update on Rich's build

[RICH MUISE]

Some success today....got the rebuit alternator back from the shop and put in. Volts never got over 14 on the gage. I haven't verified it with the meter yet, but appears to be good. They did call me this morning to tell me the cost would be 98, not 65. The alternator is a 120 amp Lincoln unit, and they had quoted me the 65 based on a Ford alternator (my error actually, when I first went in I asked if they rebuilt Ford alternators with internal v regulators).
I took it out for a 30 mile spin around town. Really handles much better with the new ride height and alignment. I'm not sure if the next size wider replacement tires I went to (215/70-15) made a difference in the handling one way or another, but they sure look better.
I'll be anxious to get the engine codes eliminated and see if I can get this thing to idle a bit lower. Driving around town, I've got to keep my foot on the brake to keep it in the 30mph range where needed. I'm told there is no physical way of adjusting the idle speed on an efi...??
I've been working on my horn electrical problem today finally. A while back when I was driving it, the horns just started beeping all on their own...eventually blew the fuse. Reasoning and confirming that the issue has to be between the horn button and the fuse panel, which does have a built in relay, I started eliminating sections of the wiring as potential sources of the problem/short. I do have a identical unused relay on the panel, and I did switch them out just to confirm it wasn't a faulty relay, and it wasn't. There is a connector for the horn wires up close to the steering wheel, and unplugging that eliminated the problem, so that should indicate the short is not before the connector. There are actually two wires on that connector, a brown, which is ground, and a pink which I guess has to be ground also, but I need to confirm that on the schematic and see where that goes/comes from. That's where I'm at now. Tomorrow I'll pull the covers of the Mustang steering column and get a look at the wiring on the backside of the ribbon/coil. I guess that coil could also be a potential source of the problem.

[gasman826]

This is likely way out in left field, but I recently had issue with a Continental horn tooting sporadically and throwing codes.  I had no history on the car but it had light frontal damage but not enough to deploy the air bags.  It turned out that the collision had caused the driver to hit the steering wheel hard enough to start to collapse the steering column.  It wasn't visible but enough to intermittently short stuff out and set codes.  Probably not your issue but maybe your column was whacked a little too hard!

[RICH MUISE]

Not that far fetched, Gary. I had columns from two Mustangs. One had an exploded air bag, the other did not.  I believe it was the exploded one I used because the first one I got had damage to the ignition key switch and plastic covers from someone jimmying the lock to steal it. More importantly because this type of a steering column is not collapsible in the areas where the wiring runs, and all the wiring was replaced anyways, EXCEPT for the ribbon coil. If I ended up using the ribbon coil from the one with a deployed airbag, it could have had damage to it that is not visible.
I did not get into the column today to check it out. Was spending too much time driving it!!....and finding new issues.
New issue for today: three times after driving the car for 1/2 hour or so and shutting it down, it would not start. No starter/solenoid engagement at all. The first time I was at Dunkin Donuts and spent a while checking wires, etc After about 15 minutes it finally connected and started right up. When I got home it wouldn't engage again. After 1/2 hour it kicked right over. Just to see if there was consistency, I took it out again for 1/2 hour. Same thing, when I got home and tried restarting, I couldn't get starter engagement until 20 minutes later. I don't have a clue where to look. The ignition switch (and key switch are the old oem Mustang stuff, I don't know if an ignition switch can heat up and cause the problem...I'm more apt to think it's in the solenoid/starter that I recently replaced with a rebuilt unit. Tomorrow I'm going to check the wiring and grounds connections.
Just cause I built this thing doesn't mean I can fix it.

[billd5string]

The description sounds exactly like an old Chevy problem where the solenoid gets overheated from the headers. I always thought it was funny one of the easy fixes for that is to install a ford solenoid and bypass the one on the starter.  It may not have any relevance to the problem you are having, but it might be more evidence that your suspicion of your starter/solenoid is correct.

[lalessi1]

My car was doing that as well, turned out to be a loose engine to frame ground on mine. Checking the grounds is a good idea.

[RICH MUISE]

My solenoid is on the starter, and the exhaust runs within a few inches of it. Later today I'm going to jack the car up so I can get down there to check the ground straps, etc. I'm also going to stuff a fabric welding heat shield between the exhaust and the solenoid and take it for a ride to see if that resolves the issue.

[RICH MUISE]

I did the above...didn't help.

[Sandiaman]

Is your horn working? I don't know the year of your computer set up but after  1996 the horn acts as a capacitor for the computer. That's why it is always hot. Horn works without a key and honks whether on or off.This also keeps the memory in the computer.If you have a theft deterent type set up it may be going into that.If your throwing codes you need to get the horn to work then your computer will reset.

[RICH MUISE]

Wow, that's interesting., but no, my system is 1995. Also no, I haven't got the horn to work yet.
Sounds like you're into this computer stuff....be careful how you answer, Albuquerque isn't that far, lol! Theft deterent system...no pats, other than that I'm not aware of anything in the computer. Nothing was added to the car as aftermarket theft deterent. Also, the horn isn't a new issue. The fuse has been blown for 6 weeks or so. The no start when hot issue started right after I had the problem with the alternator overcharging.....may be a tie-in there?

Unfortunately I have to set the car aside for a few days in favor of house cleaning duties. We just found out we have relatives coming in Wednesday. This is always fun since we converted our second bedroom to a huge closet. Guests = we sleep on the couches!

[RICH MUISE]

Finally got something fixed...my horn is now working, and the best part, it's only working when I want it to, lol. It was the clockspring/electrical coil. probably shorted out from previous damage from the airbag going off in the donor car, as Gasman suggested. I found one in the local u pull it yard that was in a car that did not have the airbag exploded. (easy to tell, all the exploded airbags are still there, all the undeployed ones have been removed.)
I did also replace the ignition switch to see if that was the cause of my hot start issue. I now have positive proof that was NOT the issue. I also picked up a new starter mount solenoid, but have not talked myself into jacking up the car and being a contortionist to get it installed. At this point, I'm 90% sure I'll end up adding a remote solenoid. I'm trying to figure out where I can put the remote and still use my $100 battery to starter cables.

[gasman826]

I'm thinking that you're not gaining anything by adding a remote starter relay.  The 4.6 style of starter still requires an operating solenoid bolted to the top of the starter.  If the OEM solenoid on top of the starter IS the problem, it will still be a problem with the addition of a remote starter relay.

I was also wondering about some of your drivability issues.  Do you have a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT?  It sounds like you're running in open loop.  If I remember correctly, you remove some of the systems...EGR, catalytic converters, one set of O2 sensors, converted to COP, and maybe some other stuff.  Did you have the ECU reburned/recalibrated to support these changes?

[RICH MUISE]

Thanks for the reply, Gary.
Apparently this was a common problem and fix with the Chevy people, as bill5string said. since staring my inquiry, I've had 1/2 dozen guys tell me the same thing, and actually the starter/alternator shop here in town also told me that. Her's a link to a how to do it article I found that explains the "why it works" better than I could.
www.novaresource.org/starter.htm

Yes, I do have a check engine light, and a code reader connector plug. The ce light comes on after about a minute of driving. The engine code /open loop stuff I had to but a bit further down the priority list. The only issues so far (when it is driving) are it is in open loop, but actually liveable for now. I just don't have the power at heavy throttle. The open loop is because of the engine codes being thrown.
I kept all of the EGR stuff, actually replaced all of the old egr valve, solenoid, etc. with new stuff before I put the engine in because I knew it would be nearly imposible to reach once the engine was in place.
I did remove the catalytic converters and the two rear o2 sensors, but the Ron Francis kit supposidly was designed for that mod.
I did convert it to a simulated cop. The computer thinks it is sending one signal to a coil pack which normally fires two cylinders. All the replacement conversion harness does is physically send that signal onto 2 wires feeding the appropriate 2 cop's.
A true cop conversion would have to have a cop based computer that sends out 8 signals instead of 4. Could there be an issue there?? absolutly, but it'll take a shop set up to work with OBD I systems to check it out. There are no such shops in this area, hopefully some time in the next year, I'll get it up to Denver where it can be checked out. LOL...just need to refind that contact info I had.
One guy in Phoenix I talked to who knows these systems said he suspected a bad maf sensor, based on the codes I could remember it throwing. I did put in a new MAF sensor also, but we all know that doesn't necessarily mean it was a good one.....one of the problems with trying to check out a complete build all at the same time....you just don't know which component of a system to target.

[RICH MUISE]

just to add.....I really went thru alot of work/extra effort to keep this car set up with a factory unmodified computer. The Ron Francis kit was suppose to do that. My reasoning is simple..I didn't want to be broken down on the road somewhere 1k miles from home needing a computer that was reflashed by someone who can't be found any more. I have a back up computer sitting on the shelf now, and will look for another. I did recently find out these computers can sit up to 20 years not hooked to power and still remember/hold the oem programming. Some time down the road, I'll have to switch computers just to recharge them.
When I can get to it, I'll need to determine if my issues are bad engine components, a miswiring, or a RF harness problem. My lack of mechanical/electrical experience sure ain't helping any! I'll start by clearing the codes it has stored and getting a fresh readout after a drive, then calling Ron Francis with the results to see if he has any recommended solutions/areas to check.
What I am finding out now about the scarcity of shops that can work on OBD I systems, is probably the ideal year, at least as far as Mark VIII's are concerned, is probably 1996. It's the first year for OBD II and pre pats.
I may end up having to have the computer modified, but I'll do what ever to avoid it if posible. Actually the biggest annoyance right now is the idle speed. I've been told the idle speed cannot be manually adjusted, it's controlled by the computer. My throttle cable/body seems to be working freely, but the car idles at 35mph once it starts rolling. A pain in traffic, and obviously not good for the brakes.
The oem Mark VIII catalytic converters that were removed, btw, came right off the exhaust manifolds and had heat shields built in to them. I think that's the reason I'm having hot start issues, or it could be just caused by a cheap rebuild of the Advance Auto starter/solenoid I put in when I was wiring the car up.
I have already purchased a new oem starter mounted solenoid. That may resolve the issue in itself...I just don't hold out much hope, and until I found out about the computers needing a solenoid with suppression diodes, adding the remote solenoid seemed like the best fix.

[gasman826]

...and you say you're not computer literate!!!!  If not, you'll get there.

I've been looking at one of the Ron Francis Telorvek kits for '96 4.6 Cobra.  It is a different kit than yours.  The Cobra kit requires ECM reflash.  So every time I make a change, ECM goes off to RF for reflash at $350.00.  I've been asking around about using an aftermarket, user programmable ECM like FAST, BIG GULP, etc.  I'm pleased with the RF chassis harness and RF is the only 4.6 harness supplier I've shopped so far.  TIP:  When ordering RF chassis harness, stress extra long wires...especially taillight and headlight wires.

My thought on the idle speed is directly related to running in open loop.  If other fault/faults were fixed to get into closed loop, the idle would come around.  Google (or other search engine) is your best friend.  Search "1995 Lincoln 4.6" and your code or condition.  If you have a problem, somebody else has had the problem.  It has been asked and answered on some forum somewhere.

As far as the catalytic converters having heat shields and the need for replacing the heat shields, the cats were much hotter than a straight through exhaust pipe.  But there are a ton of heat shield products on the market.  A piece of aluminum or steel sheet can easily be fabbed with an air gap and attached to the suspect section of pipe with a couple of hose clamps to reflect heat away from the starter.

[canadian_ranchero]

we need to see some codes.with the codes i can help give you guidance on where to look for the problem.i am surprised that there is no one in your aria to work on obd 1,it is a simpler system in some ways.