Remanufactured Y-Block for my car

[ROKuberski]

No, no paint in the lifter area or in the valve train or the bottom of the engine.  As much as it pissed me off when I saw it, I got all of the excess paint removed in about 90 minutes.  I had a piece of wood dowel that was a good size for wrapping a rag around it and dipping it in Acetone and then inserting it down the spark plug hole.  I thought the spark plug hole would be the toughest to clean out, but it was actually the easiest.  I still have to clean the rear of the engine where the transmission bolts up, but since it is on the engine stand that is not easy to get at.

I'm not so much pissed now as just disappointed that they painted all of those gasket mating surfaces.  If they painted mine, it's likely they painted every engine the same way.  I would be surprised if I'm the first to complain.

Rich

[57chero]

I can understand cleaning the gasket surfaces and the plug holes, but I wouldn't bother with cleaning the paint off the back of the block where the tranny mounts. By the way I think you got a heck of a deal on the motor with shipping. I just spent $6800 on my factory 289 HiPo I had rebuilt locally for my 65 K code fastback.

[ROKuberski]

Thanks for the comments.  I hope to never see the back of the engine again after this project.  So, I'll still clean the mating surfaces.  Right now, it's snowing and it's cold in the garage and the Explorer is clean, so I'm not going to put it outside and then warm up the garage.  I'll take a day off from the project, mostly.  I did bring in the timing chain cover/water pump so I could figure out how my A/C compressor/Alternator brackets go back together.  The brackets came with the A/C unit, but I modified them so I could use two belts over the compressor.  It was slipping with one belt.  I cleaned all the brackets and repainted them.  Well, It's all figured out, but I want to buy some more new bolts.  Tomorrow is supposed to be warmer and dry, I'll get back at it then.

Rich

[ROKuberski]

Well Punk, "Do you feel Lucky?" said Clint Eastwood. 

Yes, today I was lucky - twice.  My original engine had a 9/16" bolt on the harmonic balancer, replacement engine requires 5/8" bolt.  The lucky part, Ace hardware has a grade 8 bolt exactly like I need right on the shelf.  I did do a little research and yes, both sizes are common. 

I also snapped off a new 5/16" grade 5 bolt on the water pump with my torque wrench set at 13 foot pounds.  It's one of the bolts that I have a shim on for my alternator bracket.  With the bracket removed I was able to remove the bolt.  It snapped right below the head.  At least I did not have to remove the timing chain cover.

Back to the salt mines,

Rich

[ROKuberski]

Well, I have the engine together.  I've added the break in oil and I am running the oil pump, but not getting oil to the valve train.  I am turning counter clockwise with a battery drill doing about 150 RPM.  I could tell when the pump took a prime.  After about 5 seconds it got harder to turn.  Am I going fast enough?  150 RPM on the dist is like the engine turning 300 RPM,

Rich

[oldave57]

Rich,

Can you connect an oil pressure gauge while you are turning the pump with the drill?  It might give an idea when and how much oil pressure is being achieved with the drill turning the pump shaft.  It might take some time before the oil makes its way up to the valve train, but it should show up.  I think the drill speed should be sufficient to get the oil up there, but a pressure gauge would also give some idea of status.

Good Luck,
Dave

[Lgcustom]

If you have a 1/2" corded drill, it would have the power to keep running without fear of killing your battery powered one.

[Ford Blue blood]

I think you don't have enough drill motor.  300 RPM seams a little slow, oil is cold, clearances are tight, might take longer for the oil to get there.

[hiball3985]

It maybe they used a cam that is crossed drilled rather then grooved. The holes in the cam have to line up with the holes in the cam bearing before oil will go to the heads.

[ROKuberski]

Yes, I have a more powerful drill and I will get it out.  And I can attach a pressure gauge to the engine.  Also, the guy at S&J said that I likely won't get oil to the top end unless the engine is turning.  Today and tomorrow I can't spend much time on the engine.  I made good progress yesterday and we now have a warming trend and that will be helpful. 

He also told me that I am the only person to ever complain about paint on the gasket mating surfaces.  Hmmm.

Rich

[hiball3985]

If it only gets oil to the top end when running you have a crossed drilled cam.

[ROKuberski]

Does oil to the valve train have to pass through the cam?

Rich

[KULTULZ]

The 1954-55 cam center journal was cross-drilled. The 56/ the oil was supplied to the heads through a groove cut in the bearing boss behind the actual bearing shell.

You have to spin the pump and measure with a pressure gauge to be sure the oil reaches the top end. Rotate the cam slowly and sparingly as the cam lube may get washed off. Sometimes the center cam bearing is installed incorrectly and will not allow oil to the head(s).

Read This - https://www.eatonbalancing.com/2021/12/31/y-block-top-end-oiling-woes/

Is your engine rebuilt or did they give you an exchange?

[ROKuberski]

Thanks for the diagrams. 

As to cam lube, I would imagine it's already gone.  They power up the engine with an external motor to do their final checks as well as compression checks.  I've thought about running the oil pump and then turning the engine with a wrench.  Don't know if that helps or not. 

Rich

[hiball3985]

The 1954-55 cam center journal was cross-drilled. The 56/ the oil was supplied to the heads through a groove cut in the bearing boss behind the actual bearing shell.

The oil is supplied through a grove in the cam shaft journal, A grove cut in the boss behind the bearing is a modification made by a builder, usually a hi performance builder not from the factory.