Overhauling brakes

[1930artdeco]

Ok, I have started researching and buying parts for my brake overhaul. Here are my plans and questions, so please chime in if I missed something or am incorrect:

-Replace all brake cables-just purchased. NOW, how do I get them out of the rear brake bracket? They appear to be crimped into it?
-Replace all front and rear springs
-Replace all front and rear shoes
-Replace front bearings/races and washer
-Replace all steel lines-Which ones do I need as I am switching over to a 69/70 Mustang dual non-power drum master cylinder
-Replace all rubber lines
-Add metering block from same vehicle so have brake pressure should I lose a wheel cylinder?
-Which brake master actuating rod do I need? Stock (I have still or the one from a mustang)?

Does this all sound logical?

Mike

[abe_lugo]

I'm going through something similar. 
For steel lines you will just have to build them up to the master from your T  at the frame.

I would recommend you buy a double flaring tool for 3/16.  You may want to get that 40.00 one. 
Also get a tube bender. 

Get an assortment of fittings that go onto 3/16 tubing. 

Buy a roll of 3/16 tubing to run the new line out to the rear.  If you will replacing that one.

For the rubber line where they meet bracket. You basically tap out a u-shaped lock that holds them in.  You may want to break loose the fitting first. 

Also note some guys go to self adjusting parts on the rear brakes when redoing them.  There a thread with part numbers.  The cheapest I found was the parts on Amazon using acdelco numbers.
I have not done my yet as I'm changing back to a swift sure with a dual master. 


As far as master.  I have read most every which way.  I actually have new  a mystery  power booster unit with master that was for this car years ago. more than likely a Comet power booster.

I have seen some people say use the dual from a comet, Fairlane, etc.  I am actually going with the 1-1/8 dual Mustang unit with the original swift sure unit. But that me.  My old setup was half assed teenage years stuff that didn't work correctly. That set up was a dual, but the small 8in booster like you get from most disc swap kits.

What I would say is if you are keeping drum/drum.  Use a dual master with the same size diameter cylinder.  There are also Many trains of thought on the metering valve.  Or use an adjustable prop valve. There are some with the brake light switch attached, so you just move the wire over.

I did a dual master setup on a 59 Dodge.  Used the proper size dual master.  An adjustable prop valve, and used the proper size check valves inline. It all worked and adjusted great.

[Lgcustom]

Add wheel cylinders to your list.

[RICH MUISE]

I'd strongly recommend using NiCopp for the brake lines. It won't rust and is really easy to get a nice double flare. Also bends/shapes really easy. A bit more expensive but well worth it. Most of the advantages of stainless without the hassle.

[1930artdeco]

Thank you for info. I had forgotten to add that I am going to try and rebuild the wheel cylinders. I will have to get a flailing tool and tubing bender and loo for the NiCopp tubing. I am wondering if I can route them on the inside of the frame for a little more protection?

Mike

[gasman826]

That would be a NO on routing through the frame.  The frame is two halves welded together with interlocking alignment plates blocking the inside access. 

[RICH MUISE]

The NiCopp tubing is easy to find. Online or your local parts house......AutoZone, etc.
Another option is going to a place like Inline Tubing for stainless premade/pre-formed brake lines made specifically for your car. They will have all the original style add-ons like coil springs over the tubing in areas that are subject to abrasion. I only recommend going that route if you are redoing the brakes as oem. If your changing to discs or changing master cylinder, etc.,there will be lots of the components that won't fit.
JFYI, places like Inline Tube buy so much Stainless tubing, they can order it annealed in huge quantities so they can bend/flare it easily. Annealed stainless brake tubing is not available to us.

[hiball3985]

I think he means on the inner side of the frame, not inside the frame 

[1930artdeco]

Thanks for the tips Rich. I am thinking that since NiCopp is that easy to bend if I shouldn?t clad it in something where it runs along the frame for damage protection?

Mike

[RICH MUISE]

It's relative......compared to stainless it's easy to bend. Very durable stuff. I believe I've read on several occasions it is mandatory on most European new cars.

[59meteor]

Last year I re plumbed the entire fuel and brake system in my 59 2 door sedan, using the NiCopp tubing, and the stuff is terrific. Much easier to make perfect double flares, and easy to bend, well worth the extra cost in my opinion. I also bought an inline flaring tool, which makes nicer, faster flares, and also is easier to use in tight spaces. The prefabbed , car specific formed lines are great if you have the body off the frame, but trying to snake a 12 foot long section of brake line, with multiple bends without damaging or kinking it, is virtually impossible with the body on the frame. On my 59, I did run the long line on the inner side of the frame, and secured it with rubber lined "Adel" style clamps, keeping it away from the exhaust system.
As for removing the parking brake cables from the backing plates, I have used 2 different methods. The cable housings have 6 steel "fingers", 3 flat, and 3 spring loaded. When the cable is installed thru the backing plate hole, the 3 spring loaded tabs are compressed as they enter the hole, and then pop out once they are inserted far enough. This prevents the cable from coming loose, yet still allows some movement. If the cable is broken, stretched, seized, or otherwise un-useable, you can snap off the 3 fingers with a flat blade screwdriver. But if the cable can be saved, a small worm gear hose clamp can be spilled over the fingers, and when you tighten the clamp, it compresses the fingers, so the cable can be removed without damage. On my 59, I was able to clean up the cable housings with a wire wheel, lube the cable, and re install them. They look and work like new.

[1930artdeco]

Pulled the front two wheel cylinders off today to see if they are rebuildable. Popped the rubber off and both pistons were stuck in the retracted mode. So went home and dropped them in evaporust. Poured it in as golden and two hours later it was black. So for now I think I will just get new ones until I can play with them and rebuild them at a later date.

Mike

[SkylinerRon]

Never clean brake parts with petroleum based cleaners. Brake clean spray or brake fluid only!

I use silicon brake fluid in complete brake jobs as it won't rust parts from setting a long time as our toy cars
usually do. I have a 57 that I did back in 1983 and everything works perfectly still.

You can have your wheel cylinders sleaved with brass and they will never rust again.

You can remove the e-brake cables and soak them in kerosene to clean and lube them.

Good luck,

Ron.