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crossmember

Started by nitro3847, 2020-10-31 18:50

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nitro3847

Is it possible to pull 292 engine and 3 speed trans from a 57 without pulling the crossmember

SkylinerRon

Yes but, you will have to tilt the engine quite a bit to clear the core support.
A spare trans yoke or some type of filler and plug the speedo cable hole.

Ron.

RICH MUISE

#2
Not really sure what your asking, unless you're talking about the tranny crossmember, which is a few bolts and a tap with a hammer to move it backwards to loosen it. Doing that will allow the engine/assembly to be dropped in the back sooner.
The front crossmember is welded in. The core support, which Ron talked about ain't coming out without removing fenders, etc.
Last year I tried to pull the (short) 4.6 dohc out of my avatar with the 4R70W attached. Wasn't happening without a high overhead block and tackle because the cherry picker wasn't near enough to lift the engine with tranny high enough to clear when everything's at that drastic angle.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

gasman826

I have not tried to remove the engine and transmission as a unit without removing the transmission crossmember.  But, I don't think the unit will move forward far enough for the transmission tailshaft to clear the crossmember so it will drop down.  I've removed hundreds of engine/transmissions but never without removing the crossmember.  It would be more work to fight the crossmember than it would be to just remove it. 

'57s are a little tighter than many other models.  Working with a hoist, I have found it much easier to remove the transmission and then the engine.  Like Rich said, a cherry picker will be max'ed out height and safety wise.  I R&R my engines separate and over the side without removing the hood.

59meteor

Between the very real possibility of the transmission crossmember bolts either breaking off, or stripping the threads in the frame, not to mention the PITA trying to pry the crossmember back in position to reinstall the bolts, I try to avoid removing the trans crossmember if possible. That said, I prefer to remove the engine by itself first, and then the transmission if the front sheetmetal is intact. Of course removing the front nose is fairly simple, and frees up enough room to pull the engine and trans easily without touching the crossmember.
1959 Meteor 2 door sedan , 428 Cobra Jet 4 speed. Been drag racing Fords (mostly FEs) 47 years and counting.
Previous 50s Fords include 57 Custom 4 door, 2 57 Ford Sedan Deliveries, 59  Country Sedan, and as a 9 year old, fell in love with the family 58 2 door Ranch Wagon.

gasman826

I understand the 'breaking bolt' thing and getting the crossmember holes aligned.  It seemed all the '57s I worked on had at least one broken bolt so I needed to remove the crossmember to make the repair.

FYI but not to argue with Rich...  The Raunch Wagon core support was ate up from battery acid.  I R&R the core support without removing the inner or outer fenders much easier than I expected.


terry_208

Quote from: gasman826 on 2020-11-01 08:30
I R&R my engines separate and over the side without removing the hood.

I never tried that bc I didn't think it would clear.  This is good news. Now I know. 
Terry

rmk57

  You can also raise the rear of the car up as high as your floor jack can go. That gives a bit more clearance and better angle of attack for removal / install with a cherry picker.
Randy

1957 Ford Custom
1970 Boss 429

RICH MUISE

"I R&R the core support without removing the inner or outer fenders much easier than I expected."...............to be honest, I never really tried it, just something I read. Maybe on another forum on a different year Ford. Good to know. I'll look at that vs removing the grille when I get to moving the condenser closer to closer to the fan.
Thanks Gary. I don't argue with you. I just listen, lol.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

lalessi1

I have removed the core support as well without removing the fenders. My crossmember is not original to the frame so it is not as easy to reinstall as I would like. It seems that an OEM "new" crossmember would have come from the factory with loose ends so it could be matched to the frame. I chased the threads and used stainless bolts and I pull mine in place with a tiedown strap wrapped around the swaybar I have always pulled the engine without the tranny, it is  easier and safer in my mind.
Lynn

SkylinerRon

I made a 10 ft tall A frame with 4 removable legs about 45 yrs ago. Plenty of height, no need to remove any other pieces.

Just tilt the engine/trans, crank it up and push the car back 6-8 ft. I'd bet it has pulled 100+engines, most every car guy in the area has borrowed it.

Ron.