4.6 being installed now

RICH MUISE · 2014-05-22 07:52

Once again, not too much getting done as I've been working on house siding. I'm going to post some hydroboost info here even though I was running a seperate thread on it.
I got the linkage made up by cutting off the eyelet end of the hydroboost' pushrod and welding on a 3/8-24 length of allthread. The stock '57 pushrod was cut off and a shortened version a 3/8-24 connector nut was welded to it. With the protrusion of the hydroboost housing in towards the cabin about 3". there is not a whole lot of room to work with getting all the components together. It works, and is hooked up right where I was wanting it (pushrod at rest, brake pedal in spring retracted against rubber stop position), but I don't have any adjustment left if I need it down the road. If that happens, I'll have a 1/2" steel spacer plate made up with a plasma cutter to space the booster unit away from the firewall. I've still got one last fitting to do to finish up the hydroboost/pump/reservoir/rack lines, then on to the Wilwood proportioning valve to finish up the front brake lines....after I verify which port on the master is front and which is back.
In hindsight, were I to do it again, the 1/2" spacer under the boost unit would make it an easier job.
One added note..I had tossed arounfd the idea of turning the boost unit upside down to keep the lines on the bottom for a cleaner look. That wouldn't have worked with the 4.6 dohc..the distribution block on the side of the boost unit would hit the valve cover.

gasman826 · 2014-05-22 20:32

Speaking of tight quarters and no room to work, do you have a way to assemble the Custom truck lock assembly???

RICH MUISE · 2014-05-22 21:29

Now that's a hijack if I ever saw one...I'm sure glad I don't do that.....If you're asking about how to tighten the inside locknut (which I don't have any more cause I've cleaned off my trunklid), I removed mine with a plumber's basin wrench. Someone else had a different idea for that a few years back, but I can't remember what it was.

RICH MUISE · 2014-05-22 22:28

I got a bracket made up from 1/8 x 4 stock to mount the proportioning valve. I thought about making a longer bracket that would put the valve under the boost unit, but as it sits, I've got working room to all that stuff under..steering linkage,o2 sensors, exhaust, etc...so I think I'll leave it where it be!
That engine bay is sure getting filled up. I'm looking forward to cleaning things up a bit when I get to the wiring..particularly getting to remove the spark plug wires and coils. Once the fender wells are permanently in, I can also clean up the hose runs a tad.
Question: right now I've got the front brake lines running to a tee on the frame. I was planning on running one line for the front brakes down to that tee. The proportioning valve I got has one front brake line inlet, with two out ports. Wilwood says one of the two out ports can be plugged, which would work with my original planning, but now that I have that option, I'm wondering if it is better to run two lines from the valve separately to each of the front brakes.

RICH MUISE · 2014-05-26 22:21

I Got the front brake lines all run and connected to the line going to the rears, the prop valve bracket painted and reassembled. I used the NiCopp lines as I had used before.
Next project will be the gas tank, pump, and supply and return lines, filter. When that's done, it will complete all the plumbing for the engine, at least to the firewall. Then I'll get the inner fenders fitted with all the rubber stuff and permantly attached so I can neaten up all the lines and hoses with line clamps.
Also, now that I've got the left inner fender in place for the first time, I'm 95% sure I'll have room for the battery up front (my preference) with some mods and fabrication.

RICH MUISE · 2014-05-30 17:23

I ordered a cop conversion harness today. He is going to make it over the weekend and ship it out Monday or Tuesday. 150. incl shipping. This is one item I could have waited on, but wanted to get one while they were still available. I also used more footage of the teflon/ss braided hose for the steering lines, so ended up short on the same hose for the fuel line connections to the engine. I got that ordered as well.
The mud from all the rain has finally started to dry up a bit, so I spent the day installing a new window in the house...that's 11 down and one to go!

gasman826 · 2014-05-30 18:29

Surprising how quick the braided hose yardage can sneak up on you. Should have bought the whole spool.

gasman826 · 2014-05-30 18:31

This reminds me...anybody need any rubber lined braided AN hose. I'm having a garage sale.

RICH MUISE · 2014-05-31 06:54

Quote from: gasman826 on 2014-05-30 18:29
Surprising how quick the braided hose yardage can sneak up on you. Should have bought the whole spool.

At close to 10 bucks a foot, I thought I was being wasteful buying 2 feet more than I was estimating...lol...if I had bought 3 foot extra instead I would have had enough....need
two 3 foot sections I just can't get out of a 5 foot piece.

gasman826 · 2014-05-31 10:10

I have this hose stretcher that I bought at a surplus GA auction. It will stretch about 10% but not 33%.

RICH MUISE · 2014-05-31 12:25

funny. reminds me of the first time (35ish years ago) someone told me about a metal stretcher. I just laughed, thought he was putting me on.

RICH MUISE · 2014-06-24 09:42

Well, obviously not a whole lot going on here with the install lately. I did get my fuel pump installed into the tank. Note all the fittings are below the trunk floor mounting surface, so there will be no interference there. I also got the new straps cleaned up. Next to do is cut an access hole in the trunk for the fuel pump, and clean up the old L-bolts (I don't like the bolts they sent with the new straps), and add the short flexible fuel lines....then get 'er put in so I can run the hard fuel lines. The tank has the Ni-tern finish, so I'm just going with that..no paint. LOL, I did paint the new straps even though they are stainless...thought black straps would look better than polished with the finish that's on the tank.

JPotter57 · 2014-06-25 07:37

How are you going to actuate your brake light switch? The 57 rod doesn't have a flat on it to cause the switch to work.

RICH MUISE · 2014-06-25 09:34

James...a while back I installed a gm style electric switch on the brake pedal. It's a tight fit, and I barely got it in there, and there is very little adjustment room. It makes contact right beside the rubber bumper stop. I think it'll work, but I have already installed a back up in case it doesn't..... The Wilwood proportiong valve I installed has a low pressure switch on it. There is a pic of the wildwood valve about 1/2 way up this page. I couldn't find a pic of the gm inside one, but I'll get one if you need.

RICH MUISE · 2014-06-30 08:33

It got too hot to work on the house yesterday, got to spend some time on the gas tank install. I got the hole cut in the trunk floor and the tank check fit. When I make the cover for it I will make it also cover the sending unit access hole so I've got one cover instead of two. One change I would have made now that I've got hindsight...Had I welded in the recessed box for the fuel pump another 3/8 or so deeper (probably the max allowable), the fuel lines would not have any clearance issues. As it is now, the lines won't clear the hat section/stiffner spot welded across the bottom of the trunk that has the two support strap slots in it. I'm hoping* to get into the area from underneath with a 3/4 steel rod and a big hammer and just dimple some clearance into it.
* LOL..I tore a rotator cuff earlier this year and had bursitis in it as well..holding a steel bar while hitting it with a big hammer while under a car is much easier said than done..man, gettin' old is a bitch.

News:

4.6 being installed now