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57 windshield replacement

Started by glenmichael, 2025-10-20 09:44

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glenmichael

Before I start on removing and replacing the windshield the deer destroyed on my 57 custom 300, is there any advice out there from somebody that has done this and where did you get your replacement glass?? I also need to remove the Stainless trim from a 1958 ford that was there when I got the car 30 years ago!!! any help or advice I can get to keep me from making a mistake is appreciated, Thanks Glen

oldave57

I installed windshield on my 57 Retractable (back in 2020, so most of this is from memory since I did not think at the time to take step by step photos).  These are the items I used

1) Windshield (of course).  I ordered mine from Auto City Classics (very happy with their quality as well as shipping container and protection of the glass.  I ordered the light green tint which is very light and was what was original to my car.  (Link Below)

https://www.autocityclassic.com/1958-pickup-ranchero-custom-models-66a-300-66b/1957-1958-ford/edsel-sedan-wagon-ranchero-pickup-windshield-w489/

2)  Windshield Seal (available from Auto City Classics also)
3)  Sealant.  I used clear silicone and I know there are lots of opinions on the sealant, but I wanted something that would not get too "tacky" too quickly
4)  Rope.  I ordered 1/8" nylon rope from Amazon that worked very well.
5)  Soapy Water (about 1/2 dishwashing soap and 1/2 water) I put this mixture in an old Windex bottle and kept spraying as the seal popped into place.  I only used this to install into the car and not to place the seal on the windshield before installation.

This is a 2 person job because you will need someone on the outside to "slap" the windshield as you are pulling on the rope.  I placed the windshield on a 6' table to install the seal prior to installation in the car.  It is super important to get the seal centered on the windshield.  Once in place, I added duct tape in several places to keep the seal from moving.  I also added a mark at the top of the windshield frame (pinch weld) so I could use it to align the windshield.  My installation was a lot easier than yours will be since I could do it with the top down and get open access to the top of the glass during the install.  I placed the rope into the seal while on the table, starting at the bottom and leaving about a 2 ft. overlap, then pulling the rope into the seal "pocket" as I went around the top and back to the bottom starting point.  I did this to start pulling the windshield in from the bottom (even though the manual says to start at the top).  It seemed to work better from the bottom start because the windshield weight help pull it into place at the bottom. 

The first step is to clean the pinch weld area of the frame as clean as possible before adding any sealant, then setting the windshield into the frame using the alignment marks to keep it perfectly centered.  I pulled the rope a little on each side of center so I could reach the corners at the same time on both sides.  The corners are difficult but doable, then work around the upper corners and windshield top trying to keep the rope equal on both sides so you reach center top about the same time. 

It is a challenging procedure, but if you take your time it is doable.

Good Luck,
Dave

mustang6984

GREAT detail! And the memory seems to be in good shape as well.
Gonna print this out Dave...just in case I get brave down the road.  :003:
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)

2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

Fairlane62

I agree starting at bottom works better for me as well.  I just installed front and rears in another brand using that method.  I had to do it by myself so I used duct tape to hold the glass in place while alternately pulling the rope inside then going outside to push down on the glass, so a second person is definitely better.

abe_lugo

Make sure to roughly mark the center on the body and on the glass with the trim at the top and at the bottom. You can use some blue tape and just mark.  It gives you a target to hit when you are first going to drop it on the body.

If you want to save a lot of clean up.  Blue tape around the perimeter of the trim leaving only about 1" Of body showing. 

Before doing the final seating and rope pulling do a check on the left/right centering of both the upper and lower trims.

If you plan to repaint or remove soon you can actually put the seal in dry or with soapy water and this allows the whole glass to be removed if needed.

I used the 3M windshield sealant on one of mine. It stays in a semi sticky soft state like the original.
Abe      Los Angeles, CA  IN Los Angeles proper. 90008

glenmichael

Thanks Guys, I appreciate the response, great description Dave. From my 1957 Ford shop manual I'm a little confused looks like the stainless trim needs to be installed in the rubber seal while the gasket is on the windshield before the window gets installed!! So, does this mean to remove, the window must be pushed out from the inside with the gasket and trim still attached?? Thanks for Helping, Glen

glenmichael

Pictures from the manual

1930artdeco

If I remember right on my wagon at least I took the stainless off before hand-at least the lower corner portion. Other wise it came off with the glass.

Mike
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

RICH MUISE

#8
Quote from: glenmichael on 2025-10-21 08:59Thanks Guys, I appreciate the response, great description Dave. From my 1957 Ford shop manual I'm a little confused looks like the stainless trim needs to be installed in the rubber seal while the gasket is on the windshield before the window gets installed!! So, does this mean to remove, the window must be pushed out from the inside with the gasket and trim still attached?? Thanks for Helping, Glen

YES. Just remove the lower corner pieces and the screws. Be gentle removing the corner pieces, and hope the back tabs are still in existence. We've discussed the back tabs recently.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Edd505

I think the rear was similar to take out if I recall correctly. 
57 Custom 300 2dr 312 4V     58 Custom 2dr w/57 nose & 57 rear
94 Eddie Bauer Bronco 5.8      94 F150 EC LB 5.8
2012 F150 CCSB )hers)   2022 F350 6.7 CCLB (his)

None of us is as smart as all of us.

glenmichael

Hello everyone, the metal building I keep my sailboat and the 57 ford finally got above 40 degrees inside, so I went to work on removing the windshield. Right now, I think the easy part is done!! the stainless trim and rubber were hiding a lot of rust and damage!! I will order a replacement windshield but looks like a lot of rust removal and repair work needed first... More to Follow!!

glenmichael

pictures so far!!!

mustang6984

Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)

2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

Edd505

timely I just pulled the windshield, once I figured how it was put in. Mine looks a lot better but I'll be watching this.
57 Custom 300 2dr 312 4V     58 Custom 2dr w/57 nose & 57 rear
94 Eddie Bauer Bronco 5.8      94 F150 EC LB 5.8
2012 F150 CCSB )hers)   2022 F350 6.7 CCLB (his)

None of us is as smart as all of us.

RICH MUISE

That's gotta be a tough area to repair. I'm sure glad mine was nowhere like that.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe