I'd say that was much, Much, MUCH better than mowing the lawn! 
Well done! 

I ended up stripping the middle section and changing it up. I figured it's not really a restoration, more of a custom/restomod:



It may not be to everyone's taste, especially if you're a purist, but I like it better:

I had to change from the tie rod assist power steering to manual steering because of the long tube headers so I ordered and installed a manual center link today, not realizing that the pitman arm was different also. So while I waited for that to come in I installed the front coil overs:



A lot cleaner look compared to the stock setup and I was able to lower my ride height:




I'll lower the rear when I install my 9", it definitely needs it:



...and between the power steering and shocks/springs, I shaved a bunch of weight.

I see the supervisors were in attendance as well.

Looks good...and I agree...who cares? Your car...do what you like! 

Too late know but some headers will clear PS with the installation of a spacer between the frame and steering cylinder bracket.  Another PS bit of trivia...all the Fords that I have converted manual to power (or via versa) that the pitman arm, drag link and idler arm are specific to power or manual.

I like the idea with the coilovers, how much adjustment do you have Id like to put some on the front of my 65 Mustang, years ago I messed up the original coils to get it to sit a little lower now that I'm updating to disc brakes Id like to do it all at the same time.

They claim up to 3", I know I was able to bring the car down from stock ride height 2"

Yeah Gary, I realize that the manual one is usually longer for more leverage, but I wasn't concerned about it right now, figuring if it was really bad, I could change it down the road. What I failed to remember in my old age is that the center link didn't have a ball joint/tie rod end type joint on it and that it would be on the pitman arm instead. 

Mocked up the T5 to see how much I would need to cut out of my tunnel:



It was tight against the floor even without the Transmount Installed:



II traced around the shifter housing and drilled a hole in each corner, then went inside and connected the dots and cut out the hole, remounted the transmission to check for clearance with the trans. mount installed. Then I placed the shifter tunnel cover inside  over the floor and traced it out, then went back about one inch from the line and cut  the rest of the floor out.
I know the shifter cover is supposed  to rivet to the floor inside the car, but I didn't want a rough opening under the car so I clamped it in place under the car and scribed a line around it to remove the coating.



I then traced out the holes and ground it down to bare metal so I could plug weld the cover from the underside:



Then ground down the welds...



...and coated it to match the undersides; to me, it looks like it's supposed to be there:





All I need to do is seam seal the inside and dynamat around the shifter cover:

Looks good! Kind gives the appearance you MIGHT know what you are doing!
The guy who originally cut the hole in my brown Courier could have benefited from such smarts! I could have crawled inside the car through that hole!
Well done Joe!

Haven't really touched the car much; I lost my father-in-law 10 days ago, a really good guy who was a retired heavy equipment master mechanic. he will be missed.

I have been waiting for for my clutch setup and some hardware, so I jumped onto finishing up cleaning the front end, installing the new adjustable strut rods and bigger sway bar.

Cleaned and coated:



Adjustable strut bars installed:





...and swaybar (the motor is being held up by a strap on the sway bar until trans goes in):

All of it is looking great! The usual very nice job to you!!

I picked up a 9" for a Torino in PA last year because I figured the 8" wouldn't hold up:



I Managed to get the 9" over to my buddies this weekend so it could get "cleaned up"



I filled all the pits and primed it with a sandable primer:



...and painted it:

Got the housing back in the car with some lowering blocks:






I like the stance a little better, still might bring the front up another 1/2"

Looking great, but if you plan on any "spirited" driving, you may want to consider eliminating those rubber "ISO Clamp" insulators that surround the leaf spring bundles, where the mounting pads of the rearend housing mount. They are supposedly there to soften the ride, and eliminate some NVH, but are also quite handy for enabling wheel hop, and allow the rearend housing to twist and flex. They were not used on more performance oriented Fords, and can easily be eliminated, although you would need to weld a washer, or something similar, into the housings mounting perch, to fit properly around the leaf springs center bolt. On housings with the ISO Clamps, the center hole is much larger, as the rubber insulator has round rubber sleeves that fit inside the enlarged holes, further contributing to unwanted movement of the housing on the leaf springs.