weather strip adhesive

[alvin stadel]

I have a ? for you, what do you use for weather strip adhesive?  I have used 3M for years with no problem, however now I have a big problem. This is on my Black Cloud RHT that I'm restoring. A lot of the door weather stirp  is coming off, the adhesive is sticking to the metal  but not the rubber. I always clean both metal and rubber before installation, I visited with a body shop guy here and he thinks it is probably the rubber.  I got the door seal kit from Dennis Carpenter, as I have in the past, May be this is some more offshore crap. I hate to have to pull it all off but that might be what I need to do.

[RICH MUISE]

I've been told that molded rubber seals have mold release agent still on the surface of the seals. That agent needs to be cleaned off the seals thoroughly before attaching. I use laquer thinner to soak a rag if I remember correctly...possibly wax and grease remover. I see you noted you clean the rubber before assembly, so possibly not thorough enough? Do you apply the adhesive to both the seal and the car? If I remember correctly, the 3m black stuff is a contact adhesive so needs it on both surfaces.

[John Palmer]

I've been told that molded rubber seals have mold release agent still on the surface of the seals. That agent needs to be cleaned off the seals thoroughly before attaching. I use laquer thinner to soak a rag if I remember correctly...possibly wax and grease remover. I see you noted you clean the rubber before assembly, so possibly not thorough enough? Do you apply the adhesive to both the seal and the car? If I remember correctly, the 3m black stuff is a contact adhesive so needs it on both surfaces.

I agree with everything Rich stated.  I would add, let the rubber strip dry completely before you glue it.  I use Acetone for the cleaner.  You have a small window of when to apply depending on the ambient temperature.  If you apply while it's still wet/damp it will not stick.  If you "wait too long" and it's completely dry, it will not stick.  The 3M stuff is the best product, but it's still a PITA to be neat and get it all stuck securely down.  I've done the passenger lower door seal on my early Bronco, and I have put off doing the driver side because it's time consuming job. 

Sorry, I have no tricks to make it fast and easy.

John

[alvin stadel]

Yes Rich, I cleaned everything in lacquer thinner, and did put adhesive on both door and rubber. Maybe didn't let it set up long enough, I'v never had this happen before.  The deck lid seals and other seals are all OK, and I used the dame process on them.

[Ford Blue blood]

I've had the same issue with Carpenter hard/firm rubber seals.  The soft seals stay down very well, none have lifted after being on for several years.  The hard/firm rubber is a different story.  Almost within days it comes loose.  The only "fix" I have found is to scuff the surface with sand paper.  I use 80 grit D/A paper to do it.

I use Weldwood contact cement for all my seals.  Easy to use, much less messy then "yellow death", I use the little acid brushes to apply with great control.

[John Palmer]

Contact cement is a good idea. 

Caution.........if you use Weldwood brand..........make certain to only use the solvent based product that comes in their red can.  The water based stuff that comes in the green can does not work.  In California they pulled the red can solvent based contact cement some time ago.  At least the stuff that is sold over the counter at retail.  The water based stuff will not even hold down Formica to plywood.

John

[CobraJoe]

I have used the 3M stuff also with good results, as said, it can be a little messy. This stuff cleans it up  pretty easily and I have even used it when gluing down carpets; you can spray both sides of a seam area and glue it down and this stuff takes it right off of the rug, makes it a lot easier to get a good seam when you know you don't have to be careful with the the adhesive.