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source for door key lock to latch rods

Started by RICH MUISE, 2011-08-22 12:04

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Zapato

Rich, it looks like if they made it with parallel flats they could be used on either side. Or a right side bought for $5.95 could have a flat filed/ground opposite the existing flat and VOILA you've got a lefty.

Zap- :unitedstates:
Zapato

Cruise low and slow.......Nam class of '72

ROKuberski

Nice picture.  I just went to look at mine and there is no "R" on it.  However, the left one has two little metal "tits" on it.  With your picture, I now know left from right.  I am sure that I could reproduce these with my lathe, but it would be a pain in the buttt. 

Thanks,

Rich

RICH MUISE

#17
I've got extensive machining background, but none of it in high production, so I'm not sure how I'd reproduce these. My guess is the originals were little forgings, posibly made in 2 pieces and furnace brazed in a fixture to clock the flats. I guess the originals could have been investment castings also. I think if I had to make one or two pieces, I'd do it in 2 pieces welded together.
Zap...the "flat" is actually a double flat leaving a thin parallel cross section to fit into a slot on the cylinder, so there is not enough material to add another flat to make a left hand part from the right. however, if the part is weldable, a good welder could fill back the area, then machine it the oposite way.
Looking at my old key cylinders, it looks like these tail pieces are probably alot more durable than the cylinder housing they attach to. On the right side cylinder that still had the tail piece attached, the slot in the cylinder is almost worn to the point where it isn't going to grab the flat on the tail piece much longer, and the original tail piece has almost no wear. On the left side cylinder, the end of the cylinder is broken off.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

ROKuberski

#18
Well, I don't have extensive machining in my background, but I did make one of these devices today.  It took about an hour and a half to do it.  Part of that time was finding materials and lathe and mill set up time.  If I were to make a bunch of them, time per each would go down.  After I get my new door lock, I will see how well my home made one works.  It should be fine.  If so, I will sell the pair that I have.  

I am also toying with the idea of making a modified one that will mate up with the broken end on my existing lock.  I could make a socket for the broken end to go into and put a small set screw to hold it together.

Also, I am still wondering about your photo.  The left device has the small "R" on it.  Are you sure that is not the right one?

Rich

RICH MUISE

The photo was the one the ebay seller had on ebay. I'm sure you are correct and he had them identified wrong.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

ROKuberski

Rich,

I am just guessing that the "R" might mean something.  I won't know for sure until I remove the one on the passenger door to examine it.  I'll try to get that done on Friday.  Thursday is my volunteer day at the Colorado Railroad Museum.  I work in the roundhouse doing restoration work.  Currently working on an 1896 Locomotive.

Friday morning, I go to the VA for a hearing evaluation, it may finally be time for hearing aids.  I should be able to get it done after that.

As to visiting Amarillo, I've done that many times in the past.  It was our overnight place when returning from Houston when we were visiting relatives.  They are mostly gone now, so I don't think we will be there in the near future.  Don't take it personal, but it's not on my top 10 list of places to vacation.

At any rate, I'll let you know what I find out.

Rich

RICH MUISE

Rich..I wasn't too clear on what I had typed about the "R"..what I meant to say is that I'm sure the "R" is for right and the guy that originally posted the picture had the handwritten "left" and "right" wrong.

Texas isn't one of my favorite places to visit either, and I live here. I'm always pissing of the native Texans, relatives included,putting North Texas down. My nephew asked me why I didn't like it here and I just replied because I've been other places. The people here are friendlier than other places I've lived (New England, California, and Colorado)...I just don't like living where you can see where you're headed 25 miles before you get there.
And sooo many cows, but the cowgirls are real cowgirls.
Several neat things about Amarillo though...alot of car people here, and the stashes of project cars and well done show cars all around the city is amazing....I like long weekends doing car things, and I'm within a 4-6 hour drive from Oklahoma City, Dallas/Fort worth(I'm leaving tonight for FW), Denver,and Alburquerque..so it's easy to find plenty of car stuff to do for a nice weekend.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

ROKuberski

Rich,

I would like to confirm that the labels on your photo are indeed backwards.  The small "R" on the casting indicates right door.

The one's that I bought are nor correct. They are 3/8" longer that what I measured for the existing one on the right side.  Perhaps for a car with some thicker trim on the side.  I tried to install a longer one on the right door to see if it fits.  Very close, but it did seem to be binding up slightly.  I think you could remove a little of the length and it would work.

Rich

RICH MUISE

#23
I received the ones I bought on ebay while I was in Dallas ...and mine are not correct either..but the ones I got are about 1/4 shorter than my original, not longer like yours. It sounds like yours are for the squire wagons with the "wood"trim. As soon as I get a chance, I'll check the ones I got to see if they can be made to work. I don't have a clue what mine are for..probably edsel or merc. I did pick up a new set of door lock key cylinder assemblies in Arlington..not sure if they are repros or nos, but at least they are correct.

update:  My ebay purchased ones are too short..but I can make them work by welding two pieces of tubing to the door latch assembly so that the tail pieces fit into the tubing rather than passing thru the holes that they won't reach.
Also..the actual tail pieces I received are not the pair that the posted photo was of.  One has a "5" cast on it where the one in the pic has an "r", and  one has a little tit on each side...I'll have to figure out which is which.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

ROKuberski

Rich,

It sounds like we should swap what we have.  If you want a picture let me know.  Mine need to be like the ones in the picture you posted.

Rich

RICH MUISE

#25
Rich...I don't think I have what you want. Tommorrow I'll try to post a pic of what my old one is compared to the new ones. I don't think the ones I got are for any '57 ford...as far as I know, the custom model uses the shortest of the tail pieces, and the ones I got are even shorter than that...anyway, I'll post a pic so we can make sure.Post a pic of your tail pieces if you can.
I forgot which model you're working on...which is?
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

ROKuberski

Rich,

I have a Fairlane 500 2-Door.  I'll post a picture tomorrow.  I believe it is a 63B.

Rich

RICH MUISE

#27
ok Rich..while the other guys are working on such mundane stuff as drivetrains, racing and throaty sounding exhaust systems..we'll get this really excitin' stuff worked out!...I finally got some pics. the one with the key cylinders is my old original right side unit, along side my new identical key cylinder and the "EBAY" too-short tailpiece. Note the difference in the area above where the spring seats on the shaft.

The second pic shows my really really easy fix for the problem. Had I been able to see what was under the flange, I could have fixed this with the latch assembly still in the car and in about 2 minutes. The brass tubing is refrigerator ice maker 3/8"od plastic tubing fittings..perfect light press fit OD, slip fit ID, length just right!!!
No drilling or reaming..The fitting thumb pressed into the latch body with a few taps with a nylon mallet to seat it. and is a perfect slip fit ID for the center shaft of the tail piece to rotate in. The second piece of tubing I just dropped over the shaft on the elbow, flange down.
Everything works, and works smoothly now.
Well, my computer has decided to lock all my files (read-only M#2!##4%!!!), and won't let me unlock them, so I can't resize and post the pics. I'll get it figured out and post later.
I think I fixed it..
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

#28
btw..I had never noticed before that you cannot lock the doors with the key. The cylinder will not let the key come out when it is in the locked position. I even checked my old cylinder to see if it was the same way..and it is. I wonder what the reasoning is for this.???
When I assembled the cylinder and tailpieces to take the pic in the previous post, I inadvertantly switched the left tailpiece with the right cylinder...so of course, I assembled the left cylinder into the left door with the right side tailpiece...took me an hour to figure out why the door lock wouldn't work.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

wv 57s forever

 are you saying that you cant lock the door on a 57 custom with the key? that's the only way my will lock, cant hold the button in to lock when shutting the door.