1957 country sedan build

[1930artdeco]

Here is the lower arm, how do these bushings look?

I am almost ready-need a gauge-to do my compression check. I am going to hook up the battery this way:
Negative grounded to the block
Positive to the starter relay
Starter to relay
Relay is bolted to the intake

Sound good?

Mike

[Rancher]

Wiring sounds good.
Don't be too critical of compression test results if the engine's been in waiting. An obviously dead hole, yes, a worry. Otherwise valve and ring sealing may not be up to par until after some run time.

Before letting the starter rip, turn crank two full turns by hand to make sure everything is clear.

[mustang6984]

Wouldn't relay be better on the inner fender on passenger side like from factory? Less heat...longer life. Just thinking out loud here...

[Rancher]

I believe it's just  temporary wiring for taking compression test while engine is hanging by a chain.

Actually could skip the relay all together if there's a decent expendable "arc pad" to make contact with. An overlength bolt?

[mustang6984]

Ah...yea...okay...test fire. I thought it was already in car for the fire off.

[1930artdeco]

Yep the wiring is just temporary. I just want to get a feel for what the compression is, and you are correct Rancher it may come up as things seat back in. But at least I will have a starting point. And before I crank her over this weekend I will oil the snot out of her valve train and pour some down the push rod holes as I don't want anything unlubbed to be grinding on anything else.

Mike

[mustang6984]

Might not be a bad idea to put a little in the cylinders as well if you are going to let it sit for a few days before firing. Just to give the cylinders a bit of slippery for the rings to avoid breaking one. Just a thought...it's what I do with a long sitting motor.

[1930artdeco]

Already did that with some 10-30, just a few squirts. But, I will do it again tomorrow as all it will do is just slide down the walls.

[mustang6984]

 

[hiball3985]

Take the rag off the intake carb opening, you need air to compress.

[1930artdeco]

Hiball, the engine sits outside right now so the rag is just there for rodent and debris control. It gets moved inside next week and put on a stand so I can check the bearings. Comp check tomorrow👍.

Mike

[1930artdeco]

Well couldn?t get the diff out as the nuts are frozen to the shackles and U bolts. But I managed to get the pinion gear out so I can change the seal. Great news! I drained the original oil out I think and it was red and not burnt smelling. Plus there is zero wear on the gear!

Mike

[1930artdeco]

So I did my first compression check on my engine that I got for my wagon. Here are the results-I ended up using an O-Reilly gauge as that is all had at the time. Opinions please (first test/second test):

1-100/110
2-0/0
3-50/50
4-45/35
5-40/15
6-50/0
7-40/0
8-30/0

The valves were adjusted to .020 cold per the book (used Tim McMasters method) and this gauge is the screw in type. I checked #2 with my grandfathers hand held gauge and it registered 30#. #1 it blew my hand off of the head so I could not verify the reading. I suspect the valves my be the cause so I rechecked and adj. a few on the drivers bank and here are the numbers:

5-40/40
6-20/20
7-45/50
8-30/30

It is possible that the valves are good but the guides/seals are bad. Maybe the rings? But all indications are that this engine has about 47K and never opened up. Sneaky suspicion the heads are going in.

Thanks,

Mike

[mustang6984]

I'd say the valve seals are shot. which is good...since that will be cheaper than replacing valves.

[Rancher]

#2 is a worry.
Maybe a valve stuck open?

Any chance of setting the engine up for a short run?
Even with garden hose cooling system.

Nothing like a bit of run time to limber things up.
And of course hearing it and seeing what the exhaust looks like.

Yah, and that rear main.