Lower a arm shafts

[kld292]

Hello all, longtime lurking member. Finally got all the right bushings for the fatman tubular arms and I have a few questions. I got the rear a arm shafts to come out just fine but the front shafts are being stubborn. I've hit with a big ass hammer, used an air hammer. But no luck, what's the next step? Fix it with fire?

[KULTULZ]

You're trying to insert the new bushings into the control arm bushings openings?

I wouldn't be beating on them too hard. You need either a press or below tool -

[KULTULZ]

If possible, would like to see photo(s) when finished ...

[kld292]

The tubular an arms already come with new bushings and inserts. I'm trying to get the front mounting shafts physically out of the frame.

[RICH MUISE]

a bigger hammer. Yes, mine were a big problem getting out also. I assume you have new replacements or you wouldn't be trying to get the old ones out. I literally used a small sledge hammer.

[59meteor]

Am I correct in assuming the the new front tubular lower control arms retain the factory lower pivot pins and bolts? On my 59, the rears also came out pretty easy, but the fronts were stuck into the front frame crossmember pretty solidly, and the hex on the pins are so thin, pretty much impossible to get to rotate with a wrench or socket. I ended up heating the hex end of the pin with a torch, and threaded a bolt into the pin from the back, and tapped it with a hammer, while putting pressure on the hex with a wrench. To avoid damaging the threads inside the pin, I used a bolt long enough so that it would thread all the way into the pin and bottom out. If you have an air impact chisel with a blunt end, that helps as well. After 65 years, those pins can but pretty well stuck! Actually, looking at your photo, it appears that the LCA has been removed, but the pin is still in place. Did you cut the old LACs off, instead of removing the pins? Looks like you should be able to heat up the rear of the pins as well, since there is no LCA in the way.

[kld292]

Fire fixed everything, heated up both ends of the pin and hit it with the air hammer. And viola! Two loose pins. Although the part that was tack welded to the front of the frame came off with the passenger side pin.

59meteor, the new a arms do in fact use factory(well factory style replacements in my case as the original ones had too much wear for my liking).when I removed the factory arms the front pins remained with the frame then the frame went to the sandblaster and coating guy.

[kld292]

Here is a couple pictures of the final product with the Viking coilovers.

[RICH MUISE]

Keep us posted on end results. This is the first time that I remember someone using the Fatman control arms. Do they allow for more caster than the oems?

[kld292]

I think they'll give 3-4 degrees positive caster.that's what the instructions say

[KULTULZ]

!!! ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL !!!

Did FATMAN supply the coil-overs and what style sway bar does he say use?

[kld292]

I purchased the coilovers separately from Viking. I believe a swaybar for a 57 will work with some modifications, but one for a 63-64 galaxie is what it's designed for.

[KULTULZ]

... one for a 63-64 galaxie is what it's designed for.

!!! THANX !!!