Project 302 update

robhaerr · 2012-09-05 23:00

Thanks 62galxe!

I think we followed those instructions closely...but it was 3-4 years ago. I will have to ask my buddy Steve. Steve was very conscious of this. Check out these 2 episodes regarding the pushrods...kinda long, but nothin' else on TV...you can fast forward through...at 15:25 we discuss cylinder #7, although it was the #7 exhaust that broke (you are seeing the intake)...
https://vimeo.com/2263923

Here we installed the "new" pushrods we had to get in order to get the correct lash...we were pretty thorough with the measurements, so we are blaming it on a bad rocker at this point(!)...

https://vimeo.com/3042325

We did need to get longer pushrods when we were measuring with the stock ones. The rocker that broke was banging on the rocker stud, and caused the break so apparently we didn't look close enough. There are marks on the inside of the rocker slot and on the stud. The sound we heard was probably the rocker banging on the stud.

It turns out that this stock push rod had .070 lash, so we bought a longer rod...as it was the exhaust, not the intake as I thought earlier before removing the intake and heads.

I think we are going to go for the Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads that match the cam/intake/carb and be confident with the valvetrain. Also looking at using Comp Cams Magnum rockers with the roller tips. The aluminum will keep the heat under control a bit better, too.

I want dependable!

This motor seems to need the extra cooling that the aluminum will provide.

Thoughts?

62galxe · 2012-09-06 04:31

. I like the idea of the aluminum heads.

robhaerr · 2012-09-09 19:52

I tell you what...I'm glad it's a small block in the engine bay right now!

robhaerr · 2012-10-02 22:13

I am being a bit secretive in this clip, but we decided to go with new Edelbrock Performer RPM heads (60229) to ensure correct valvetrain geometry and heat displacement. We were a bit wary of the original heads...funky push rod lengths and too much heat. The Edelbrock heads require the drilling of the steam holes. We will be using Comp Cams Magnum roller-tip rocker arms. We also need to go back to stock length push rods after some measuring.

Enjoy as we start to reassemble the top end...looking forward to getting it started again...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ariRhoKDPyY

Cheers...
Rob

robhaerr · 2012-10-07 09:25

We are running out of parts...and getting closer after rebuilding the top end with Edelbrock heads for a better valve train...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWk9-IRFa_8

Rob

robhaerr · 2012-10-07 12:02

OK...we turn the key again...after 4 years of challenge and a whole bunch of fun...

www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZn9A8RS4Ws

Next step is lower front Aerostar springs and an alignment...plus some fine tuning of the transmission.

Cheers...

Rob

RICH MUISE · 2012-10-07 21:01

Yeah...That is one sweet sounding car...congrats. Let us know how she handles now that she can move on her own down the road....did you notice any of the lumpy spots in the steering you were worried about?

robhaerr · 2012-10-11 10:56

Thanks Rich!

The first order is to get the carb adjusted...it is running too lean out-of-the-box(Edelbrock 1406 600cfm, elect choke), so some different jets and metering rods are needed. I have ordered the Edelbrock 1479 tune-up kit(actually for the Edelbrock 1405 man choke, but has more jets, rods, springs...other forums have suggested settings from this kit) and have some great advise on where to start. Engine runs great when not driving, but is sluggish like it needs more fuel and burps through the carb when accelerating thru the gears at low speed.

The car handles much better with the r&p and sway bars, although I have not been on the freeway at higher speeds yet. I have no more bump-steer, which was a huge problem with the bad geometry on the "frankensteined" stock manual steering that was on the car.

There is a slight lump with the rack and pinion due to the angle of the double-joint as you guys warned about.

I am getting the 1990 Aerostar coil springs put in for the ride height I want and an alignment tomorrow. The "2-inch drop" springs I bought from Detroit Springs make the front sit about 4 inches too high. I'll post before-and-after pics, but I am going for the ride I had in the photo under my name over there on the left. Those were cut springs and not in good shape when removed by Walden Speed Shop.

I might continue the Project 302 videos through this process...not sure yet. Some other friends want me to continue as we get it running as ideal as possible.

Best...
Rob

robhaerr · 2012-10-12 19:50

OK...

Front springs replaced and an alignment...holy crap!

Great news.

The Aerostar springs put my wagon back to where I wanted it after removing cut coil springs that were wasted and buying "2-inch drop" springs from Detroit Spring that raised the car 3-4 inches.

Here is a photo of before with the Detroit Springs and after with the Aerostar springs (Moog part # CC850, under $100 at O'Reilly Auto or others). The photo under my name over to the left is the car with the cut springs that rode pretty bad.

These Aerostar springs ride nice.

With this phase of dialing-in...this wagon drives like a freakin' slot car! (bigger front sway bar and rear sway bar help, too) Steering is as tight as my Infiniti G35, although I do have slight lump do to the angle of the double u-joint.

Hope that helps...
Rob

robhaerr · 2012-10-12 22:10

The 302 fits with plenty of power and plenty of room...

cool57 · 2012-10-13 12:25

Rob, what booster/mc are you running?

RICH MUISE · 2012-10-13 13:34

Awesome...bet you're just thrilled to get 'er done. Great news on the handling, I've been anxious to hear since my setup is pretty much the same. Thanks for posting the aerostar pn's also...don't know where mine's gonna end up height wise, so I may be looking for lower springs also. "Detroit Spring"...are you refering to Eaton? I think Jim Nolan had the same problem...wanted lower and got higher. Did you get the carb straightened out..I think you said it was a little sluggish at first.

robhaerr · 2012-10-13 13:42

Cool57...

I had the front power disc brakes put in by a local brake shop about 8 years ago, and I do not know the exact model. I see kits that look like mine in car magazine ads.

However...I just did a search for "Full size Ford power brake" and this is one of the links...scroll down to see the ones for a '57...

http://midwestbooster.com/products.html

Mine works much better now than the non-power drums that were on the front.

Hope that helps!

Rob

robhaerr · 2012-10-13 13:50

Hey Rich...

Yes, I was referring to Eaton! I was really bummed about those springs.

Dialing-in the alignment and ride height is like night and day. The guy who did it has hot rods. He was impressed with the Aerostar springs and the rack and pinion unit, although he has aligned many hot rods with the switch to r&p. I am not exaggerating about driving like a slot car. Now I need new front shocks...but they will wait.

Still need to get the carb dialed-in...just got the tune-up kit with the jets/rods/springs. Now I just need time!

Can't wait to get it running "ideal" as my buddy Steve likes to say. It should have plenty of grunt for a cruiser 'wagon. I know I will wish I got an AOD tranny...but that was twice the money. The C-4 will have to do. I love the small block and the room there is in the engine bay to do some work when needed.

Rob

512Fairlane · 2012-10-14 22:28

Thanks for all the info. I like the new stance. Sorry if I missed this somewhere but are you still running stock spindles? What are your wheel and tire sizes? Thanks.

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Project 302 update