. As far as I know it's in one spot directly in front of the driver at the top. I can also see in that spot where whatever I used (?) between the glass and the seal is oozing out. I've tried to find my old posts when I was doing it with no luck so far. Whatever I used was recommended here and by a local glass guy. With that said, I really don't know if it's leaking between the glass and seal, or seal and weld flange. I do remember what I used between the seal and flange. It was 3m strip caulk. I didn't want to use a caulking type sealer, particularly in the back window where the seal goes over the headliner.
I know some install the glass dry, and I considered it, but after looking at the weld flange areas front and back, I realized there was no way to get a watertight seal there with just the rubber......too many dips and waves in the flange that the rubber wasn't going to get into.
As far as installing with the rope method, I don't know any other way, whether there.s caulking or not. I'm sure you know the seal has to be installed with the stainless in place on the glass, and then that glass/seal/trim assembly installed as a package.
As far as the center trim piece being off center, it's just a clip that snaps on over the seam........unlike the main pieces, it can be moved back and forth, probably enough to center and also cover the seam.
The tough part is going to be removing the glass/seal/trim without damaging the leg on the seal that has been pulled over the flange. Usually removal is just cutting that inside leg off.

[57imposter]

I need to redo my windshield also. It didn't leak for over a year, then started getting worse and worse. As far as I know it's in one spot directly in front of the driver at the top. I can also see in that spot where whatever I used (?) between the glass and the seal is oozing out. I've tried to find my old posts when I was doing it with no luck so far. Whatever I used was recommended here and by a local glass guy. With that said, I really don't know if it's leaking between the glass and seal, or seal and weld flange. I do remember what I used between the seal and flange. It was 3m strip caulk. I didn't want to use a caulking type sealer, particularly in the back window where the seal goes over the headliner.
I know some install the glass dry, and I considered it, but after looking at the weld flange areas front and back, I realized there was no way to get a watertight seal there with just the rubber......too many dips and waves in the flange that the rubber wasn't going to get into.
As far as installing with the rope method, I don't know any other way, whether there.s caulking or not. I'm sure you know the seal has to be installed with the stainless in place on the glass, and then that glass/seal/trim assembly installed as a package.
As far as the center trim piece being off center, it's just a clip that snaps on over the seam........unlike the main pieces, it can be moved back and forth, probably enough to center and also cover the seam.
The tough part is going to be removing the glass/seal/trim without damaging the leg on the seal that has been pulled over the flange. Usually removal is just cutting that inside leg off.
[/quot

We may be seeing the start of a windshield leak pandemic! Mine has also decided to leak right in front of the driver. Im thinking it could be getting into the seal anywhere and just running until it finds someplace to leak inside. If we ever get back to normal, I will take it back to the guys who installed it and just have the whole thing resealed.

[Lgcustom]

I've been hesitating to comment because I can't remember the sealer I used! You need to get a non-hardening sealer and insert a tip between glass and seal and also body to seal. That's how it was done in the factory in the 70's.

[fdlrc]

It's this 3M non-hardening stuff. #08509

Rich, it's more than shifting the center piece over. The whole piece needs to shift to align screw holes and curve.

[RICH MUISE]

I've been hesitating to comment because I can't remember the sealer I used! You need to get a non-hardening sealer and insert a tip between glass and seal and also body to seal. That's how it was done in the factory in the 70's.

You can probably get a cartridge tip in between the glass and seal, but not between the seal and body, unless you've deleted the Stainless (like Gary did)....at least on mine up under the raingutter. I am going to try getting some sealer in where I can, just haven't done it yet.
Doug.....I agree, it's kinda like a leak on your house roof........where it's coming thru the ceiling isn't usually under where it's getting in thru the roof.
Les.....when you get there, if you're having a hard time getting the seal to "sit down" against the glass at the corners while the caulking is setting up, a few drops of Gorilla Gel super glue between rubber and glass will hold it down.

[fdlrc]

My seal is in place and it conforms to the glass nicely. This 3M compound stays pliable and doesn't set up. I've not installed before, but from what I've read it seals but does't glue. This tube I took a picture of is probably 10 years old, unopened, and I can still squeeze the sides in. I won't use it however, I'll get at fresh tube.

[Tom S]

It's this 3M non-hardening stuff. #08509

Yes! You made me look again. That 3M #08509 is the same stuff that was recommended to me by a pro. I'd have mentioned it before but couldn't find the old half used tube of it that I have until just now.

[Ford Blue blood]

One of the things I have noticed when doing these cars is the poor finish at the pinch weld.  The 65 Bird, the 58 Edsel and this Ranchero all had major flaws that would prevent the gasket from ever sealing.  The Edsel had a huge glob of lead on the lower portion at the quarter/rear panel joint, the Bird and the Ranchero both had "kinks" in the pinch weld itself. 

The Edsel does not leak, the Bird has shown no signs as of yet but it has only been exposed to one wet drive and baths.  The Ranchero has only had one bath and no water went in where it wasn't supposed to.  Time will tell.....

[oldave57]

I have an installation question for those of you who have replaced the windshields in 57's.  The Ford shop manual shows the old windshield being removed by tipping out the top of the windshield first (I assume you should also cut the weather strip seal but the shop manual doesn't mention this).  The manual then states that you should install the new windshield by overlapping the draw cord in the weatherstrip by 18 inches at the top, then starting at the top to work the draw cord out of the weatherstrip to set the windshield, and work your way around to the bottom.  Most of the youtube videos I've seen on the subject install the windshields starting at the bottom and finishing at the top.  Did you install your windshields starting at the top or bottom of the windshields?

Regarding sealer, the manual states that a heavy bead of sealer be applied all around the pinch weld, then sealer applied between the glass and weatherstrip after the windshield is installed in the opening. 

Thanks for any information,
Dave

[Ford Blue blood]

Windshield in both the Edsel and the Ranchero went in per the manual.  Roped in from the top with helpers pushing up on the windshield.  As we came to the "curve" down the side the windshield kind of self set and pulling the cord around the bottom of the side was as smooth as silk.  Pulling the rest of the bottom was easy and then some stern slaps and pushes they both set down tight.  I was surprised how smoothly it went.  No sealer was used, both set outside in the sun for a day. 

[RICH MUISE]

I installed mine by setting the bottom of the glass/seal onto the pinchweld first. At that point you need to check very carefully to make sure the glass is centered properly in the opening. You do not want to put pressure on the sides/curvature  of the glass to center it over the pinchweld, or you will break the glass. I don't remember where I had the rope ends overlapping.......probably the bottom. Probably doesn't make a whole lot of difference, but my thinking is to continue where it was set in at the bottom, rather than starting a whole new area. Lots of soapy water in a spray bottle to keep the seal lubed as your pulling it in. It could get messy inside from all the soap and water lube dripping inside, so if your dash is installed, cover it with towels
You definetly need someone on the outside keeping pressure on the glass in areas where you're pulling the seal over the pinchweld. I think I went side to side a little at a time, and had my wife watch where I was pulling the rope thru so she would know where to put pressure.

Yes, my pinchweld flange was not a pretty thing at all, lots of ripples, dips, and cavaties. Prior to prime and paint, I spent some time filling those with filler and getting the flange much smoother so the seal/caulking would have a better chance of sealing. I also removed what were pretty large burrs on the edges of he flange so the seal would get hung up or torn/damaged by the burrs.

[oldave57]

Thanks for your replies.  It kind of sounds like the draw cord could be overlapped at either the top or bottom and windshield could be pulled in by finishing at either the top or the bottom.  It kind of seems that the weight of the windshield would be helping you more if you started at the bottom because it would already be sitting there on the pinch weld when you place the windshield in the opening.

I haven't ordered the glass yet (plan to get it from Auto City Classics) and it looks like Auto City does not have the rubber seal for the windshield (not sure why) so will have to go to someone like Macs Auto Parts for the rubber seal.  The car is a 57 Skyliner, so the top will be down when the windshield is installed which should be a bit easier with access from the inside while pulling it in.  I talked to a local glass installer who said he would do the work, but would require me to order the parts and bring them with me to his location.  He also said that if the glass was broken during install (either by him or me), I would be responsible, so I'm thinking I might be better off to give it a go myself, especially since I have to remove a lot of interior trim and probably wiper shaft bezels before the install.

Thanks for your help,
Dave

[RICH MUISE]

" It kind of seems that the weight of the windshield would be helping you more if you started at the bottom because it would already be sitting there on the pinch weld when you place the windshield in the opening."
exactly.
I think you'd be hard pressed to find someone to install, labor only cost, and be responsible for breakage.

[Ecode70D]

   
    If I'm installing a headliner also, I install it first before installing the front and back glass.  Roof bows are color coded.

    After installing the rope I keep the ends overlapped .  I set the lower section in place first and work my way around it until I get the rope out and it is in place.    Cant tell you how many I have done over the years.  It has been a bunch of them..

      Most of the time I do it alone and have never broken one yet.

       This is what works for me.

      .