1957 Fairlane Y Block

[hiball3985]

I use this cap ( OEM 62-64 Y block ) that goes into the valley cover, it might help you offset the line away from the linkage. Then I have a short piece of hose to connect to a GM PCV, I don't recall the number but it fits many small block Chevy, Buick, Olds etc. The hole is much larger then yours.

[ROKuberski]

The more research I do, the dumber I feel.

61 - 64 Ford pickups with 292's had a pcv valve.  Seems to me that this would be a great choice.  The location Ford used is where I will install mine.  I don't know if there is an oil trap below it, but it seems easy to make one. 

The first picture is a plumbing diagram that I found, but it seems needlessly complicated.

The second picture is from Rockauto and is the correct pcv valve for the 292 pickups.

The third picture is of a 292 engine with the pcv valve mounted.

Since I have the valley pan out, I can fabricate a mount for the screw in original type valve.

Rich

[hiball3985]

I had a better picture of the bottom of the valley cover but couldn't find it.

[hiball3985]

I have a four barrel carb so I use a modified version of the four barrel design. The part circled in red is totally impossible to find so I use the GM PCV ( blue part ) and made a new tube ( green ) that goes to the back of the carb.

[ROKuberski]

Okay, what is the blue part and what does it do?  And, do I need it?  I was planning on running a tube from the PCV valve directly to the vacuum port on the EFI unit.

Great photo of the bottom of the valley pan.  I can easily create a sheet metal piece like that.  Is there anything inside of that void space?

Rich

[hiball3985]

Okay, what is the blue part and what does it do?  And, do I need it?  I was planning on running a tube from the PCV valve directly to the vacuum port on the EFI unit.

Great photo of the bottom of the valley pan.  I can easily create a sheet metal piece like that.  Is there anything inside of that void space?

Rich

The blue part is the PCV valve. Inside the void is the part with the nut for the screw that secures the cap.
This is what it looks like, don't laugh at my cartoon

[ROKuberski]

Hey, no laughing here.  As always, I'm glad to be able to consult with others that have experience that I can tap into.

Below are two photos I found on the internet of a mostly stock install of a pcv valve on a Y-Block.

The first picture shows the connection point on the left rear of the valley pan, the second one is the stock Ford PCV valve installed in the intake manifold. 

On my engine the second photo location has had a connection that goes to the boost side of the vacuum pump on the top of the fuel pump.  I still have the vacuum wipers on my car.  In fact, I've left in the fuel pump so that it can provide vacuum boost for the wipers - this is also connected to the heater control unit.  If I remember right, the boost unit on the fuel pump raises the vacuum from -13 psi to -17 psi.  The wipers work fine until you hit the accelerator, then the come to a stop.  I did have the wiper motor rebuilt when I got the car 10 years ago.  Using RainX on the windshield almost makes the wipers unnecessary, but I do want them to work.  I've considered putting a vacuum accumulator in the car, there is lots of room in the driver's side fender well.  (Yes, I know, I've gone off on a tangent here.)

Anyway, it appeals to me to use a pcv valve that is designed for this engine.  The hook up to the valley pan (1st photo) looks like a Rube Goldberg lash up.  I am currently considering building the "well" under the hose connection and connecting the vacuum line on the EFI unit to the wipers/heater control (if the wipers don't work well, I will consider reinstalling the fuel pump or consider the vacuum accumulator.)

Rich

[KULTULZ]

There is a baffle mounted to the bottom of the valley pan about 1/4 of the way back from the front of the engine.  I don't know what the function is of this simple piece of shetmetal.

That is a baffle. It directs air flow from the filler cap (fresh air intake) from the lifter valley into the top of the cylinder heads to ventilate them.

The sheet metal piece at the rear of the pan is a splash baffle. It keeps splash from the distributor drive away from the road draft tube/PCV intake. It is not an oil baffle as it will allow oil mist to be drawn into the system. The misting is handled separately.

There are two types of PCV SYSTEMS, one OPEN (draws outside air via the filtered oil filter cap) and CLOSED (draws fresh air via the ACL ). The oil filler cap is closed (no filtering element) and has a nipple to connect a intake hose to the ACL.

A quality oil filler cap will suffice. It will have a wire mesh that needs to be serviced or replace the cap on a regular basis. Original oil fill caps contained hog hair and had to be serviced at each oil change.

If you decide to go to a CLOSED SYSTEM, I would think you would want to do it tastefully as to appear as OEM. The CLOSED SYSTEM will also stop the stink of hot oil smoke after shutdown if you have a pressurized crankcase and/or bad rings.

To check proper operation, simply put a fuel pressure-vacuum gauge on the dipstick tube and verify 2-3 HG at idle. Proper air flow amount is determined by calibration of PCV VALVE.

[hiball3985]

Rich there are many different ways to set up the system that will work. But I would suggest not running it into the front of the intake manifold like the factory system for the 2V. That system leans out the front cylinders and adds a small amount of oil also. Going directly into the carb or EFI will better distribute to all cylinders evenly..

[Ford Blue blood]

Rich there are many different ways to set up the system that will work. But I would suggest not running it into the front of the intake manifold like the factory system for the 2V. That system leans out the front cylinders and adds a small amount of oil also. Going directly into the carb or EFI will better distribute to all cylinders evenly..

Agreed.

[hiball3985]

Some people use a simple set up like this.

[ROKuberski]

Some people use a simple set up like this.

This is what I was considering at first, then got wrapped up in doing what Ford did on the early 60's pickup's.  There are thousands of pcv valves available.  Looking at what I selected years ago, I am pretty sure that my choice was not a good one.  My valve does not have the spring loaded check ball.  It's an empty chamber with a small hole in the end.  I did see one just like it in photos that others had posted.  It is a Duralast PCV1115DL.  What are you guys using. 

I can't measure any pressures until the engine is running, so what ever I do will be done before reassembly. 

[hiball3985]

The one you had used is empty? that hardly makes it a valve and seems it would be sucking air/oil all the time?
I went with the homemade semi Ford design because they considered the long metal tube a cooling tube. I'm not sure how that science works but I'm guessing when the fumes cool the pipe the suspended oil will drop back down and not enter the intake?
The reason I used the GM valve was the one end is 3/8" and the other is 5/16" which matched the size of the outlet 3/8 in the cap and 5/16 on the carb and flowed in the correct direction. Flow direction is another consideration when choosing one. I got it backwards on my 223 six the first time.

[ROKuberski]

Jim,

I just made an order with Rockauto for some of the things that I need and I included the Ford PCV valve used on the early 60's Y-Block engines.  It was less than $6 so if I use it fine if not, it can be scrap metal.  I now plan to install that in the left rear of the valley pan and I am pretty sure that I can avoid my cable accelerator linkage.  I'll mock it up before I punch a hole.  I'll also install an upside-down metal can and put a stainless steel kitchen scrubby in it.  Not sure yet what I will do to provide air into the crankcase.  Maybe the connection to the air cleaner would be the easiest.  I think I will measure the negative pressure at the EFI and at the air cleaner to see if there is a differential pressure.

Rich

[hiball3985]

The PCV 2v version the threaded end goes to the intake, the 4V version the threaded end goes towards the valley, thats how I got mixed up at one time..