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1957 country sedan build

Started by 1930artdeco, 2021-03-21 00:57

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1930artdeco

Hi Rich,

Do happen to have a pic of the tool. I just want to see how it is used to get the bushings out with the shaft still in place. I think I know how to put it together though.

Thanks,

Mike
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

RICH MUISE

I'll check my build thread, but I don't think so.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

1930artdeco

Tomorrow I am going to have a go at the lower control arms, I have been soaking them with either kroil or WD40 every so often so I am hoping that they are thoroughly soaked by then. Are these arms good to go where the spring sits? It looks like they got a little banged up as there is a lip where the shock sits inboard. I also discovered that I am pulling the original suspension apart as the rivets that hold the upper ball joints are there and have a waffle pattern.

Second question is this, do I have the inner sleeve still left on the idler arm? If so, how do I get it off of the stud, cut, heat, twist, what? I ordered a spare spindle and two visor brackets from the yard in 29 Palms (forget the gentleman's name) But he sent me a great looking left spindle that was even blasted!

Thank you,

Mike
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

1930artdeco

Ok, got the lower arms out-quite easily actually. So now I am scared that something is wrong :003:. Got the arms out and noticed that one of the bushing cases is ripped and then I noticed that the arm has a tear where the bushing goes. Is this weldable or should I just get another arm?

Mike
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

mustang6984

Aggravation vs. cost... :icon_shaking:...I think I'd buy another one. Just me...some things aren't worth the annoyance.
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

hiball3985

I would find another and scarp that one.
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

RICH MUISE

#126
I agree. For me I'd be forever wondering what caused the tear and if it distorted/twisted the arm in a manner that would be hard to detect.
BTW, at least when I did mine, someone was remaking the lower pins. Maybe Classic Auto Parts in OKC?
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

1930artdeco

Yep, I think a new arm is in order. The pins are actually in great shape so I can reuse them if I can. Just need new sleeves.

Mike
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

djfordmanjack

#128
Mike, go back to the pics I posted and study the A arms pictured.

http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=8663.msg85106#msg85106

What you are looking at the cracked tubing on your A arm, its not the actual A arm but just the bushing housing sleeve, that comes as a replacement WITH new bushings.
You will have to press or cut those out anyways, to be able to press in replacements. you will never be able to get the press fit rubbers in there if you disassembled new ones.

the smaller v shaped ridge in the actual A arm does not seem to have moved in decades and might as well be part of the production process and stamp forming. I would not worry about it at all. sure, weld it up and file it down. jmho.

Lgcustom

I agree with Guenter. The large crack is in the sleeve that will be removed to make way for the new bushing. The small crack in the a-arm body is of little importance.

RICH MUISE

They are correct........can't believe I missed that.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

hiball3985

Good catch guys, I totally looked at the picture incorrectly  :005:
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

1930artdeco

Thanks Guenter, I will see about having one of the guys in my fab shop weld it up for me. Here is a better pic though since the first one was pretty dirty.

I got one shaft out of the upper arm (the worst of the two) and after a wire wheel it looks pretty good. Do I need to worry about using my micrometer? So I think I am going to just buy new bushings and reassemble.

Mike
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

djfordmanjack

#133
Mike, now we can see that crack in the actual A arm. Still nothing to worry about imo. pro guys at the fab shop will probably clean it thoroughly and Tig it back together without even a need to dress any welds. it may be a good idea to provide them with a new replacement bushing, so they can arrange the crack and collar for a nice press fit.

The shaft looks good. it appears the original machining is still visible on the ends. again, clean the rust off thoroughly and just test fit a new bushing on it. the inner bushing sleeves will be fastened and compressed by the 2x outer hex bolts, so no need for a press fit here.

The reason for the cracked lower A arm might be loose shafts in the frame. inspect those areas closely on the front and engine crossmembers. there are some reinforcement brackets welded to the crossmembers and those welds might have broken loose from an impact, sloppy factory welding or simply decades of abuse. I had to reweld several of these on my Del Rio frame.

1930artdeco

That is good to know Guenter. I just ordered bushings and one of the guys in my fab shop said he would weld it up and maybe press the bushings in. I will check the frame for any damage from collisions. The bolts came out fairly easily with little to no rust. Here is to hoping. I did notice some extra plates welded onto the round cross member.

I also had some squared spacers come off of the front bolts. I assume those are for alignment purposes. Or just spacers. But I kept them just the same.

Mike
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan