update on Rich's build

[RICH MUISE]

Really interesting article, Lynn. Thanks for finding and posting that. Mine is from tanks inc, as was the remote one in the article, but mine is not a remote. I'll have to do some more research and get back. Unless I misconstrued something somewhere, My fuel pump mounting plate had a tapped hole for the vent tip-over valve. So makes me wonder what's up with that and how that differs from a remote valve. I mean in how many applications are the fuel pump mounting plates  going to be higher than the filler neck??? none I would think.

[Ford Blue blood]

Don't agree with the mounting point for the device itself.  OEM tanks in everything I've taken apart have the valve in the tank.  The vent line is then routed to the highest point in the system and then to the front of the car for the carbon canister.  The OEM systems on new cars have a sealed gas cap so gas in the filler is not an issue.

For us routing to the highest point and then down to the exterior should do it.  My 36 is vented at the cap.  There is no gas odor in the garage (2 car attached) except when there is a freshly filled tank.

They are correct in the "p trap" discussion, it will self clear with a burp or just plain ol driving and using gas from the tank.

[RICH MUISE]

Ok...saw your reply Bill, and remembered I was going to check out the Tank's inc info Lynn mentioned. Tanks Inc does have two vents. Mine as mentioned is mounted on the tank itself. The accompanying note says to exit the line at a higher point than even the filler neck, and to avoid low spots where the gas could build up.
Their remote valve is accompanied by a diagram which if I interpret correctly, is showing the remote vent as the termination of the vent tube. I agree with Bill that the location doesn't seem like it would be that critical..... UNLESS.....the valve cannot act as a passthru type where the valve could be located somewhere along the line. If it has to be at the end, then the location higher than the filler neck would then make sense.
I have not had any more splash out since I moved the vent tube to a higher location at the tank end...time will tell if it needs further modification.

[RICH MUISE]

While I'm working on a bathroom remodeling, I'm also prepping for some of the winter jobs I want to get done on the '57. I never was able to get my aftermarket TPI Gages, inc. speedometer working, and they are no longer. My friend at the speedshop around the corner has put Speedhut gages in 1/2 dozen cars and has had zero problems. The Speedhut gages are some that you design froma wide variety of choices in all the components. The dilema I was having was that I could have gone with just a speedometer designed to match pretty close to what I already have and not bother changing the other gages out, but I came up with a design I like better. I ordered the new design speedometer tonight, and will add the others down the road when I have the $. It's a GPS speedometer, so no screwing around with pulse generators, etc. Just wire in and go. Delivery is 10-20 days.
www.speedhut.com    I'd post a pic of my design, but they are png files...pain to open.

As I mentioned elsewhere, I also picked up some copper tubing to rerun my gas tank vent tube.
I need to install an additional 12v outlet. With my GPS plugged in, I'm always running into a dead cell phone on my 2-3 day trips, or my electronic cigarettes need recharging, etc.
Speaking of electronic cigarettes, I've now been over a year since I've smoked a real cigarette. These fake ones help my breathing compared to the real thing, but one of these days I'll kick those too.
I need to order some new fixed window seals for the back side glass and get that finished up as well.
Those are my next 4 projects.

[RICH MUISE]

Forgot one...I'm going to be fiddling with the idle speed issue I'm having. I need to eliminate some of the potential causes as Canadian Ranchero and others brought up.
I picked up some cleaner for the throttle body and idle air valve and have found some You Tube videos that were helpful identifying and discussing the related components, like the throttle position sensor that also need to be looked at. One video I watched mentioned the fact that if the throttle position sensor is replaced, and I may do that since it's only a 30$ part, the computer needs to be cleared by unhooking the battery so the computer can relearn what the idle speed is suppose to be. After the ICU is cleared, they said to start and run the car in Park idle for two minutes, then in-gear idle for two more, and then in gear with A/C on for another two.

[Ford Blue blood]

Rich if you want to clear all the old codes and don't have a reader short the negative battery cable (after removing from the battery) to the positive post for ten to fifteen minutes.  This will ensure all is gone.

The computer will need many start and run (to heat soak) cycles to be really smart.  My 98 LSC took about a week of running to and from work to get back to acting like it was supposed to and being good.

I agree with replacing the TPS and the IAC.  Be careful with the cleaner as some MAS do not like having that stuff anywhere near them.  Be sure to check the calibration of the IAC, couple of tenths will make a difference.

[RICH MUISE]

Thanks for confirming my thoughts on replacing some components. The engine now has about 60K miles on it...low, but it is 21 years old now. I wasn't going to clean the MAF since I put a new one on it when I installed the engine, and I'm aware that the throttle body cleaner cannot be used on the very delicate MAF.
I do have a reader, btw that will clear the codes. Just to confirm what you were telling me...disconnect both the ground and positive cables from the battery, then hook just the ground cable up to the positive battery post for 10-15 minutes, or after disconnect, hook the - and + cables together for 10-15 minutes while still attached at the + battery post??

[Ford Blue blood]

hook the - and + cables together for 10-15 minutes while still attached at the + battery post??

Yes, the positive lead can stay connected if you like.  Given you have a reader it will wipe out all when you clear it....no need to do the battery thing.

[mustang6984]

FYI...there is actually a specified cleaner for MAF sensors. I have had to use it. In fact...I now have 2 cans of it...since I had to buy one on the road last spring. And auto parts place should have it. But specify it is MAF sensor cleaner.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for confirming my thoughts on replacing some components. The engine now has about 60K miles on it...low, but it is 21 years old now. I wasn't going to clean the MAF since I put a new one on it when I installed the engine, and I'm aware that the throttle body cleaner cannot be used on the very delicate MAF.
I do have a reader, btw that will clear the codes. Just to confirm what you were telling me...disconnect both the ground and positive cables from the battery, then hook just the ground cable up to the positive battery post for 10-15 minutes, or after disconnect, hook the - and + cables together for 10-15 minutes while still attached at the + battery post??

[RICH MUISE]

Yes, thank you. I hadn't bought it yet as I had installed a new maf sensor when I finished up the installation, so for sure less than 10K miles on it, but I was going to check it visually at least when I pulled thing apart to work on the throttle body stuff. I'm in Phoenix for 3 or 4 more days, and I've got to finish up a bathroom remodel project that got interrupted last week, so not sure when I'll be able to get back to the car.
My new Speedhut speedometer was delivered yesterday! Yay!, now if I were only home to look at it and compare it to my old one.

[mustang6984]

Phoenix eh? Have a buddy who is a Ford nut works as a cop there. If I knew you were down there, I'd have set you up with him and you two could have had some fun...he has Mustangs...3 of them at the moment.

I'd mail you one of these cans if it were sensible...not sure what I am going to do with two of them! LOL!!!
When I get the body down off the tire stacks and back on the frame, and of course running...I'll have to take a trip to Amarillo...and have some BB-Q...on my way to my home town of San Antonio!

[RICH MUISE]

I've never been to San Antonio, or anywhere further south than D/FW in Texas....maybe next year. If you're ever going thru Amarillo on your way home, let me know.
We have been coming to Phoenix twice a year for the past 5 years, but my wife's Uncle Jack died almost 2 years ago, and this past week it was Aunt Bobbie. Fortunatly we left Amarillo for Phoenix at 10pm last Saturday, and made it in time for my wife to spend a few days with her before passing. We're just helping my wife's cousin get thru this and get the normal stuff straightened out before we leave for home. Connie's cousin no longer has any ties to Phoenix, so after she sells 2 houses, she'll be moving to either Albuquerque or Amarillo. I'll probably spend some time here later helping to get the house ready to sell, then it'll probably be good-bye to Phoenix.
There is a forum member from Phoenix I've been able to meet up with in the past. I'll be giving Jerry/RavenRider a call later today to see if we can get together again before we leave.

[mustang6984]

Sorry to hear about the loss of family...especially hard at this time of year.

I go through Amarillo often when making the run down or back, especially if there is a stop in OKC included, which there often is, as my wife's sister & her husband live there, as well as their aunt and uncle. So...we will be seeing one another at some point...and since my wife is enamored with the Courier...it will be in that ride!

[RICH MUISE]

Cool. We're heading back to Amarillo in the A.M. I was able to meet up with Jerry/Raven Rider today. We were staying in SW Phoenix, Jerry lives 58 miles away in Mesa, so took a little better than an hour to get there and 1 1/2 to get back thru the Phoenix traffic. Jerry's Ranchwagon is down for modifications, but that is one solid car! He's getting anxious to get it back on the road.
I found out Jerry also goes thru Amarillo several times a year to visit folks in Oklahoma, so we may meet up again even though I likely am on my last trip to Phoenix. Anyway, we spent a few enjoyable hours just talking cars and he brought me to a neat 50's style diner for lunch.
My Speedhut speedometer was delivered while we were here.

[mustang6984]

Speedhut speedometer? Never heard of them. (but then..as stated elsewhere on another day in another thread...I've been out of the car racket for a few years...9decades). Is it a different option that the stock one? Or does it work like the original...only better and in the same bezel?

And I know what you mean about Phoenix traffic. My buddy was stuck in it in his patrol vehicle once...and he said cars all around him were dying off because of the heat and their air conditioners. Worse...he said having his "Kojak" light was of no use...because no one could move to get out of his way so that HE could move! LOL!!! I think he is ready for retirement...as that will mean moving to a much less populated part of the world!