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After market front sway bars

Started by lalessi1, 2015-02-15 18:09

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lalessi1

Quote from: Ford Blue blood on 2015-08-31 08:17
The front sway bar on my 58 Edsel Pacer bolts up to brackets welded to the frame and the standard type links on the control arms, all from under the car.  In WI right now but will shoot a couple pics and post when the "return home" thrash is done.  My Edsel is a first day of production car so the frame on it is identical to 57 - 58 Fords and the idea should work.  Might be it is same as 59s?

I am hoping Ford Blue Blood posts a couple of pics.
Lynn

SkylinerRon

#46
Lynn,
Pic's 3 and 4 are just too close to figure out for these old eyes.

How about one from the front and one from the side.

Maybe a ruler for scale. Quick light color spray on frame for contrast.

Ron.

lalessi1

In those pictures the stock sway bar is actually touching the frame on both sides, the bar is about in a stock ride height position, mounted as shown. In my mind since the frame rails are pretty much parallel at that point moving the bar forward does not help the clearance. I have both control arms mounted now, but not torqued, the sway bar is off the car.
Lynn

Ford Blue blood

Lynn my bad...I completely had a senior moment....will get out there today and post a couple of shots.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

Ford Blue blood

Hope these help.....
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

lalessi1

Thanks!!!! That is a very intresting arrangement.
Lynn

SkylinerRon

Lynn,
A friend w/a 67 Coronet R/T tried an ADDCO bar that needed a similar
mount made up to attach it.

Glad you got the info, guess you will have to fab up something.

Goodluck,

Ron.

Raven Rider

I'm waiting on the final outcome.  My RW doesn't have any sway bars and it corners like a boat full of .........  When I swap out the motor this winter I will put in the sway bars.  So get this figured out soon.  :001:

lalessi1

Well I finally got the suspension put back together and the car is back on the ground. I gave up on the Quickor bar and ordered a Concours bar. I made the following changes:

    '59 upper control arms
    Aerostar springs (Moog CC850)
    Stock spindles (replaced the Gran Torino spindles)
    Wilwood 11.3" brakes
    Moser 3" studs ( so I can add spacers for my wheels to clear the Concours sway bar)
    Moog lower control arm bushings

The results are to this point outstanding. I put the upper contol arms on adjusted all the way towards the rear and I did not use any shims to see how much negative camber I could get. The car is at least 4" lower. The pic shows how much camber I can have now. The Wilwood brakes/stock spindles are probably 15 to 20 lbs lighter than the Torino assembly per side!



Lynn

KYBlueOval

Lynn, looks like you have figured out the front sway bar issue. One question I have........tell me more about the need for longer studs and spacers "to clear the Concourse Sway Bar".
I just received a set of these bars from Concourse and will be installing the front bar soon on a totally bare frame. I'm hoping I can do this with the shocks in place and no coil springs. My brief reading of the "destructions" that came with the bar says to install with the suspension hanging.My thought is that the shocks will limit the travel of the lower control arm with or without the springs in place. What do you think?
Since you just installed this bar, what do I need to know that is not covered in the instructions?
Thanks
John

hiball3985

Lynn,
that looks good. If I was going to do it again I would go that route rather then the Granada spindles I have. Hard to tell exactly how low you are from the picture but after you get the bar on it maybe pretty close to the ground. How much negative camber are planning to run?

John,
Putting the bar on is an easy bolt up operation. I think letting the lower arms hang down a little just makes it easier to get the bolt, spacer and bushings in that connect the sway bar to the A arm. The only thing I remember as a problem was the weight of the bar. Trying to hold it place myself while getting the bracket hardware started. They don't tell you that in the instruction  :003:
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

lalessi1

Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-12-13 07:20
Lynn,
that looks good. If I was going to do it again I would go that route rather then the Granada spindles I have. Hard to tell exactly how low you are from the picture but after you get the bar on it maybe pretty close to the ground. How much negative camber are planning to run?

John,
Putting the bar on is an easy bolt up operation. I think letting the lower arms hang down a little just makes it easier to get the bolt, spacer and bushings in that connect the sway bar to the A arm. The only thing I remember as a problem was the weight of the bar. Trying to hold it place myself while getting the bracket hardware started. They don't tell you that in the instruction  :003:

John, I actually have not installed the bar yet, I ordered it and don't have it. I am assuming the angle brackets that hold the  bar are bolted to the outside of the bumper brackets so I was planning on installing it after I got the bumper on... that will be in a few weeks. I wasn't planning on being able to have this much negative camber so I really will play with it., probably 2 degrees. I wish I knew what the caster is. The upper control arm is back almost 1/4".

On the studs... my understanding is that the Concours bar will hit the tires at full lock with conventional steering if the back spacing on the wheel is more than 3 1/2". That was the reason I tried to use the Quickor bar in the first place. That varies with the individual bar and may not be an issue with rack and pinion set ups because they limit where full lock happens. My back spacing is 4 1/4" so I am thinking I may need 3/4" spacers.


Lynn

lalessi1

Well I finally got my Concours sway bar in and I put it on the car yesterday. Man it is VERY LOW HANGING, 5 1/2" ground clearance.... It is also very close to hitting the frame basically because the car sits so low with the Aerostar springs. Oddly enough I have a LOT of clearance between the bar and the wheel/tire, at full lock I can put my fingers in between them. It also looks like I can raise the bar up by about 3/4" by redrilling the bracket holes. This has been a long expensive adventure.
Lynn

hiball3985

I know mine is low with the Granada spindles and stock springs. I just redrilled the front holes and let it pivot up on the rear bolts but it only gained about a 1/2", more and it would have hit the bracket that holds the core support. I've bottomed it out on a few dips and driveways, the zerk fittings are gone  :003:
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

KYBlueOval

Quote from: lalessi1 on 2015-12-20 14:46
Well I finally got my Concours sway bar in and I put it on the car yesterday. Man it is VERY LOW HANGING, 5 1/2" ground clearance.... It is also very close to hitting the frame basically because the car sits so low with the Aerostar springs. Oddly enough I have a LOT of clearance between the bar and the wheel/tire, at full lock I can put my fingers in between them. It also looks like I can raise the bar up by about 3/4" by redrilling the bracket holes. This has been a long expensive adventure.
Lynn, can you please expand on  "I can raise the bar up by about 3/4 " by REDRILLING the bracket holes" Which brackets are you redrilling? Any photos?
Thanks and Merry Christmas
John