Stock Fairlane, drum brakes, want to add boost unit

[ROKuberski]

My car is just about completely stock, but I would like to add a power boost unit for the drum brakes.

I do know that the left side exhaust manifold is very close to the master cylinder and has caused fit up problems for others.

Has anyone done this?  If so, where did you get your boost unit?

This guy description claims his will work.  I've sent an email to confirm about clearance on the exhaust manifold, but he has not answered yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221290160453?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Has anyone used this unit?

Rich

[Tom S]

Did you see this thread?  He used a 7" booster after an 8" wouldn't fit.  Wonder if he got his from the same vendor?
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=4501.msg30965#msg30965

[ROKuberski]

Thanks for the heads up on this other thread.  I would not have looked for it where it was.  I responded to that thread too.

I also got a reply to my question about how his fits.  He says that he provides two brackets and that one of these will work or he will refund my purchase price.

It sounds fine, but I will wait to see where the other person bought his boost unit. 

Rich

[ROKuberski]

My project is almost complete.  Boost unit/dual master cylinder is mounted and connected to the brake peddle.  All of that went quite well.  The bracket fit as advertised and the linkage was a perfect fit.

I have run the new brake lines using the copper nickel lines and that was easier than expected.  I doubt that I will ever buy steel lines again.

I have the air out of the master cylinder and still need to bleed the system, but that will have to wait until Monday.  We have a very busy schedule this weekend.  However after bleeding the master cylinder, I pressed on the brake peddle and I have enough pressure to turn on the brake lights.

Here are a few pictures.

Rich

[Frankenstein57]

Rich, your work and your car look darn nice,  Mark

[ROKuberski]

Mark,

Thanks for the comments, I appreciate them.  When I was a kid, my Dad has a '57 Fairlane 500 4-door hardtop.  I always thought that was a cool car and for a long time, I've wanted one.  So, about 2-1/2 years ago, I took the leap and bought this one.  Since I got it, I've put in about $10k to improve it.  Like many of these projects they are never done, but this one is very close.

Rich

[RICH MUISE]

Nice job Rich. Sound like you were as pleased with the Nicopp lines as I was. I see a black fitting on one of them, which is what jegs supplies in their length kit....did you end up doing your own flairing, or did you use prefitted lengths?

[ROKuberski]

I used a flaring kit that I have and it worked just fine.  The lines were very easy to use.  I used a bender for the 90 degree bends, but the rest I just did with my fingers.  They are quite easy to bend. 

However, the brakes are not working as they should be.  It takes more peddle effort to stop the car now than it did before I started. 

I followed the instructions on bleeding the master cylinder and then did the whole system.  I checked for vacuum leaks and it is tight.  I have 17" of vacuum and that's as good as this car can do at this altitude.  I've sent an email to the supplier to see what he says. 

Even though I can stop the car, it's not safe to drive right now.  I'm bummed.

Rich

[RICH MUISE]

Hmmm...seems like I've replied to this twice, and can't find it. Any progress on getting the lack of pedal power resolved?

[ROKuberski]

Yes indeed, I am making progress.  It turns out that the power boost unit I got was defective.  Now that that's been replaced, I have determined that the new master cylinder is also defective.  The rear chamber works fine, but the front chamber is not.  I just got off of the phone with the supplier.  He already send the new boost unit and he is now sending a new master cylinder.  It sucks that I've had these problems, but it is just bad luck that I have got two defective parts, both brand new. 

If the fault was the other way around, I may not have noticed it as much.  But, with only rear brakes working, you can really tell.  I've read that the front does anywhere from 70% - 90% of the braking.

I just got off the internet looking at what the master cylinder cost, I have his part number now.  It's about $35, plus tax and shipping.  It's harder to determine on the boost unit, but it is likely about $135 - $150 as near as I could tell from the site I found.  His prices are likely better than that, but for the $199 that I paid, including shipping, it was a fair price.  He is not asking for the parts back, so I hope he can get some relief from his supplier.  His price also included the special bracket that allowed for raising the master cylinder 1.5".  Tom is the guy that I was dealing with. 

Rich

[RICH MUISE]

Sounds like the guy needs some kuddos for taking care of his customers. Good for him. PITB you had the problems, but at least he's taking care of them. Problems like yours are what I worry about with a build that takes so many years....how many defective parts I'm going to find out about too far down the road to expect a supplier to be still responsible.

[sprink88]

I have a similar one from oldirishdave on eBay. 7" "corvette" style booster, etc. I actually needed to lengthen the push rod that goes into the master cylinder to get the pressure to stop. Found 3/8 FINE thread allthread rod at my local Fastenal.

[ROKuberski]

Sounds like the guy needs some kuddos for taking care of his customers. Good for him. PITB you had the problems, but at least he's taking care of them. Problems like yours are what I worry about with a build that takes so many years....how many defective parts I'm going to find out about too far down the road to expect a supplier to be still responsible.

Rich,

Without a doubt, you may have either a new or good reused part fail, but you are far down the road to a very fine vehicle.  I look forward to seeing your completed project photos. 

If I was smarter, I would have figured out that both parts were defective at the same time, but it is what it is.  Our weather is about to make a major change.  I should have the new part by the end of the week, but I won't venture out to test it out until the snow melts and it warms up again.  I will take the master cylinder apart and see if I can figure out what the problem is with it.  It may not be too big a deal.

Rich

[Frankenstein57]

Sounds like the guy needs some kuddos for taking care of his customers. Good for him. PITB you had the problems, but at least he's taking care of them. Problems like yours are what I worry about with a build that takes so many years....how many defective parts I'm going to find out about too far down the road to expect a supplier to be still responsible.

I bought stuff on sale, and set it on the shelf for years, my headliner was for a 59, and Ecklers bought out dearborn while it sat on the shelf. Bought a brake booster from an outfit in Iowa, turns out poor packaging left it damaged, sat on the shelf for 3 years, no help

[RICH MUISE]

oddly enough with this thread in mind, the used part I'm most concerned about is the hydro boost assembly I bought a few years ago. How long was it sitting on the car in a salvage yard? Why was the car wrecked to begin with..bad brakes? Are these like radiators, in that using them for years then sitting in storage is much worse than continued use?
Fortunatly, at least I have almost zero worries on the engine, tranny and everything attached. I really lucked out there finding a low miles car at a salvage auction that was driveable, so I actually got to drive it a little before pulling it apart. Add to that I was able to contact the original, and only, owner of the car who verified it was a totally trouble free car since he bought it new in '95.