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[lslevin]

Well I think we finally have it dialed in.  Yesterday our testing effort was cut short due to a heavy rain storm that lasted several hours.  This morning we have tweaked and checked all of the great ideas you all suggested an I have my fingers crossed.  It still idles a bit too high for my liking but we are happy for now. 

[lslevin]

I would like to clarify with Jim about the carb spacer.  Yes, our car does havve about a 1/2-3/4" spacer.  But are you saying your spacer is 1.5" high?  I would like to take a look at your theory about the high idle.  It does make sense about the hole diameters an I could see how that would impede proper idle adjustment.

Regarding the compressor, for now we are going to keep it.  The heater core on the car is leaking badly so at some point we are going to need to address the HVAC system.  Core is bypassed now.  We are not sure whether we want to try to restore the original factory parts or just go with a new Vintage air system? Thanks again to all for the help.  We are going to move onto a couple of other things so we will be back on the forum with updates.  Larry and Lynn

[Ford Blue blood]

The original factory AC is virtuously price less.  Especially is you have the little tag that goes on the door.  You can sell it for the price of an entire Vintage Air system and then some!

All the components that make up the system from the mount that holds the compressor and generator to the pulleys  are gold to a restorer.  The under dash unit is exclusive to the factory AC as is the dash temp controller and the windshield trim.

If you are not interested in a perfectly "restored" car carefully remove all the AC stuff and put it out there.  It will be snapped up yesterday!  I sold a complete factory AC system taken out of a rusted in half 300 (same system as your 500) and paid for my Ranchero and over half the replacement sheet metal from EMS.

[hiball3985]

Hi Larry,
If you have a carb spacer you shouldn't have a problem. The interference problem occurs when people bolt the carb directly to the manifold. My spacer is 1/2" thickness, the four holes are 1.5" so it matches the manifold and the carb venturi size. If you remove your carb some day you will see the spacer holes are bigger then the manifold holes, this leaves a mismatch between the two but that won't cause a problem that you are having. Some people machine the manifold holes to the larger size to match the spacer/carb venturi size, mostly on hipo engines and not really necessary on a street motor.
Good suggestion made about the choke setting by FDLRC. Have you tried disconnecting the trottle linkage from the carb, maybe something hanging up or out of adjustment?

[lslevin]

It was a good suggestion!!!  It is free and clear once the chole comes off.  Good thoughts about the AC system.  I figured it would be worth a bit but not like you said!!  We will definitely make it available if we decided not to use it.

[djfordmanjack]

great info about the throttle interference, Jim !
I will have to watch that as well, as I will be using the 1403 Edelbrock (Carter) on an og 312 intake.

Larry, concerning the heater . the problem most likely isnt the heater core ( which is readily available as a repro), but the adjacent thermostatic heater valve. it is a water valve that is actuated by a vaccuum powered thermostatic valve, which in turn is actuated by the dash knob. so it is kind of self adjusting temperature control. there are several potential leaking spots in the system, most of all a oval shaped rubber gasket between the heater core and water valve, which is prone to leaking. there are reproductions of the seal, water valve and thermostatic unit, and you frequently can find them NORS on ebay, also a Mercury valve might fit. here are some pics so you know what we are talking about.
I used parts of the riginal and parts of a halfways faulty NORS unit, welded together and working.

BTW a vaccuum leak at the heater valve could also cause your errant idle.

the heater is quite servicable, so no reason to throw it out.

[lslevin]

Gunther, thank you that is a great piece of information!!!  Please see the attached photos of the heater box and blower motor in the car.  At this point I am not prepared to tear into these areas.  In fact, I can not see the termination point of the heater hoses or the valve system you show.  When we are ready, this information will help a lot.  In the meantime is the heater valve accessed through the firewall or under the dash?

Regarding the vacuum leak potential I did figure on that possibility and have disconnected the HVAC vacuum system and plugged the port on the manifold for now.

Do you and Jim believe that a smaller carb will work better on the stock 312 engine?  If I need to get a new carb, I would like to have something that supports the application.  It sounds like you guys believe in the small CFM?  Thanks  Larry and Lynn

[lslevin]

Sorry having trouble with files

[Contibob]

I asked about the compressor because I have a 57 Country squire with Factory AC. ( sold new here in San Diego) All of the under dash stuff is there, but missing compressor.

[djfordmanjack]

Larry I believe your pics are too large for attaching. you either need to downsize the files or use an upload site like imgur. Joe wrote a tutorial on that here:
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=7624.0

Concerning the heater, I forgot to mention there are 2 different heaters. one is a factory install ( like the one I posted, and yes it is accessed from the passenger side under dash. you can unbolt the heater housing cover and will get access to the valve).

there is a second, different heater system that was a dealer install. it also has a different dash switch. actually looking at your firewall I believe it looks like this second dealer install. or maybe because yours is an og factory A/C car. I am sure some of the guys have this on their cars and they will be able to answer your questions.

[sprink88]

NICE!!! Welcome from Minnesota!

[hiball3985]

Just my opinion but I feel most people over carb. Unless you plan on driving at 5000 rpm and 100+ mph you don't need a big CFM carb. Stock Y block volumetric efficiency isn't that great, I forget the numbers but it shown at best it can only use somewhere around 400 CFM. I like the smaller carbs, better low end torque and response. It all depends on what you are going to use the car for, I assume it will be a cruiser and not a racer. My Y block preforms just great with the 390 CFM with the normal driving I do up to 70 mph. Under normal driving the secondaries never open, only when I really stick my foot in it do they open. A few occasions I've run it up to 95 but my lower gearing holds it back from going faster.
No carb is going to be tuned exactly to your engine out of the box, there are to many variables. When I first installed mine it had a very slight miss at cruising speed and required going up one main jet size, easy to do on a Holley. I've good reports from people using the new Summit carbs, just another option.
My engine is a 292, if it was a 312 like yours I would probably use a 465 CFM..

[lslevin]

Trying again

[lslevin]

Gunther I have loaded the blower motor (under hood) photo.  I believe this is what you  are describing as #2 in your post.  Thanks for the info.

Regarding carb size I agree with using the smaller cfm.  We have no desire to do anything but drive this car normally as a cruiser. So, I may downsize.  I want to try a "tune up" as suggested.  We have no idea how long it has been or the condition of points, spark plugs, etc. Can't hurt. 

Again we appreciate all the positive comments and advice.  Getting there is half the fun...at least that is what I keep telling myself!!!!  Ha Ha.

[SkylinerRon]

There are three different heaters in 57. With the factory a/c ALL the heater parts are different.  If you are not going to use the factory a/c I would buy a complete non a/c heater for it.

You have to pull the housing to change the heater core, the a/c heater core is different and very hard to find. Probably could be recored by a good radiator shop.

The factory a/c cars have a long, long list of different parts than non a/c cars from engine pulleys to dash parts, just so you know if you have to change anything.

Carpenter's sells all the rubber seals for a/c-heater systems, I'd change them while it is apart.

I researched the a/c for my car a few years ago since I had not even seen a factory a/c 57 until, like you I bought one!

Good luck,

Ron B.