mustang hydro-boost

[RICH MUISE]

I assume you're asking why we moved the firewall hole to accomadate the different position of the hydroboost's centerline as opposed to moving the bolts.....
First, in my case, it is the easier way to do it and members here had previously done it that way with no issues.
Second is the reason we went to the hydroboost in the first place...we needed as much engine clearance room as posible.

[ROKuberski]

Rich,

I know that you have shoehorned a big engine into that car and from the pictures you have posted, it's a great looking install.

As to the relocation of the center line for the pushrod.  I thought that might bind up, but if you guys are having success, that's all I need to know.  Shortly, I am heading to the salvage yard to see if they have the parts that I want.  The information from you guys will give me an advantage on figuring out what I will be doing.

Rich

[ROKuberski]

Bummer, both Mustangs had vacuum boost units.  One was a v-6, the other did not have an engine. 

Rich

[RICH MUISE]

I had no idea there were proportionally so many 6 cyl Mustangs on the road until I started looking for a used hydroboost. I ended up getting mine in Oklahoma City..none to be found in Amarillo area, at least at the time. The place I got it from specialized in used parts for Hi-Po cars...so you know that got the price up. I paid 150. just as a reference.
If we were having this discussion a few weeks ago, I could have checked around town for current availability and brought it up to Colorado if one was found.

[ROKuberski]

Yeah, I would have guessed most would be V-8's too.  However, after looking under the hood in these cars, it would be a real PITA to do anything under the hood.  Makes you appreciate the space we have on the vintage cars.

I can get a rebuilt hydro unit from Rockauto for about $167 and that includes the core charge. 

We just had a rain/hail storm blow through here this afternoon.  3/4" hail so about the only damage here is leaves knocked off.  Some cars may have some damage, but 3/4ths of mine are in the garage.  I don't know if it hailed where my wife works.

Rich

[canadian_ranchero]

the push rod on the hydroboost is not solid,where it goes into the main body of the hydoboost the push rod has a little ball/socket,that allows the push rod to move up and down as the brake pedal is pushed down 

[ROKuberski]

I noticed the articulation in the pictures.  Do you have a stock engine?

Rich

[RICH MUISE]

I'll answer that, lol.........Gary is installing a 4.6 dohc/4r70W from a Mark VIII. Sound familiar?. A little old background...Way back when he(Canadian Ranchero) actually had a Ranchero, he was setting up/mocking up a 4.6 dohc into a parts car to work out the bugs/details, and then was going to do that swap into the Ranchero.. Gary had done tons of research and was the one who convinced me It could be done and I could do it...so I started it, then he disappeared for a few years LEAVING ME TO HAVE TO THINK ON MY OWN...the horrors!!, lol. Anyway, the wagon he now has is getting what the Ranchero was to have.
I guess "Canadian Wagon" doesn't flow as smooth as Canadian Ranchero

[ROKuberski]

Rich,

Thanks for the update.  Before I cut any holes, I will see where it fits best. 

Also, as far as I know the hydro boost unit can be used in any orientation.  I am still considering rotating it 90 degrees and then using the master cylinder that I have now.  I'll have to see how close the mounting bolt pattern is.

Rich

[gasman826]

Flipped my hydraulic booster upside down years ago.  The master cylinder still has to point up but the booster is under pressure and doesn't care which way is up.  The rotation moved the accumulator to the outboard side giving move 460 valve cover clearance.  My booster has a little notch cast into the bottom side face where the master cylinder attaches.  Since there is no gasket for the master cylinder to booster joint, moisture could get it.  Notch allows moisture and condensation drainage.  I put a little dab of gasket sealer in the original notch and ground a little notch in the new bottom side.  Overkill??  Probably.

[ROKuberski]

Gasman,

Thanks for the confirmation on orientation.  One thing that I've also noticed is that the boost unit mount seems to be point up at a shallow angle.  And, the master cylinder is made on that same angle.  I've anticipated that if I rotate the boost unit 90 degrees that I will also have to modify the mounting bracket.  Is yours constructed with the angled mounting bracket?

Rich

[gasman826]

My booster is old...'76 Lincoln.  The original application mounted the booster squarely on the firewall.  My installation on the '57 is square and perpendicular to the firewall (picture 1 & 2).  I have to confess...I cut the Lincoln firewall (about a 9" patch) and welded it into the '57 firewall.  I also cut the '57 peddle support and grafted the Lincoln peddle support onto the firewall end.  I also modified the dash contact end of the '57 peddle support to mimic the peddle support of a '65 Thunderbird donor car to attach to the '65 Thunderbird dash.  Oh ya', the support was also modified for the installation of a Lincoln steering column.  So...my '57 firewall and peddle support are hybrids of the cars the components came from.  I don't make late model upgrades fit my '57, I make my '57 mimic the donor cars' connections and fittings.  I confirm the angles and heights so there are no misalignments or binds and have correct pedal ratios and angle through the swing.

On another note, the Lincoln master cylinder bore was 1-1/8".  The '57 has Granada spindles and disc brakes and the Explorer setup on the rear with a Wilwood manual adjustable bias valve.  This combo gives great brake performance.  I have changed out the OEM master cylinder because the master was 40 years old.  I thought it was due and new Wilwood looks nicer!!!!  My logic was if this brake setup stopped the 5400 lb Lincoln, it should stop my 3500 lb '57 really well...and it does.  Another issue solved by the hydraulic booster is the overlap on the cam is so great to produce 750hp on the 460 there is little to no vacuum to make a vacuum booster work at all.

[ROKuberski]

Holy Crapoly - 750 horses.  Fly me to the moon.  That's more than triple what the factory sent out.  I'd be dead or in jail by now if I had that much power under my foot.

I like the look of the boost unit you are using.  With a little research, the Cardone 52-7076 or 52-7077 are on the 1975 - 1979 full size Ford/Lincoln/Mercury cars.  Readily available in parts houses, but not in salvage yards, at least not in the Denver area.  The slightly larger bore (1.125" vs 1.0625") will reduce system pressure by about 10% for a given force applied to the brakes, but not likely make any difference in use.

Any chance you could give me the center to center measurement for the bolt layout on the master cylinder and the mount to the firewall?  I understand if it's too much trouble.

Thanks,

Rich 

[gasman826]

My hydraulic booster will not mount at any angle.  Right side up with the accumulator inboard or upside down with the accumulator outboard.  Another benefit of upside down is the plumbing is on the bottom.  The master cylinder bolt center is 3-1/8"...fairly common.  I think the Wilwood master cylinder bolt pattern is slightly slotted to accommodate 3-1/4".  The booster to firewall pattern is 3-1/4"H and 4-1/4"W.  I think these boosters have been offered in kits for years by custom car aftermarket sites.  Master cylinder, booster, proportioning valve, and install kit $600-900.  Much cheaper to wander the bone yards and shop for your own stuff.

[ROKuberski]

Gasman,

Thanks a bunch for the information. 

I think I can make an adapter plate that can use the existing 4 bolt pattern for the old master cylinder and then mate up with the hydro boost unit.  Using your dimensions, I made a quick sketch to confirm it should work.  The smaller bolt pattern is for the existing layout (I will use a flat head hex drive screw) and the larger bolt pattern, where I show studs sticking out, will mate to the boost unit.

Thanks for your help on this.

Rich

I revised the adapter plate.