update on Rich's build

[RICH MUISE]

No problem, Bill.
I finally got my brake kit in tonight about 6pm...was starting to get worried. I found out from labels covering other labels, the Summit brake kit is made by StainlessSteelBrakes (SSB). I'm going to call them in the morning and verify the offset this kit was made for. Strangely enough, there is no mention of offset anywhere in the instructions.
Hopefully I can get positive info on that, otherwise I'm going to have to assemble one side just to see where the rotor lines up with the caliper.
opps...just realized I can't do that as the axel hub is too big for the rotor, hmmm. OH well, I'm sure they've got to know what offset the brake kit was made for. After I verify that, I'll pull the axels and get them returned to the shop so he can turn the hubs to match the rotors and remachine the shoulder (I think....depends on what SSB tells me) for the correct offset to match the kit.

[RICH MUISE]

BTW, this kit says "minimum 14" wheels", so after I get it all together, I'll check fit it against an oem 14" Ford wheel before I put my 15's on.

[RICH MUISE]

I'm still waiting for the axels to get done. I did get the brake line from the frame to the junction block on the differential done. I couldn't find my old breather bolt for the block, and the one I ordered from Mac's was the wrong thread, so I just made one from a 7/16-20 hex bolt.

I discovered the master cylinder brake line I recently replaced was in fact still leaking. Since I already had another replacement metric adapter on hand, I decided to try tightening the new line a little more with the same resulting stripping as first time, although this time I know I didn't overtighten. I didn't want the brake fluid leaking out all over while I was trying to figure out what the heck was going on, so I grabbed a 12" premade brake line and bent it in a "U" so the open end would be above the reservoir. As I was tightening it, I thought, "what the heck am I doing, the adapter  is stripped, so this line is going to leak as well." Well that thought was wrong, the premade line tightened right up and I even put more pressure on it than I normally would just to test it with no problem at all. So, in a nutshell, I think problem solved...it was actually the tube fittings I got for the NiCopp lines that were the problem, not the adapter. Never even gave the fittings themselves a thought. I just continued forming that premade line and hooked it up at the proportioning valve end as well. That connection also felt much better.
I'll continue testing it and eventually make another NiCopp line to replace it, but this time I'll get some different tube fittings!! The tube fittings I was having a problem with are not the ones that came with the length NiCopp tubing. I had run out of those just as I was getting to the mastercylinder/proportioning valve and if I remember correctly had bought some more locally.
The pic is of the Monroe shocks we've been talking about, and the flex line to housing. The differential is not being supported at all except by the springs, so it's in a fully-down position.

[hiball3985]

Strange, I would have thought the block also. Where did you get the fittings so we can avoid them? Actually my first thought would have been the flare.

Is the bolt just temp until you get the right one? I don't see a breather hole..

[Ford Blue blood]

I'm still a steel line kinda guy!  Used a NiCopp line on the 61 Unibody from the fuel pump to the carb.  Could never get the fitting to stop dripping on the fuel pump end.  Change the pipe/inverted flare fitting on the pump to no avail.  Not sure if it leaked on the carb end as I concentrated on the fuel pump.  Replaced it with a good ol steel line and problem fixed.

Yep, steel lines are a pain in the you know where but I have never had a failed connection or leak with them.  I will continue to use them despite the "easy" workability of the NiCapp.

Rich if you have a drill press put the bolt in a block of steel or aluminum that you drilled and tapped for the block bolt.  Screw it down in the block with out changing the table on the press, set it to the lowest speed and drill a hole down through it using plenty of WD-40 to cool the bit.

[RICH MUISE]

The breather bolt is already done. From the end of the bolt, I drilled a 1/8 hole almost thru, then drilled a cross hole just under the head....similar to a banjo bolt for a brake hose. I ground off / relieved some of the thread just under the head, and I then widened the split on a thick split ss lock washer so the hex head wouldn't seal off the breather.
I don't think the problem I had was with the flare on the tubing...just the threads on the fittings. I may have mispoke earlier on what fittings they were, because the ones I had a problem with are black, and the ones that came with the tubing are black. maybe a posibility the brass material the adapters are made from is softer than other fittings I used?? Maybe just one bad fitting?? Something I'll have to keep an eye on for sure...short drives, then check ALL the connections. At this point I'm 95% sure it's "just" the fittings and not the tubing.

[hiball3985]

I just noticed yours looks like the brake fluid goes through the brass block

[RICH MUISE]

Forgot...I also finally got the trunk seal installed. It's a good thing I put a back up manual release cable on the latch, because at this point with the seal being new, it's putting too much pressure on the latch for the electric solenoid to pull it free. I've really got to slam down the trunk to get the latch to catch. I've got the catch that mounts in the trunk as far up as it will go without reworking the bolt slots. I'll let the seal settle in with the trunk closed for a few months to see if I need any rework.

[RICH MUISE]

Jim...the bolt I'm talking about is only the mounting bolt for attaching the brass connector block to the differential case. The block's mounting hole is not tied in to the brake line holes. That bolt also doubles as a breather for the differential case to prevent pressure build up...really nothing to do with the brake lines itself. It's posible it was a pipe fitting, but I couldn't find a pipe thread that fit, and the 7/16-20 fine thread bolt worked great.
Just saw your edit. Yes, the fluid goes thru the block. The oem setup may have been a hose with the brass junction block as one unit.

Also, something I didn't mention about the second NiCopp line also leaking. My first thought was the flare as well, even though they looked good. I remade the line with new tubing, but not even giving the fittings a thought, I cut the first one apart and reused the same fittings on the second line. When I remake the NiCopp line for a third time, I'll use fittings from a different manufacturer!!

[hiball3985]

I got mixed up Rich, I can't remember what car I worked on last year but it had a tapered bolt for the brake fluid flow through the block. I see your block is different and I don't remember what the OEM block looked like. MY memory is getting worst every year 

[RICH MUISE]

What you're describing is what I will have on the rear caliper hoses.

[RICH MUISE]

Too darn cold to work in my garage tonight, but I did just get home with my reworked axles. Yahoo!!

[RICH MUISE]

build thread update to keep everything together...if any of you were following the thread I started on the axel bearing lube, you know I discovered, (thanks to you guys) I have new style ends/bearings with the end cap drilled for the old style pattern. The Stainless Steel Brakes kit I got was made specifically for the old style ends, so the only problem I'm having is getting the correct shims to preload the tapered bearings at the "proper end play". The problem arises due to the fact the old style bearings, for which the kit's shims were designed for, are a different height than the bearing I have with the external seal. This should all work out fine, once I find out for sure what "proper end play" actually is, so I can shim accordingly. I reported on that thread I got the end play down to .006, but after mounting my rotor and being able to get a better grip on the axel, I discovered more in and out movement than I thought I had. It is actually about .013.
Aside from that problem, I'm really happy with the brake kit so far, and for sure the problem is not due to the brake kit, but the axle rework I had done. Thru shimming, I've got the caliper pretty well centered on the first side, but I'm not going to do a final buttoning-up until I can get some more info on the end play.
Looking at the e-brake cable connection, it appears there may be some interference with the cable getting over the leaf springs. I had thought about using 1" lowering blocks to eliminate the 1" added height the 6 leaf springs gave me, so now with the added e-brake cable clearance problem, I think I'm going to pick up a set of blocks and get that done before I try to assemble the cables...which I don't have yet anyway. The lowering blocks should allow the cable to clear.
The u-bolts that I bought with my springs have about 1 1/8 of extra thread, so I shouldn't even need new u-bolts.
Minor stuff that chews up so much time...the flex hose that came with the brake kit is just the right length to reach the junction block on the axle housing and have enough . The only problem is the hose has a female end to accept a brake line tube, and the block of course has the same. I don't even know if they make a union that's male/male. I haven't found one yet. Female unions are common for joining two brake lines together.

[RICH MUISE]

This morning I realized there probably is a reason for the .006 movement changing to the .013 I now have...I forgot had temporarily left off a plate because the supplied bolts were not long enough, and I needed to wait until the bolt suppy store opened today.

[RICH MUISE]

Good morning so far. I'm now armed(with info) and dangerous!!
I called a differential supply house and the guy I talked to was very helpful, and fully knowledgeable with all the components I'm dealing with, including my specific brake kit.
First, the bearings that are on the axles are a matched set of separate components (Timken). The bearing and the outer race are supplied as separate matched components, so  the "shouldn't be separated" some had told me does not apply to these. When I commented I was considering changing to the more common sealed bearing, he strongly suggested I not do that (he lost a sale there!), that what I had was a better set up. That was music to my ears!
He also told me my thinking these bearings were a different height was incorrect, that after the seal is tightened down on the bearing, they are the same height as the early big sealed bearings. He told me the shims that came with my brake kit for the old style bearings would work just fine with these. He did mention I should confirm that the outer races are in fact seated fully in the end cap, that if they were not, it would explain my thinking they were higher.
End play...he told me basically all the in/out play should be eliminated or almost eliminated, all the while checking the axle rotationally to make sure the bearing is not binding. Very similar to what you'd do on a front wheel bearing...tighten the nut then back it off 1/8 turn.
I did find the bolts I needed as well...1/2-20 x 1 1/4 grade 8 hex bolts. 2 bucks for 8...I love Amarillo Bolt and Supply. My next stop netted me an Earl's brake line adapter that'll connect the caliper flex hose to the junction block.
I'm good to go. Hope I don't hurt myself doing it, lol.