Part # 358939-S What style screw is used to mount this rubber bumper?

Started by KYBlueOval, 2024-05-30 16:10

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KYBlueOval

I'm told that this rubber bumper (358939-S) is the correct part used to support the tailgate support straps on a Ranchero or Wagon.

I would post a photo or two, but I have not been successful as of late in posing photos as IMGUR has changed and I don't understand how to use the new version.So I'll describe the rubber bumper and its use.

When the tailgate on a Ranchero or Wagon is closed, the support straps fold and hang in a somewhat vertical position. This rubber bumper is attached to the body, not the tailgate and supports the folded support strap so it does not hit the body and rattle. Hope that's clear.

This rubber bumper is 9/16" in diameter and 5/8" in length. There is a 3/16" hole in ONE end only, that is approx.1/2" deep. I'm told the rubber bumper slips over the head of a screw. But what does this screw look like? The screw hole in the body, where this bumper mounts, looks like a #6. But the head of a #6 will barely hold the bumper in place.

The  Dennis Carpenter description of these bumpers is "Lower door bumper '55-'59 2 Door Hardtop,Conv., and Retractable."

Hopefully someone will enlighten me regarding the rubber bumper installation and how to post photos with IMGUR or from my Iphone.

Thanks
John







 

mustang6984

John...e-mail me the pics you want posted, and I will gladly put them into this thread for you.
Later...Hugh
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

KYBlueOval

Hugh........Please send me a PM with your e-mail address.
Thanks
John

Ford Blue blood

John I had one screw remaining with a part of the rubber bumper still there.  The screw was small, no idea of the actual number, but it had a flat washer style head.  Philips with a washer built in.  Does that make sense?  Kind of like an upholstery fastener.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

hiball3985

I don't have the rubber bumper or the screw so I can't help. But I have never heard the hinges rattle. More likely to be noticed in a wagon..
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

57chero

Here is mine, I don't remember How I put them in or if there correct but they serve the purpose.

KYBlueOval

Bill..........Yes that makes sense
HiBall......In addition to stopping a rattle, as near as I can tell, the rubber bumper "holds the strap away from the body", which keeps it from rubbing against the painted body, and rattling
57 Chero.....Your photos capture it correctly. Thanks

Thanks to the Trifecta of responders

I'm thinking of installing a Nut-Sert/Nut Rivet (I hate sheet metal screws!) and asking a friend to make me a couple of screws, along the lines of what Bill described, that will securely retain the rubber bumper, and in turn, support the straps, keeping them away from the body.
If I go that route, I'll get some photos posted of the screws.
Thanks
John

mustang6984

And here are John's pics that he was taking about...
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

KYBlueOval

Problem solved!
I installed 10-24 Nut-Serts and #10 Socket Head Cap Screws.
The rubber bumper fits tight on the cap screw head. All is good!

I sent photos to Hugh and I'm sure he will post them, when he checks his E-mail. One photo of the nut-sert and the #10 screw, and one with the rubber bumper installed on the screw and the third photo shows where the strap would rest without the bumper.
John


mustang6984

And the photos just came in while I happened to be sitting at my computer. So...here ya' go!
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

1930artdeco

I know you already fixed your problem but this is what is used on my wagon. And judging by the dust I am going with them being original.
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

KYBlueOval

Abe, you have more to go on than I did. There were no screws, just screw holes.I also had a difficult time finding a part number for the lower rubber bumper. I can't say positively that what I used correct, but it works, and it's another little detail I've "checked off".
John

abe_lugo

That was mike above, I have to check mine now,  One side on my hinge broke apart on the last trip (it was held but a bolt at the pivot) how I got it, so it is time to upgrade it to some I found off a Ranchero,  this rubber will help on mine as well. 

FYI guys I did do the seal around the bottom and sides on my wagon tailgate, but there still is a tiny bit of light on the tp corners. it bugs because I can see it from my rearview while I drive!
Abe      Los Angeles, CA  IN Los Angeles proper. 90008

abe_lugo

Here are mine.  Worn to bits  you can see the quick fix on pivot robot that is gone too
Abe      Los Angeles, CA  IN Los Angeles proper. 90008

djfordmanjack

Abe, frankly speaking, FoMoCo may have done spray tests on their cars (as seen in sales films) but they didn't get the tailgates quite right and sealed tightly, I think (one of) the problem (areas) is where the center cargo floor meets the inner quarter panels, You can clearly see that the panels have rounded corners, and they are only welded on top, leaving a somewhat triangular gap that the seal lip can't close up. Those rear corners have gas welds (where the assembly line couldn't reach with spot welders) and I may even have seen those small rear panel gaps gas welded. I think your next best repair would be sanding it to bare metal and use a high quality Epoxy glue or metal filler. The problem there obviously isn't water (as it would only drain out), but exhaust fumes getting sucked into the pssgr compartment, on higher speeds.
Another annoying leak area is the upper corners of the lower tailgate. I got into 2 major seaside thunderstorms in Croatia and water was bleeding inside by wind pressure.
Once I rebuild my lower gate, I will have to address all those problems.

On another note, was your CS originally Mocha silver, or was that just another earlier respray ? lower inner valance of your tailgate also appears to be mocha silver (metallic brown)