Remanufactured Y-Block for my car

[ROKuberski]

You may have noticed in the video where I say that the reroof was because of a recent hail storm.  I've lived in this area since 1971 and been a home owner since 1974.  In that time I have had the roof on my home replaced 8 times because of hail.  I've had cars damaged too, but the best place for a car in a hail storm is in the garage.  That's the #1 reason to keep my cars indoors.  The lift is a big deal for sure.  My first oil change standing up was pure pleasure.  I'm sure that we all have squirmed around under a car way too many times.  The one disadvantage to a drive on lift is if you need the car off its wheels to work on something.  You still have to jack it up.  But, there is a jacking tray included with the lift and I have a bottle jack that is air operated.  A decent size air compressor is one of the items that lives in my new shed.

Raising the roof was really a cheap project.  I don't remember the exact cost, but all in, it was less than $1,000 (including the electrical work and relocating the gas line.)  I found a lightly used lift in the metro area for $1,500 and of course no shipping charge.    I had thought about doing this for a few years, but the roof repair because of the hail storm really got me going.  That saved me some money.

Rich

[ROKuberski]

Has anyone removed an engine with the transmission attached?  I plan to remove the hood and radiator, but not the grill and front nose piece.  I have a neighbor that has a standard engine hoist and stand that I can borrow.  I think the combined weight of engine and transmission is about 850 - 900 pounds.  The hoist I will borrow does have an equalizer on it.

Rich

[RICH MUISE]

Very tough to do with the front sheet metal still on. I looked at doing that a few years ago when I replaced my engine because I can't get to the bellhousing bolts unless everything is pulled forward a few inches. I decided it may be possible with a high block and tackle, but nowhere close with cherry picker

[ROKuberski]

"No where close" clinches it.  I'll stop thinking about it and just drop the transmission.  I've already got lots of practice doing this anyway.

Thanks,

Rich

[Lgcustom]

I dropped a 460 with C6 in mine with a regular engine hoist and load leveler. Just removed the hood. As I recall, I did it alone.
However, it's an iffy affair. I did it that way because I don't have a way to install the transmission separately. YMMV

[RICH MUISE]

I guess alot of it would depend on your particular engine hoist. I had to borrow my next door neighbors just to get the engine alone out with the bumper still on the car. Mine wouldn't even reach back far enough, and I'm pretty sure even his wouldn't have been tall enough to get the tranny over the sheetmetal with the engine/tranny at the pretty drastic angle it would have had to be at. Besides, Rich has a lift and has already said removing the tranny is a fast operation for him. My car has a battle scar from that removal.

[59meteor]

Many of the less expensive engine hoists claim a 1500 pound capacity, but that is only if the boom is set to the shortest length, which is basically too short to pull pretty much any engine from a vehicle. Even with the boom extended to it`s longest length, it will likely be too short to pull the engine alone from a 57 with the front bumper still attached. And even if you could get the hoists hook onto the engine, at the full length, the hoists capacity is reduced to 500 pounds, which is not adequate for a complete Y Block anyhow. I have a heavier duty engine hoist, like the style that I used to rent from equipment rental stores in the 70s, but even that is sketchy for removing the FE and Toploader in one piece, as the combination of a narrow hood opening, tall radiator support, and the firewall shape, makes it riskier than I am willing to try. Considering how easy the front clip comes off these cars, I find it well worth the small effort to remove it. It provides so much more working space, reduces damage potential to the fenders and firewall, and if you want to clean, detail, or paint the firewall and engine compartment, so much easier.

[ROKuberski]

I briefly thought about building a quad-pod to sit on the lift with a center lifting point that I could hang a come-a-long on.  I could lift straight up with that and would have to roll the car to change position.  Just seemed like too much of a chance for something to go wrong. 

Safety trumps easy.  I'll drop the transmission then put the cross member back in.  That way I can leave the parking brake working.  I've never tried my power brakes with the hydroboost unit not working.  I'll also take off the adapter plate on the back of the engine, that will also remove the starter.  Exhaust manifolds will also be off.  I may pull the intake manifold too just to protect my EFI unit.  The more I think about it, I should pull the alternator and PS pump.  Got to remove them anyway.  However when I reinstall the engine, I want everything back on.  It's easier to do on the engine stand than in the engine bay.

Now that Rich mentions having a problem with reach on the lift he used, I will check with my neighbor and see if his will get far enough under the car to do the job. 

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The option to remove the front clip popped up while I was responding.  I'll think about it, but it seems like a lot of extra work and the possibility of damaging nicely painted sheet metal parts.

[hiball3985]

Is there something different with the AOD that you can't pull just the engine?

[RICH MUISE]

What I was thinking. I just had to pull my engine forward enough to get to the bellhousing bolts, then everything got pushed back and the tranny bolted back down. No reason to have to remove the tranny.

[hiball3985]

I've pulled several with FORDO leaving the trans in, I just don't know what would be different with an AOD?

[terry_208]

I have the front sheet metal off my car and can easily install motor and transmission with a Harbor Freight hoist but that is a 302.  Like Rich stated, and I never thought of it before, I doubt I could reach it with sheet metal installed. 

[ROKuberski]

Is there something different with the AOD that you can't pull just the engine?

Nothing except I've never done that before.  The AOD is pretty close to the dimensions of the original.  I think it weighs a little more.  I am thinking that to put it back together, I have to mate up the flex plate to the studs on the torque converter and that may be a challenge.  Also, without the engine there needs to be something to support the front of the transmission.  The car will not be on the lift for the engine removal and reinstall and won't be until it's back together and running.  Once I get the engine back in the car, I can jack it up and put it on jack stands and get out my trusty creeper.

I don't want to overthink this project.  However, I most certainly do want to solicit advice from the great bunch that hangs out on this website.

[terry_208]

I would think a ratchet strap around the frame and under the front of the trans should be sufficient to support the trans.

[RICH MUISE]

Unistrut works great