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update on Rich's build

Started by RICH MUISE, 2015-05-07 23:40

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57 imposter

Hey Rich.. Just spent about an hour trying to get the G.M. mirror to work as a door mount on the right side. If you can see out of yours, how the heck did you do it? The best I could get had me looking way off in space to the right. never was able to get it even close. Set the same mirror up as a fender mount and it worked fine. I know the issue is that the wrap around windshield makes you mount the mirror too far back. right now it looks like I am going to have to go with fender mounts and if that's the case, I am going to use my Yankee Tri-Bars. Got a mounting secret?

RICH MUISE

Did you by any chance end up with two left side mirrors? Where these are slanted there are right and lefts. That would of course have the mirror's upright  leaning in towards the vent window and be pretty obvious. The only thing I can think of is maybe we chose different places on the door enough to change the range of where you can adjust them? I'm kinda stumped because I didn't have anyproblems setting the mirror where I wanted. If you need more pics or dimensions, let me know.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

57 imposter

The box it came out of was marked R.H.  Can you see down the side of your car? If so then maybe a mounting location would help. We taped up the door and tried various locations but had no luck.

RICH MUISE

I just got back from being out all day. I'll get some pics and dimensions tommorrow. Yes, I can see down the side.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

#334
Hope this helps...I've got short legs, so the last pic is the view from the driver's seat with the seat up. The view down the side gets better if the seat is back further, but if I remember Doug, you're a short guy like me....makes it harder to get enough adjustment in the mirror. Where my mirror is adjusted in the photo is all the way in. I would actually have it set out further for driving. At least on the door where I have it, you can reach it for adjustment from the drivers seat, and if it's not on the fender, it won't be in the way doing engine work.
One other question...the mirror's pivot is offset from the center of the mirror. Do you have the embossed emblem at the top when you're trying to adjust?
I know I mentioned this before, but after driving my wife's new car with the back-up camera and right lane camera, I'm 100% sure they're going to be on my car before too long...especially with my rolled pan in the back.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Ford Blue blood

Perfect pics Rich!
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

RICH MUISE

Another frustrating day waiting for my E-cables. Today is the third business day in a row where the tracking said it was out for delivery before the end of the business day.!
Cancel that...as I was typing my wife told me the ups truck just pulled up....yahoo.7 pm...at least they're working late to get caught up.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

57 imposter

Thanks Rich....That is pretty closet to where we were trying mine. Somethings not right as you have an excess of inside adjustment and I am not even close to where you are. Ill try it again using your measurements and see if it helps. It might be just the difference in seating positions cause I really am a mile from where you are.

RICH MUISE

#338
Hope you can work it out. It's stuff like this that totals up to add months or years to a build.

pics of my e-brake cables. Once I get everything on and working (my exhaust where it's temporarily at now may be in the way of the cables), I'll do a thread with pics and part numbers on the disc kit and cables. I did play around with them for a short time tonight, and at least the brake end should work out just fine. I have to do a small mod to the calipers, but at least from there back to the bracket on the frame near the front of the rear springs looks good. I haven't run them back to the bar on the tranny crossmember, but since they're copies of what Bob had made for his, that should be ok as well.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

#339
Had a good day even though the temperature wasn't cooperating. As I mentioned in the previous post, I took the caliper loose so I could get to the boss with a 2" disc and ground off enough material to get the cable casing's fitting installed with the retaining c-clip. Quick and easy. I had just enough slack after installing  the foward fitting into the frame bracket to add a hose clamp a little further up the frame to keep the casing from rubbing the leaf spring. I hooked up the front end to the equalizer bar, and much to my surprise when I checked, I had no interference with the exhaust system at all. Yahoo. That was a big worry, even though my exhaust is only fitted temporarily. At least I know the exhaust installers can do the same when they refit everything. I added red arrows to the last pic...it's hard to see the cable.
I also remounted the wheel and tire and checked to make sure there was no interference with the caliper hitting the wheel.
I ran the cable a bit different than the disc brake company suggested. They supplied a bracket fot the cable to be run/e-clipped to. I didn't have room for the bracket, but based on what I was looking at, I don't think that was the oem way of doing it anyway. Stainless Steel Brakes would have had the bare cable running thru the big hole on the boss I reworked. Control Cables's cable had the fitting on the end with the correct diameter to fit that hole.  see the first pic.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

Tommorrow on to the second side. BTW, it looks like my back end is about 3-4 inches higher in the back now with the new springs and shocks. I may fit in better with the off road crowd than the customs, lol
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

lalessi1

Rich, man, the quality of those cables is off the charts from the pictures as is the installation! Did you see the improvement in changing the rear wheel/tire you were looking for? Clearance? What is your rear wheel width/B.S? I am in the early planning stages for my rear suspension rebuild. Are you planning on a rear sway bar?
Lynn

hiball3985

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2016-01-05 19:59
Tommorrow on to the second side. BTW, it looks like my back end is about 3-4 inches higher in the back now with the new springs and shocks. I may fit in better with the off road crowd than the customs, lol
It should settle down after you get some miles on it. Or add some sand bags in the trunk for traction  :003:
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

JPotter57

Dont forget to make sure your shackles are flipped so that the spring eye is at top...
1957 Ford Custom 427 2x4 4 spd
Old, loud, and fast.

RICH MUISE

#344
Lynn....after I get the second side finished up and the wheels back on, I'll do a check all around the back at the suspension and the fender for clearance on both sides. Offhand, I'd say that with my setup as it is, the tire is pretty well centered between the fender lip and the bracket for the bumper stop above the axel. I think that bracket is the closest thing on the inside, and next would be the leaf spring.
The wheels are 7" with a 4.25 backspace, tires are 235/70-15, and the housing was narrowed 3/4". With the car jacked up by the frame, I had no trouble whatsoever getting the tire on..probably had an inch or more of clearance. Also the '55 Monroe shocks are on as well. At this point, my thoughts are narrowing the housing any more than 3/4" would be a posible issue with suspension clearance, and installation of the disc brake kit.
Rear sway bar...no plans at this point, I'm waiting to see how the car handles with just the 6 leaf springs. My guess is probably not needed for me.
I had purchased the front cable from Dennis Carpenter, and was happy with that as well, but the rears needed something custom made, and I lucked out with Bob/57Agin having all the info I needed. Cost on the rears was 91ish including 15 for shipping. I was really pleased with them. I have not adjusted the overall setup yet of course. My initial thought when hooking the front of the drivers side rear cable to the pivot bar was the cable could have been an inch longer, as I just got it on with the connector piece all the way to the end of the threaded rod. Once I get all the slack pulled out and everything adjusted, I'll have a better idea if that "1" longer" thought will still apply.
I had brought this up before, and I don't know if we ever got a definite answer, but I had noticed in the catalogs they used the same part number for oem rear cables for '57 Fords without reference to it being a Custom or a Fairlane platform. It seem to me that Fairlanes would need rear cables 2" longer than Customs. Anybody know?? It wasn't something I needed to get into when I ordered mine because Bob's info was for a Custom like mine.
James....the shackle is in the correct position as you mentioned. I checked it as I was lowering because I had noticed with the axels hanging down all the way, the position could easily have gone either way. As far as my car being up higher, I still have the passenger side on a jack,btw. Probably won't make that much difference though.
Jim...yes on the settling if I ever get these brakes finished up. I'm planning on a month or two of driving before I start changing anything. My avatar pic is with the old springs still in the car, and no shocks at all. The fender well was approximately level with the wheel. Setting my car down on the one tire in the back, and the other side still on jacks, the fender well is now at least 3" above the wheel. Bring on those floodwaters...I can handle it!!
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe