Thanks, I was seriously thinking about eliminating them, but wasn't quite sure on how to make up the diameter difference on the hole size.
I will probably end up turning a piece of round stock to fill the hole on the axle housing and then center boring it to accept the leaf spring pin.
Unfortunately, I would then have to make one for the spring clamp/shock mount too.

It is not necessary to bush the shock mount plate.  The OE plate hole is oversized.  You'll likely revisit the mounting when you upgrade to a traction device.

Well, I took your advice and went ahead and redid the rear spring mounts.

First I turned down a piece of round stock to fit the OD of the spring perch and bored a 1/2" center hole in it to accept the spring/block pin:



I measured the depth of the hole with the cover installed and parted it



I then bored out the spring cover to accept the new bushing



and welded it in:



For the shock mount plate I opened up the center hole on a large nut to accept the spring pin/nut  and welded that it in also:





Got it all back together and I think it should work. I wasn't sure if I should eliminate the top cover, but I feel it holds the lowering block more securely than it would without it.



I think it should keep the axle clamped tightly in place, but I'll monitor once I get it on the road.

As far as a traction device Gary, I'll probably go with Cal-Trac bars.

Did you also make a bushing for the leaf spring perches on the axle housing itself? I seem to recall the ISO Clamp cars also had oversized holes, to accommodate the rubber pieces, so those holes should also be reduced. On my 351C 4 barrel, and 428 Cobra Jet Mustangs, which didn`t use ISO Clamps, the housing spring perches sit directly on the top of the leaf spring, without that spring cover "clamshell", so it is kinda redundant without the rubber, but certainly can`t see any downside to you retaining them, with the bushings added. I am assuming that the aluminum spacer has the centering hole the same size as the center bolt itself? With any new rear U Bolts, it is always a good idea to retorque them after some driving time, to ensure they stay snug, and check them periodically.  On my Ford trucks, retorquing the U bolts is recommended during certain service intervals, although after the first retorque, they never moved any. On my 59, I am using a set of Lakewood "slapper style" traction bars, no the cheaper ones that just clamp onto the springs, but have a mounting plate that the U bolts go thru, which eliminates the need to keep the factory spring plate/lower shock mounts, as new mounts are part of the traction bar plate. My traction bars also utilize the optional "J Bolts, that surround the axle tubes, and have brackets that support the front section of the traction bar, as a brace, rather than just rely on the bar welded to the mounting plate. I also boxed the leaf spring perches to the axle tubes, to prevent the perches from bending or buckling under hard launches, especially with a manual transmission on drag slicks at the drag strip, but not really needed if you don`t plan on drag racing with slicks.

Yes, I forgot to take a picture, but the spacer that I welded into the "clamshell cover was about 7/8" long and extended down into the axle housing spring perch: and yes, the aluminum spacer has a 1/2" female hole on on side and a 1/2" male pin on the other side.
As far as the clam shell goes, I will keep an eye on it because if the axle loosens up, I may not be able to tighten it if the clamshell contacts the shock mount plate. If so, then I would have to remove it and cut out the bushing (or make a new one) and weld it into the spring perch.

Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.

Also managed to get the clutch assembly installed this week, I went with the McLeod Super Street Pro Organic/Ceramic...






Cleaned up and painted the T5:



....and finally got it installed for the last time hopefully




...as well as the Hurst Short throw billet Shifter

I got a good deal locally on some Cal-Tracs, so I go them installed yesterday:





...still waiting on my rear shocks???

I see your using the standoff block on the t5 bellhousing so you can use the stock fork and clutch linkage, I tried that on my 65 mustang and could hardly push the clutch in, it puts a lot of strain on the fork trying to pivot on the block and put enough force to do its job that's why I went with a hydraulic set up using a slave cylinder to push the oem t5 fork on the oem pivot ball inside the bellhousing how it was intended to work much smoother with a lot less force it was like a night and day difference, I had to change the clutch and pressure plate to work with the hydraulic set up which has a different throw distance when the throw out bearing pushes the fingers of the pressure plate, it was well worth the time and effort for me but you might be fine with your setup.

A revised picture of the slave cylinder, moved it out with spacers and moved the threaded push rod to the outer hole in the t5 fork for even less effort pushing the clutch in, also added a heat shield for header heat.

Here is a good video explaining options from DazeCars, I used his bracket for the T5 and pieced the rest together.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vw5ccEZV9To

Looks like a really nice setup.
The reason I went with the spacer block setup is because I didn't want to modify my firewall. Right now, the pedal seems okay; if it doesn't work out, I can always go this route.
Thanks for posting.

I finally got around to installing my rear sway bar today, they claimed it's supposed to install under the rear axle in the instructions, but there is now way in hell that it could; ended up mounting it on top of the axle:

I went in the house for a late lunch and found that my Moser axles had been delivered; I ordered them Friday afternoon and I received them today, pretty quick service for a "not off the shelf item"











With everything back together, I'm pretty happy with the stance now...

Your rear sway bar looks just like the ADDCO Crown Vic PI rear sway bar I got for my wagon.  Your installation (and my instructions) looks similar to some of the Rangers or Broncos.  Since the shocks on the wagon are mounted behind the axle, it had to be mounted on the front side.

Gary, it is an ADDCO, I believe it's a 965. I called ADDCO and told them it wouldn.t work on the bottom, only would fit if I mounted it on top of the axle, and they said go ahead, shouldn't matter.
I asked if anyone else had that problem and they said yes, lol.