I was about to pull the trigger on a Southwest T-birds/Concours Parts front sway bar. A question came up in another thread about wheel/tire clearance problems with these bars depending on backspacing, wheel diameter, tire size and when the sway bars were produced???. I am running 15" Vintiques, 4.25" backspace, and 225/60 tires. Will this work?
I am also considering a sway bar made by Quickor that is for a '59 and will clear any wheel tire combo, but it mounts in a stock 59 location and I am not familiar with the mods necessary to install one of these...anybody using a 59 sway bar?
i measured the granada rim from where it bolts up to where the tire bead sits on the back side.it is 3 1/8"
57-59 Frame horns are the same. The 59 bar is similar to most all modern sway bars.
You may have to drill holes in the frame and lower control arms as most 57's aren't drilled.
Back in the old days someone suggested running both 57&59 bars at the same time,
never tried it though. BTW; 57-64 LCA's are the same except for the hole for the bar mount.
Goodluck,
Ron.
SkylinerRon,
That is great information about the 59 bar. Anybody got the dimensions about where the hole is drilled in the 59 LCA? Pictures would be even better!
Kevin
if you look at my 4.6 swap post, you will see pictures of the aftermarket front sway bar
There is a company making a 1" bar for a '59 that fits in the stock location. They also show a 1" bar for a '57 Ford, no pics though. They claim that any wheel and tire will clear the 59 bar.
http://www.quickorgarage.com/newparts/newfrontsway.htm
I looked at the above link and they say it fits 59 fords am I to assume this would work for a 57 Wagon? Has anyone used these sway bars before and are they the correct diameter?
I bought one. I think their bar offers the same or better roll resistance as the Southwest/Concours bar even though it is slightly smaller in diameter because it has much shorter "arms".
Let us know how it works after you get it set up. We're expecting step by step hd pics of course! Let us know on the tire clearance as well. I would think this is more of an issue with the guys that are using the steering boxes. Since the turning radius on the R & P is so much less anyways, I wouldn't think it would matter for us. I can't say for sure if I will have atire clearance issue because I''ll have just the for-rolling-around donuts on the front until next year.
Will do!! :003:
Well I finally received my Quickor Garages front sway bar yesterday. The bar looks great and it installs in the '59 factory location. The kit uses the factory clamps to mount the bar to the frame that I don't have and after a quick look on eBay, I bought a pair for $20 bucks this morning. They are very thick and the bolts are on one side of the bar. I'll post pictures when I get the clamps. The installation should be very straight forward, two issues.. getting it into position and bolting the clamps to the frame. The instructions say I will need to remove one lower control arm and/or remove the harmonic balancer or remove the engine (say what!!!) ... I am gonna start by removing the harmonic balancer.... won't happen till next Friday at the soonest.
SAY WHAT!!! your not kidding. I don't know what the 59 bar looks like or how it mounts, for some reason I always ignored 59's :003:. I assume it goes behind the front cross member if it requires removing the balancer. I'll be interested to see how this goes. I got the bar from Concourse and installation was a snap.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the reason for going with the '59 was eliminating posible interference with the wheel/turning radius that the '57 HD's may have.?
Rich you are correct, the only reason I opted for this bar is wheel/tire clearance. I really liked the Concours bar and I knew it was a simple install. I am expecting some mounting mods will be required with this bar, we shall see how difficult.... hiball, yessir this bar mounts behind the radiator support. Even though the bar is 1" I think it may be a little stiffer than the Concours bar. I also saw that the Concours bar can bottom out on lowered cars so I figured this may be an option for those of us with dreams of "low riding".
Yes, thats the one draw back of the Concourse bar. I've bottomed mine out more then a few times. I'm sure it would be fine with a stock ride height but I have Granada spindles so it's sitting lower in the front.
Nice looking bar, hope it works out good for you. I can't picture why the dampener needs to be removed?
You have to "thread" the bar through the openings between the frame and the lower control arms...
Lynn, if possible some pictures when you do the install would be helpful for my simple mind :003:
The large curved center section almost looks like it would go over the balancer?
I plan on posting pics when I get around to doing the install. I believe the bar will be below and forward of the balancer. The install is all about getting clearance to actually position the bar. It looks really tight right now to me.
I found a couple of pictures online that show where the swaybar mounts on a '59 Ford. You will have to copy and paste the address and click on the search results to see the pics.
http//en.martinsauto.com/cgi-bin/md/M11597/s92.pl
http//en.martinsauto.com/cgi-bin/md/M11597/s77.pl
Here is a picture of the clamps I bought on eBay. This is going to be a bigger job than I had hoped. Looks like the lower control arms may need to be removed to drill holes for mounting. I doubt the frame material is thick enough to tap so I need to figure out a way to get nuts inside the frame rails? Cutting and welding could be a pain since I would need help in those endeavors. I need to change the bushings in the control arms anyway but I would rather not pull the car apart in perfect driving/car show weather. Problems, problems, problems... :005:
Mounting the 59 brackets looks like a major project. Just something to think about but when I pulled my trans cross member one of the nuts that is in the frame was stripped some what from removing the rusted bolt. I drilled it out and placed a new nut on a long bolt, using the bolt to hold the nut in place while my son welded it. Then removed the bolt, ground the weld flat and ran a tap through it.
I'd try to get a look under a 59-64 and see how the factory did it.
Probably caged nuts. Wouldn't trust just threads in the frame.
Maybe possible to make an "L" bracket using the bumper bracket bolts.
Goodluck,
Ron.
TTT I'm still waiting on install info and pictures :001:
i am still doing "homework" on the install (and my brakes developed an issue). I saw a "Garage Squad" episode and I captured a pic of the swaybar location on a 63 Galaxie. There is an "access" hole in a 63 frame that if I cut out may allow me to put nuts on the the sway bar brakets inside the frame rails....
I haven't read through all the threads on sway bars, but it seems all the aftermarket sway bars attach to the frame and have links like most modern bars. Do any go in the original location, using the 4 attaching points on the lower A-arms?
I think the ADDCO bar mounts in the stock location. I have issues with the original design personally. It seems like a rather ineffective design to me.
I looked at the links Lassie posted above and it looks to me this 59 bar may be a problem for motors that are set back more than the stock motor. It sure looks like a hassle to install to me. I wonder if you could unbolt the motor mounts and raise the front of the motor enough to squeeze it in?
Quote from: lalessi1 on 2015-04-22 20:08
I think the ADDCO bar mounts in the stock location. I have issues with the original design personally. It seems like a rather ineffective design to me.
I agree that it is not very efficient. I am trying to maintain an original appearance with my 500 though.
Quote from: Raven Rider on 2015-04-23 12:39
I looked at the links Lassie posted above and it looks to me this 59 bar may be a problem for motors that are set back more than the stock motor. It sure looks like a hassle to install to me. I wonder if you could unbolt the motor mounts and raise the front of the motor enough to squeeze it in?
The bar mounts in front of the motor I believe. The instructions say you need to disconnent one lower control arm from the ball joint and remove the harmonic balancer to get the clearance needed to fit the bar. It also says some report they were able to install it by removing the harmonic balancer only.
I tried to read through all the posts before buying my sway bars and it was very imformative. I went with the TSW/Concours bars. Front bar was very easy to install. Rear bar was easy until I was at the point of mounting the L brackets to the frame. A bolt and nut were supplied to mount to the frame. I decided to use a blind nut instead of cutting an access hole in the frame for installation of the nut.
Tire clearance is a concern with the front bar. I currently have Coys 17x7 with a 4 1/4" back spacing and 225/50R17 tires. They just touch the bar. In my opinion it is not enough to cause any issues. Of course I just finished with installation and one test drive so time will tell.
Ground clearance of the bar on my car is 7.5" on the front. As I purchased the car with the disk brake mod already installed I really don't know how much lower it is than stock.
The most positive aspect of this is the handling. Very much improved!! I was impressed. My car now handles like a modern one.
I have included a photo of the front bar installation. There are plenty of other photos on the forum, but none that I could find with the installation on a completed car.
Thanks for posting that, and welcome to the forum from another Texan! A few questions to clarify...When you say the tire just touches the bar, I assume you mean at full lock? Does it touch on both sides, and what are you running for steering?
That is correct. Steering lock to lock the tires just touch the bar. Both sides touch the same amount. I have stock Ford power steering with no steering mods installed other than the spindles changed for disk brakes. Can't tell exactly how the disk brake mod was done as I purchased the car with them already installed. Might be interesting when bearing or disk brake pads need replaced.....another day to worry about that.
If the PO used a kit for the disc brakes, and it has dropped spindles, it's a good chance the calipers,rotors, and spindles are Granada/Versailles. Also, as far as the amount of drop, those Granada kits are offered in 1 1/2 or 2 1/2 drop. If/when you need to confirm thcalipers/rotors, post a pic of your caliper and we'll see what/whose it matches here.
The reason I was asking about your steering setup, is those of us with the TBSW sway bar and Rack and Pinion steering probably won't have an issue with tire rub as the R & P already has lost us some of our turning radius. What you just posted sorta confirms that. Thanks
Well I attempted to put the Quickor bar in with the engine in the car minus the harmonic balancer..no cigar. Decided to wait until I pulled my engine (which I did earlier this week). Finally "finessed" the bar in with a rubber mallet and a 26" screw driver pry bar. The bar is not bolted to the frame as of now but it is in the correct location. IT is VERY tight, but it seems it will clear everything. My wheel tire combo (15x7, 4.25"BS, 225/60) is closer to the frame (and the spindle) than the swaybar at full lock. A few pictures:
That looks like a hefty sway bar.
That Quikor bar is sure a different approach. I don't think that location would have be a problem with my 4.6....maybe coolant lines and radiator hose.
I'll restate something here I posted on another thread just to keep this swaybar info together. I got my front tires mounted yesterday and have no issues with the tires hitting the Concourse sway bar. I do have the rack and pinion setup which shortens the turning radius, but at full lock, I have about 5/8 clearance. it's posible some of that will disappear when I get the front end aligned and check the stop bolt...maybe the stop bolt is set too far out....not sure if it's that or just the travel of the rack. lol I tried to do a 360 at the intersection near my house...didn't happen, but not sure it would have with the old steering box
6" wide wheel, 3.5" backspace, 205/70-15 tires.
The front sway bar on my 58 Edsel Pacer bolts up to brackets welded to the frame and the standard type links on the control arms, all from under the car. In WI right now but will shoot a couple pics and post when the "return home" thrash is done. My Edsel is a first day of production car so the frame on it is identical to 57 - 58 Fords and the idea should work. Might be it is same as 59s?
Well this sway bar odyssey is finally over. I removed both lower control arms and bolted the sway bar to the frame 13" from the front end of the frame to the centerline of the sway bar. This measurement was provided by KyBlueOval after he measured a '59 frame. The sway bar hit the bump stops on the frame on both sides, so I bought a '59 stock bar on eBay to see if it would clear, which it did. I spoke to Quickor and was told that this bar had never been installed on a '59 to date. I planned on cutting the bar arms and welding tabs on the square ends. Quickor provided these tabs. Next I put the lower control arms without springs only to realize that the control arm hit the sway bar about 1" from bottoming out. I tried putting the stock '59 bar on and it hit the frame on both inside corners about mid travel.
Bottom line, the '59 Quickor bar does not fit without major modifications in my opinion. I cannot say whether it would fit a '59 or not. The stock '59 bar did not work either, perhaps there is some difference between a 57 and a 59 that I am not aware of. There is a chance that the mounting position of the bar on the frame is not correct but there is such tight spacing that I didn't see it working in any location. Here are a few pics for the record... CONCOURS BAR IT IS!
More pics.
Mind boggling. I always thought the 57 and 59 frames would be the same. I thought I had read about other people using the stock 59 bar on a 57. Although the stock bar looks wimpy compared to Quickor.
Have someone measure from the centerline of the shock to the centerline of the swaybar
(the shock vertical position is constant on 57-64's)
on a stock 59, parallel to the ground, that should be your starting point.
See if the stock bar clears, that should show you how to mount it.
Goodluck,
Ron.
I used a dimension measured from the front of the frame to the center of the sway bar. The dimension was 13" and KYBlueOval measured a '59 for me and gave me that dimension. The stock '59 bar I had mounted at that posistion actually lined up very well with the holes on the lower control arms, but it hit the inside frame corners on both sides at the same time at roughly ride height. Moving it forward by as much as an 1 1/4" didn't help. Moving it rearward wasn't an option because the frame started getting narrow there. I actually think that the '59 frame lower inside corners at this point must have a bit of a "relief".
Suggested measuring from shock since it is a constant. Frame horns could vary
in length from 57 to 59.
There are 6 different frames for 57/58 and 5 for 59 probably best to get some pics
of a 59 assembled and compare.
Can you post pics of yours where it hits?
Goodluck,
Ron.
Ron, I really appreciate your comments, I would love to see how the Edsel bar mounted.
Picture 1, where I put the bar....
Picture 2, Stock 59 location picture...
pictures 3, 4, bar hitting frame.
Lynn, I have a friend with a 58 Edsel Ranger I could check out but he is out of town and I have no idea when he will return, he's stuck on a court case up in Washington state..
Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2015-08-31 08:17
The front sway bar on my 58 Edsel Pacer bolts up to brackets welded to the frame and the standard type links on the control arms, all from under the car. In WI right now but will shoot a couple pics and post when the "return home" thrash is done. My Edsel is a first day of production car so the frame on it is identical to 57 - 58 Fords and the idea should work. Might be it is same as 59s?
I am hoping Ford Blue Blood posts a couple of pics.
Lynn,
Pic's 3 and 4 are just too close to figure out for these old eyes.
How about one from the front and one from the side.
Maybe a ruler for scale. Quick light color spray on frame for contrast.
Ron.
In those pictures the stock sway bar is actually touching the frame on both sides, the bar is about in a stock ride height position, mounted as shown. In my mind since the frame rails are pretty much parallel at that point moving the bar forward does not help the clearance. I have both control arms mounted now, but not torqued, the sway bar is off the car.
Lynn my bad...I completely had a senior moment....will get out there today and post a couple of shots.
Hope these help.....
Thanks!!!! That is a very intresting arrangement.
Lynn,
A friend w/a 67 Coronet R/T tried an ADDCO bar that needed a similar
mount made up to attach it.
Glad you got the info, guess you will have to fab up something.
Goodluck,
Ron.
I'm waiting on the final outcome. My RW doesn't have any sway bars and it corners like a boat full of ......... When I swap out the motor this winter I will put in the sway bars. So get this figured out soon. :001:
Well I finally got the suspension put back together and the car is back on the ground. I gave up on the Quickor bar and ordered a Concours bar. I made the following changes:
'59 upper control arms
Aerostar springs (Moog CC850)
Stock spindles (replaced the Gran Torino spindles)
Wilwood 11.3" brakes
Moser 3" studs ( so I can add spacers for my wheels to clear the Concours sway bar)
Moog lower control arm bushings
The results are to this point outstanding. I put the upper contol arms on adjusted all the way towards the rear and I did not use any shims to see how much negative camber I could get. The car is at least 4" lower. The pic shows how much camber I can have now. The Wilwood brakes/stock spindles are probably 15 to 20 lbs lighter than the Torino assembly per side!
Lynn, looks like you have figured out the front sway bar issue. One question I have........tell me more about the need for longer studs and spacers "to clear the Concourse Sway Bar".
I just received a set of these bars from Concourse and will be installing the front bar soon on a totally bare frame. I'm hoping I can do this with the shocks in place and no coil springs. My brief reading of the "destructions" that came with the bar says to install with the suspension hanging.My thought is that the shocks will limit the travel of the lower control arm with or without the springs in place. What do you think?
Since you just installed this bar, what do I need to know that is not covered in the instructions?
Thanks
John
Lynn,
that looks good. If I was going to do it again I would go that route rather then the Granada spindles I have. Hard to tell exactly how low you are from the picture but after you get the bar on it maybe pretty close to the ground. How much negative camber are planning to run?
John,
Putting the bar on is an easy bolt up operation. I think letting the lower arms hang down a little just makes it easier to get the bolt, spacer and bushings in that connect the sway bar to the A arm. The only thing I remember as a problem was the weight of the bar. Trying to hold it place myself while getting the bracket hardware started. They don't tell you that in the instruction :003:
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-12-13 07:20
Lynn,
that looks good. If I was going to do it again I would go that route rather then the Granada spindles I have. Hard to tell exactly how low you are from the picture but after you get the bar on it maybe pretty close to the ground. How much negative camber are planning to run?
John,
Putting the bar on is an easy bolt up operation. I think letting the lower arms hang down a little just makes it easier to get the bolt, spacer and bushings in that connect the sway bar to the A arm. The only thing I remember as a problem was the weight of the bar. Trying to hold it place myself while getting the bracket hardware started. They don't tell you that in the instruction :003:
John, I actually have not installed the bar yet, I ordered it and don't have it. I am assuming the angle brackets that hold the bar are bolted to the outside of the bumper brackets so I was planning on installing it after I got the bumper on... that will be in a few weeks. I wasn't planning on being able to have this much negative camber so I really will play with it., probably 2 degrees. I wish I knew what the caster is. The upper control arm is back almost 1/4".
On the studs... my understanding is that the Concours bar will hit the tires at full lock with conventional steering if the back spacing on the wheel is more than 3 1/2". That was the reason I tried to use the Quickor bar in the first place. That varies with the individual bar and may not be an issue with rack and pinion set ups because they limit where full lock happens. My back spacing is 4 1/4" so I am thinking I may need 3/4" spacers.
Well I finally got my Concours sway bar in and I put it on the car yesterday. Man it is VERY LOW HANGING, 5 1/2" ground clearance.... It is also very close to hitting the frame basically because the car sits so low with the Aerostar springs. Oddly enough I have a LOT of clearance between the bar and the wheel/tire, at full lock I can put my fingers in between them. It also looks like I can raise the bar up by about 3/4" by redrilling the bracket holes. This has been a long expensive adventure.
I know mine is low with the Granada spindles and stock springs. I just redrilled the front holes and let it pivot up on the rear bolts but it only gained about a 1/2", more and it would have hit the bracket that holds the core support. I've bottomed it out on a few dips and driveways, the zerk fittings are gone :003:
Quote from: lalessi1 on 2015-12-20 14:46
Well I finally got my Concours sway bar in and I put it on the car yesterday. Man it is VERY LOW HANGING, 5 1/2" ground clearance.... It is also very close to hitting the frame basically because the car sits so low with the Aerostar springs. Oddly enough I have a LOT of clearance between the bar and the wheel/tire, at full lock I can put my fingers in between them. It also looks like I can raise the bar up by about 3/4" by redrilling the bracket holes. This has been a long expensive adventure.
Lynn, can you please expand on "I can raise the bar up by about 3/4 " by REDRILLING the bracket holes" Which brackets are you redrilling? Any photos?
Thanks and Merry Christmas
John
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-12-20 15:01
I know mine is low with the Granada spindles and stock springs. I just redrilled the front holes and let it pivot up on the rear bolts but it only gained about a 1/2", more and it would have hit the bracket that holds the core support. I've bottomed it out on a few dips and driveways, the zerk fittings are gone :003:
Jim, I'll have a similar set up to yours when I get this all assembled. Based on your experience, I'm thinking it would be adviseable for me to re-locate the zerks to either the front or rear of the bracket, rather than on the bottom as they come from Concours. Weld up the bottom hole, drill the bushing and drill and tap the bracket.I've only looked at my bar and parts briefly, so I'm not "hands on familiar" with the parts and installation, but thinking this would work. What do you think.
Thanks, and Merry Christmas
John
Quote from: KYBlueOval on 2015-12-21 05:14
Lynn, can you please expand on "I can raise the bar up by about 3/4 " by REDRILLING the bracket holes" Which brackets are you redrilling? Any photos?
Thanks and Merry Christmas
John
I will post some pics later today, before and after. Also there are two sets of holes for bolting the bar to the bottom of the bracket, I used the pair of holes that move the bar forward. I don't think the bar would clear my frame in the rearward position. That gives me the clearance to raise the bar. Moving the zerk fittings would not be a bad idea but the bushing has a raised small boss where the fitting is now to help get the grease to the right place.
Quote from: KYBlueOval on 2015-12-21 05:25
Jim, I'll have a similar set up to yours when I get this all assembled. Based on your experience, I'm thinking it would be adviseable for me to re-locate the zerks to either the front or rear of the bracket, rather than on the bottom as they come from Concours. Weld up the bottom hole, drill the bushing and drill and tap the bracket.I've only looked at my bar and parts briefly, so I'm not "hands on familiar" with the parts and installation, but thinking this would work. What do you think.
Thanks, and Merry Christmas
John
I think your solution would work just fine. In my case I'll probably wear out before the bushings do. If I notice any major wear in the future I'll just replace the bushings.
Quote from: lalessi1 on 2015-12-21 06:44
I will post some pics later today, before and after. Also there are two sets of holes for bolting the bar to the bottom of the bracket, I used the pair of holes that move the bar forward. I don't think the bar would clear my frame in the rearward position. That gives me the clearance to raise the bar. Moving the zerk fittings would not be a bad idea but the bushing has a raised small boss where the fitting is now to help get the grease to the right place.
Lynn I think the two sets of holes are there so they only had to make one part to fit both left and right sides if I remember correctly?
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-12-21 11:52
Lynn I think the two sets of holes are there so they only had to make one part to fit both left and right sides if I remember correctly?
Not really... there are left and right brackets. There is a notch that mounts to the rear.
Well I just "raised the bar"...pun intended. Here are a few pictures.
"Bracket 1" is the left bracket mounted as designed.
"Bracket 2" is the same bracket off the car. Notice the "notch" and the 4 holes on the bottom. I used the first and the third holes.
"Bracket 3" new holes
"Bracket 4" left bracket reinstalled.
"Bracket 5" right bracket before modifying for comparison.
The limiting factor on how far up you can raise the bar is access to and clearance of the rear bolt head. you can see it in the "Bracket 5" pic.
"Sway Bar After" shows how much clearance to the radiator support remains. I gained at least 3/4" ground clearance. Now I have almost 6 1/2".
You are right, my memory is going to hell :005: I went out and looked. My bar seems to be closer to the radiator support and I have 6" between the bar and ground, difference is probably suspension and tire size..
Just as a note, at 6" I still hit some parking lot wheel stops
Weird...mine almost touches the radiator support. I didn't modify anything.
Quote from: lalessi1 on 2015-12-21 12:47
"Bracket 4" left bracket reinstalled.
"Bracket 5" right bracket before modifying for comparison.
The limiting factor on how far up you can raise the bar is access to and clearance of the rear bolt head. you can see it in the "Bracket 5" pic.
"Sway Bar After" shows how much clearance to the radiator support remains. I gained at least 3/4" ground clearance. Now I have almost 6 1/2".
Thanks for the explanation and the photos. I've got a question about photo #5. I understand you must leave room for access to the back bolt that secures the bracket and bushing. Could those two bolts be welded to the large bracket, eliminating the flat washer and allowing the large bracket to be mounted even higher, creating more ground clearance?
Thanks
John
John, that got me to thinking. What if we removed the bolts completely and just welded in studs? This also jogged my memory, I didn't like the way the two pieces of the large bracket was only welded on the inside and I put a bead on the outside also, maybe overkill.
Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-12-21 15:43
John, that got me to thinking. What if we removed the bolts completely and just welded in studs? This also jogged my memory, I didn't like the way the two pieces of the large bracket was only welded on the inside and I put a bead on the outside also, maybe overkill.
Jim, Studs work for me! More clearance. My guess is that the manufacturer / supplier of the kit didn't want to get into welding studs. Another step, another cost, another sub involved in getting the "Kit " together. As to the additional welding............I like overkill. It is easy to do now before it is installed.
I just finished re-welding the entire frame. Overkill.........I know. It stayed together for 50+ years, so why bother. I want it to be right, and look right as well. The only person that will see it is the guy I run over.
John
Besides the extra cost of doing studs they probably designed it with a stock ride height in mind, then we come along and decide the lower the car in the front :003:
I also welded some sections of my frame but not the entire length. Then I learned why they don't use a continuous weld :005:
Well, they've obviously changed up something since I got mine...my bracket isn't welded, it's angle iron. I suspect the bar itself may be different also.
If I had the equipment and skills I would fabricate a flat plate welded to the frame just under the bumper brackets. I can see a simple way to raise the bar up enough to where it above the bottom of the radiator support. I looked at pics of 57AGIN's sway bar and his seems to be mounted further back on the bracket...back hole location???
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3116.msg18352#msg18352
Here is one of the pictures I posted back in Dec 2013 when we were discussing bars.
Check out the pic I added to my post above. I gotta go xmas shopping with the wife...I'll be back later
Both Richs and Bobs look like they are in the rear holes?
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2015-12-21 16:22
Well, they've obviously changed up something since I got mine...my bracket isn't welded, it's angle iron.
I agree. Hence tire clearance issue gone? I also noticed there is no spacer on the bushing/washer/shim stack arrangement...I had to go to a 3/8" x 5 !/2" bolt instead of the 5" provided. Lots of stuff happenig here!!!
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2015-12-21 16:36
Check out the pic I added to my post above. I gotta go xmas shopping with the wife...I'll be back later
Rich's bar doesn't look like it is bent quite the same as mine either. Mine gets closer to the frame as it goes goes back. So much so that I am worried about it hitting the frame.
Quote from: lalessi1 on 2015-12-21 16:46
Rich's bar doesn't look like it is bent quite the same as mine either. Mine gets closer to the frame as it goes goes back. So much so that I am worried about it hitting the frame.
Mine is close to the frame too but hasn't been a problem that I have noticed.