1957 country sedan build

[lalessi1]

It is a core filled thermostatic expansion style valve. That is what was on my car. I found a guy who can refurbish that style of valve and i think i have his info. These valves are factory but I don't know when the change was made and if the thermostatic valve replaced the vacuum type or it was the other way around. I tried to use the vacuum style but I didn't like the vacuum line.

[hiball3985]

That is also a nice heater valve, Jim. Is that a direct replacement? Never seen one like that before. It also appears to have some sort of mechanical bi metal or thermostatic ( core filled?) spring.

G, I'm not sure why some cars had this type, like Lynn said maybe a change somewhere along the line and I like having as few vacuum lines as possible. This type was on my original heater but had some leak issues. The one I have now I got from Jay and put it on a new heater and it works great.

[1930artdeco]

If I stay with the original set up what sealer are you using on the little gasket?

Mike

[djfordmanjack]

I am using Innotech Easy Gasket, but that most probably is not available in the US. it is a high temperature and gas/oil/coolant resistant black natural rubber compound. I have used this on nearly every engine and car related component possible with great results. works like a charm on coolant hoses, thermostat housings aso.

[RICH MUISE]

You mentioned coolant hoses.........do you use a sealant on them? Radiator hoses?

[abe_lugo]

Might as well try the permatex Right Stuff.  I been using this stuff a year or so and it works great.
Yeah it's a bit pricier.  But it you look up innotech stuff mentioned above the price is about the same. Also he is right that is from Europe only.

FYI in a pinch most of the heater housing gaskets are foam.  You might get away with checking out the foam seals section at Home Depot and making some some.  Just a thought.  I need to tackle this same heater project on my hardtop.

[1930artdeco]

Got some more things done to Betty today. Put some primer on the engine and intake, this will probably take the whole week and I will paint next week. Started running the fuel line as well. Had my heater core rebuilt and there was confusion-no big deal really. But he welded up the original heater valve-it is broken in the open position. So, I need to install the heater control valves in the engine compartment now. What is the best routing for a new cable and where is the best place to install it? I am thinking on the pass fender for both items.

Mike

[glr7533]

When I did my heater I used a core that fit a lot of ford cars and vans from the late 70's and early 80's. I mounted the valve on the passenger fender and ran the control cable thru an existing hole in the firewall that was left of the heater. I mounted the valve towards the back of the inner fender which was a mistake. It looks and fits good but puts to much of a bend in the operating cable which causes the cable to bind some if I have the heater wide open. If I did it again I would move the valve forward. I had to move one of the holes slightly for the new heater core nipple. The control cable was just a long choke cable that I cut to length. I am in Arizona for the winter so I can't get any pictures.
These are the CarQuest part numbers and the price from six years ago. The part numbers should be the same as Advance Auto.

399025     Heater core     $25.94
74627       Control valve   $19.99
55207       Cable              $9.46

[1930artdeco]

Thanks GLR,

where did you hook the cable up on the dash? Were you able to use the stock heater controls or did you have to use a different location?

Mike

[glr7533]

I used the stock heater control. The cable has a coiled loop on both ends that just slip over a stud and are held in place by a clamp. The part number for the cable I listed is for a choke cable. I cut the end off that has the  knob on it and put a coil on that end. I made the coil by clamping a steel rod in my vice and just wrapping the cable wire around it. I thing the steel rod was 3/16" but I am not sure of that. I would mount the cable to the heater control, feed the cable thru the firewall, have someone hold the cable in place where you think you want to route it and then operate the control to make sure there is no binding. I didn't do this and the cable has an area were there is a bend that causes some binding. If the heater valve was just a few inches forward on the fender this wouldn't happen.

[1930artdeco]

Thanks, figured that was the case. I just have not pulled the controls yet.

Mike

[1930artdeco]

Took advantage of the sun today.

[mustang6984]

Looks like ya missed yer callin' in life...should have been a painter!    Looks good buddy!

[1930artdeco]

Bit slow lately but still making progress. I am waiting for a fitting to finish the tank line install and then back to the long brake line-hoping to not cut it short this time . Got the radiator fixed and installed, the PS pump is on its way back, the Gen/starter are in the shop and the intake is now bolted down. The carb is cleaned up but the throttle plates were frozen so it is taking several days of PB blaster to free them up. Will get my rebuilt distributor back this weekend, in the meantime I ordered a NAPA one-and you guessed it short dist shaft so it will go back.

Finally got the heater box out so will clean them up and paint them and reinstall with a new heater core. Then I will ask a boat load of questions about installing the engine and tranny just to make sure I don't forget anything. That is all for now. I will post pics in the next few weeks of the progress.

Mike

[1930artdeco]

Ok, so here is the situation as it stands right now. I have three things left to do before I stuff the engine-I think:

1) replace the exh manifold to pipe studs.
2) replace gasket behind oil filter adapter
3) Reinstall heater box/hoses

Anyone else think of anything that needs to be done before stuffing the engine and tranny? I am shooting for the last weekend of the month. And hoping to fire her up a few weeks later just for run/breaking/ leak test/adj for timing and carb etc. Not actually getting her out on the road.

Mike