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Plug wire routing question

Started by dungbeetle07, 2021-01-09 16:59

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dungbeetle07

Neighbors....57 Fairlane 272.  I'm having a hard time finding plug wires long enough for what I thought was the correct routing.  Do all of the wires run directly to the side and then under the exhaust?  #5 is the rascally one.
Thanks!

KULTULZ

There are aftermarket kits ($$$) that come complete for a FYB completely assembled. You just bolt and plug.

Interested? I will post source if needed.

I started making mine off a roll years ago as correct quality replacements are hard to find for about anything. One fits all ...  :sad8:
MEL DIVISION - 1958-1960

MERCURY - EDSEL - LINCOLN

Ford Blue blood

The wires run past the rear of the block and under the exhaust manifolds.  They are bundled with brackets and rubber insulators to keep them under control.

All available from many of the vendors listed.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

KULTULZ

MEL DIVISION - 1958-1960

MERCURY - EDSEL - LINCOLN

dungbeetle07

Thank you for the responses, and the PIC. 

I did find this set, along with the bracket kit.  Prob should've gone that route initially but was hoping to find wires long enough from a local supplier.  I am interested to see the aftermarket kits ($$$), if you don't care to share the link.  When you say you started making them off of a roll, are you cutting custom lengths and adding your own boots-n-posts?

https://www.dearbornclassics.com/spark-plug-wires-set-fairlane-full-size-mercury-thunderbird-truck-1955-57.html


SkylinerRon

The correct wiring set will have a brown coil wire and black sparkplug ends with the Ford crest style logo molded in.

The original wires are solid core, the brown one is for radio suppression.

You can buy them w/o the Ford crest cheaper because Ford gets a royality for the crest.

Later Buick V8 wires are a cheap out.

Good luck,

Ron.

KULTULZ

#6
QuoteWhen you say you started making them off of a roll, are you cutting custom lengths and adding your own boots-n-posts?

Correct. You can buy sets either supposed correct length or without plug ends attached, your cutting to length and crimping boots. Or you can buy the wire(s) on a spool and make your own with boots and clips of your choosing. There are so many wire choices now you have to know where you are going.

It all comes down to how you are repairing the car and what end result you desire, i.e. driver, HP street, competition or restoration.

When FORD offered sets, they were usually cut to fit more than one engine series and some would fit OK and on another engine would look like death. You can pick these sets out as where the third character in the PN PREFIX would be P (AUTOLITE-MOTORCRAFT) instead of engine model specific.

FORD D6PZ 12259-BA - KIT

https://www.classictbird.com/Ignition-System/products/45/

MEL DIVISION - 1958-1960

MERCURY - EDSEL - LINCOLN

hiball3985

I run mine with the bracket flipped up so the wires aren't against/behind the back of the block like the blue block engine in the picture.
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

dungbeetle07

I'm looking a stock driver set up.  The last time I used the Accel super stock one-size-all which came with sparkplug end already attached.  They were not long enough; plus sliding the cap boots over the wires was all the fun I wanted.  I'll see how this set I ordered fromworks before considering making my own.  Thanks!

djfordmanjack

what is your reasoning, Jim? heat? Accessibility close to firewall? gas linkage clearance?

Quote from: hiball3985 on 2021-01-11 07:59
I run mine with the bracket flipped up so the wires aren't against/behind the back of the block like the blue block engine in the picture.

KULTULZ

#10
Quote from: dungbeetle07 on 2021-01-12 14:31

I'm looking a stock driver set up.  The last time I used the Accel super stock one-size-all which came with sparkplug end already attached.  They were not long enough; plus sliding the cap boots over the wires was all the fun I wanted.  I'll see how this set I ordered fromworks before considering making my own.

Thanks!

Now don't forget also that the OEM insulators were made for original
7MM wires.

How much are you willing to spend for a set of QUALITY wires?
MEL DIVISION - 1958-1960

MERCURY - EDSEL - LINCOLN

hiball3985

Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2021-01-12 14:41
what is your reasoning, Jim? heat? Accessibility close to firewall? gas linkage clearance?
I think it is just an old habit from back in the day when oil leaks at the valley cover would coat them and they are easier to trace if needed and the heat.
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

djfordmanjack

thx Jim, I forgot about the usual valley cover corner leak....I can already hear it calling my name. outside, from the garage... :003:

hiball3985

Quote from: djfordmanjack on 2021-01-12 16:09
thx Jim, I forgot about the usual valley cover corner leak....I can already hear it calling my name. outside, from the garage... :003:
The last two engines I built, the one in the car and the new one on the stand I drilled and tapped eight perimeter holes and used allen head type bolts.
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

djfordmanjack

great idea ! nobody will see them down there !