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mustang hydro-boost

Started by RICH MUISE, 2010-05-18 18:22

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gasman826

Saginaw hydraulic brake booster article in the April 2014 Popular Hot Rodding.

RICH MUISE

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll pick up a copy. Hope the article is supportive..I just spent 300. for hose and fittings.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

gasman826

So the $150 hose kit is a deal!

RICH MUISE

#48
Not sure what kit your referencing, but actually the 300 I mentioned included some fuel line fittings. I spent 100 for banjo fittings for the hydroboost and rack, and 100ish for 12 feet of ptfe hose, and also got two s.s. weld in 6an fittings so I can adapt a ps reservoir for the two returns. I still need to find a right-sized reservoir to adapt, get a cooler with AN fittings, and buy 10 areoquip 6an straight fittings. I'm going to have a total of 6 lines on my boost/rack/reservoir/cooler system.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

gasman826

PLUMBING!  Most overlooked cost on the build budget.  Fuel tank, overflow tanks, reservoir tanks, coolers, expansion tanks, gauges, brake light switch, roll control...list just goes on and on with tons of adapters and connection fittings.

RICH MUISE

#50
Yup...I definetly overlooked the cost on mine. I ordered the 10 fittings and a new cooler with an fittings from Summit last night..another 110....for the hydroboost/PS. These pics are what I've got in the last week or so.
The last pic is what I picked up in Lake Havasu..going clockwise,at 1 o'clock are adapters for a Ford style quick change fuel filter to AN6, at 3 o'clock are the banjo fittings for the hydroboost,at5 o'clock are the weld in adapters for modifying a reervoir for 2 returns,at 7 o'clock are 6an/37 degree nuts for the hard fuel line, at 9 o'clock are 3/8x3/8 line clamps, at11 0'clock are banjo fittings for the cavalier rack.
I won't need the adapters for the reservoir, as I found a guy who will make me one with what I need. I'll do a post on that on the 4.6 install thread.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

gasman826

When I was looking at stainless brake lines, I was appalled at the price of each connection compared to steel.  The nuts and ferrules for each stainless connection was five bucks....extra cost, workability, and new tools for the line and the flares was one thing and then add the cost of over $10 for hardware for each line.  Well, I just passed on that one for now.  Later, when my ship comes in, I can come back and redo the brake lines with stainless.

Banjo fittings on the Caviler rack?  Aren't those o-ring to AN adapters?

RICH MUISE

#52
The banjo fittings are a soft washer seal on the machined surface around the 16/18mm holes to a 6AN. Same with the hydroboost fittings. I may regret it down the line, but I also went with the steel/plated areoquip swivel hose ends.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

gasman826

The rack connections are cramped so it will be interesting to see if the banjo fittings help.

RICH MUISE

The port closest to the frame is still going to be tight, but just eyeballing the area, I'm thinking I can just angle the banjo fitting in towards the engine 10 degrees or so and get it past everything with just a straight hose fitting. I'll know before too long...my shoulder is giving me problems again, or still, so I can't start my garage reroofing too soon. I'll just have to work on the '57 for a while longer!
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

#55
When using the hydroboost in conjunction with a R & P setup, should the power steering reservoir be vented or non-vented?
Edit just to keep info together...I had a stainless reservoir custom made with two 6AN return fittings, vented, baffled, and the bottom outlet fitting machined to match the metric rubber feed hose going to the pump. jac Specialties on ebay. 125 + ship. part, service, communication was excellent 
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Ford Blue blood

Vented with or without.  That fluid will expand and contract as it heats and cools during operation.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

RICH MUISE

Thanks....I do recall not to long ago somebody posting about either the rack or the hydroboost self bleeding.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

#58
Quote from: gasman826 on 2014-03-16 09:30
The rack connections are cramped so it will be interesting to see if the banjo fittings help.
A little Banjo music.....
It was hard to get a good shot, but these are pics of the Banjo fitting with an-6 to #6 teflon/ss hose aeroquip fittings temp. in place on the rack and pinion. Both will just come straight up no problem.
Man my car needs a good cleaning.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

#59
OK..got to work on the hydroboost for a while yesterday. I cut the eyelet off the pushrod and got it ready to thread. I enlarged the hole in the firewall, cut off the two lower studs, trimmed the lower part of the mounting plate that was hitting my steering column cover, cleaned off the undercoating in the mounting area so I've got a good solid mounting surface.
Now the inevitable questions...not being sure exactly what happens when the hydroboost has fluid applied to it under pressure, I don't know if the pushrod as the unit sits in a relaxed state is all the way out. With that in mind, can I modify the brake pedal pushrod to fit now, or do I have to wait until the engine is running?
Were you guys that threaded the pushrods for connection with a connecting nut able to do it with just a good die? My cheapo die set is not going to cut it (pun intended)....instead of spending bucks for a good adjustable die set, I'm leaning towards drilling out one end of a 2" connecting nut to slip over the hydroboost pushrod and welding it on, then buying an already threaded adjustable pushrod for the brake pedal
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe