Hydraulic clutch

[terry_208]

Does anyone have information/suggestions on hydraulic clutches and installation and perhaps pictures?

[Jeff Norwell]

If you are speaking of the Hydraulic Throw out bearing to operate the clutch.... I have used them with great success.
Howe,Tilton and McLeod all have great products.... 
You must match up a small master to use in congestion and get the right size... 3/4,1 inch, etc, etc.
A supplier like Wilwood can help in this area.
Research the heck out of it.
Yes,. you will hear the horror stories on how they fail and can leave you stranded,.... well, a factory linkage set up can fail as well.
I have run both on different cars..... as a matter of fact, I run factory linkage on my black 57 and a Tilton unit in combination with a Wilwood master on my black/white car.

I can provide more info when you mention the set up

Jeff

[Jeff Norwell]

I will also add, pedal ratio is very key as well.

Jeff

[terry_208]

I was contemplating using the stock pedal.  I knew pedal ratio would be a must consideration.  I believe the pivot point for the push rod can be changed to get a proper travel.  I was thinking of an expanding/hydraulic throw out bearing.  The only thing I know about hydraulic clutches can be summed up with a couple statements:  1) a master cylinder is required and 2) you either use a externally mounted slave cylinder or internally mounted hydraulic throw out bearing.

[Jeff Norwell]

Yes Correct Terry..... On my B/W Custom 300 we had to alter the Pedal ratio a bit..I will have to go through my notes to see the reasoning.
Also..I had to make sure the master rod from the master was not arcing in the wrong direction. again.... I need to go through my notes.
I used a small Wilwood Master.
My internal throw out bearing is a Tilton. Please keep in mind I am using an FE set up(Toploader and 352)
All my throw out bearings are internal, but I have always wanted an external that uses the clutch Fork.
Its probably an easier set up in case something goes sideways.
But, space has always been the thwarting agent.

What trans and engine are you using?

Jeff

[gasman826]

LOVE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH...slave cylinder not so much.

McLeod 2 disc with McLeod hydraulic bearing on a TKO600 and Lakewood bellhousing...3/4" Wilwood master cylinder attached to '57 OEM clutch pedal with modifications.

- quiet
- very low pedal effort
- no looking for the correct equalizer, attachments, fork, etc.

I'm doing another one on the '65 Galaxie but have bought a Malwood clutch pedal kit.  No looking for OEM clutch pedal and NO cylinder mounting geometry issues...NONE!  PIC pending.

[lalessi1]

I have used several different arrangements and I believe it is the only way to go. I have several masters different sizes, a slave cylinder, and a left over McLeod T.O. bearing. Pedal mods are easy too. I have had several issues and right now I am using a Tilton T.O. bearing and a Tilton 7?8" master. My clutch effort is great when the car is cold but it stiffens up quite a bit when the engine gets hot. I have a MINIMUM amount of clearance between the clutch and bearing, it is all I could get. I'll be glad to help in anyway I can. I used a 1/4" aluminum plate bolted to the brake master on one side and the Firewall on the other side for rigidity.

[terry_208]

I have used several different arrangements and I believe it is the only way to go. I have several masters different sizes, a slave cylinder, and a left over McLeod T.O. bearing. Pedal mods are easy too. I have had several issues and right now I am using a Tilton T.O. bearing and a Tilton 7?8" master. My clutch effort is great when the car is cold but it stiffens up quite a bit when the engine gets hot. I have a MINIMUM amount of clearance between the clutch and bearing, it is all I could get. I'll be glad to help in anyway I can. I used a 1/4" aluminum plate bolted to the brake master on one side and the Firewall on the other side for rigidity.

Was there a problem with the MIcLeod T.O. bearing?  I'm going to tackle the clutch, probably Sunday late afternoon.
 I'll pull the motor and transmission to get proper measurments, to order parts.  The fenders aren't on the car so it will be quite simple, motor mounts, exhaust, and shift linkage.

 

[59meteor]

I have used several different arrangements and I believe it is the only way to go. I have several masters different sizes, a slave cylinder, and a left over McLeod T.O. bearing. Pedal mods are easy too. I have had several issues and right now I am using a Tilton T.O. bearing and a Tilton 7?8" master. My clutch effort is great when the car is cold but it stiffens up quite a bit when the engine gets hot. I have a MINIMUM amount of clearance between the clutch and bearing, it is all I could get. I'll be glad to help in anyway I can. I used a 1/4" aluminum plate bolted to the brake master on one side and the Firewall on the other side for rigidity.
Just wondering why you consider hydraulic the "only way to go"? My 59 has been on the road for 4 years now, with a 48 FE and 4 speed Toploader, using the factory Ford mechanical clutch linkage, and it has been absolutely trouble free. No pedal or real linkage modifications, no potential leaks, heat related concerns, issues with bleeding air out of the system, measuring and adjusting hydraulic throw out bearing, etc. I didn`t need to engineer anything, as Ford did that for me over 60 years ago. Having 2 factory Ford trucks with OE hydraulic clutch linkage, and having owned several Fox body Fords with factory cable clutch linkage, I find the solid, liniar feel of the mechanical clutch linkage preferable to either the hydraulic or cable stuff. And the reliability and simplicity can`t be beat. My buddy had a McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing setup in his 429 powered Cobra replica, and between trying to get it setup correctly, and the leaks cured, kinda soured me on such aftermarket kits. JMO.

[terry_208]

I mocked up the mechanical linkage but cannot seem to get things exactly right.  I built a mount to position the bell crank ball in an even position to the one mounted on the frame.  The alignment of the arm on the lowwer end of bell crank to the throw out arm was off.  After making modifications to that, the adjustment rod bent when I tried to depress the clutch. 

I had a vehicle with an expandable/expanding throw out bearing and never had a problem with it.  No linkage involved.  I've never bled a clutch but imagine it could be a pita.