1957 country sedan build

[mustang6984]

I had to replace the ones in the Bronco...and didn't feel like driving 10 miles into town. Took an old bicycle tire tube...slit in to a single length of flat rubber...then cut it to length needed for the tank straps...and viola' done! Still on there over 25 years later. Back yard mechanickin' at it's finest!   

[1930artdeco]

Well I got a few things done today and got stymied by a few things. First off, I got the shocks and sway bar out. I poured about a 1/4 cup of red tranny fluid out of the PS pump reservoir so I am hoping that means the internals will all be good still.

The bad, how the bloody hell do you get the PS valve off? It is only held on by the pitman arm but I can't seem to get her to budge, short of a BFH and I can't get a decent whack at the ball stud. I am also trying to get the idler arm bracket off the frame. I got the two bolts off but the last bolt that goes through the frame got torqed on by someone, so hard it mashed in the frame under the bolt head .

Next up is get the springs out in two weeks and then lube the snot out of the upper and lower A arm bushings.

Mike

[Tom S]

... how the bloody hell do you get the PS valve off? It is only held on by the pitman arm but I can't seem to get her to budge...

I don't have one to look at so .....
If what you're saying means that you want to remove a tapered rod end stud from it's female seat you might try it like this ... if you can get at it like this.
Or back up the side opposite of where you hit with some kind of heavy dolly, real big ball peen hammer head, big-ass rock, etc. 

[1930artdeco]

Tom,

I have the nut loose and moved it out so that I could whack it and not the threads with a 5lb sledge. But I could not get any real good whacks at it. The manual says not to hit the valve body as damage may result, which is why I was concentrating on just the stud. Right now I have her soaking with kroil. Would a tie rod pickle fork work?

Mike

[abe_lugo]

Tie rod end pickle fork but you most def. ruin the boot every time. 

[Tom S]

Tom, I have the nut loose and moved it out so that I could whack it and not the threads with a 5lb sledge.

I don't think you're gonna get anywhere by tapping on the end of the stud. Got to beat on what's holding it & that must not be able to move or flex since that will dampen the blow.
This might work & it doesn't damage the boot. I did use one but it was on an old import type car. I still had to beat on what was holding the stud before it would let it loose. It was really stuck in there.
You just leave a deposit & borrow the tool.

https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-equipment/loan-a-tools/steering-and-suspension-loaner-rental-tools?intcmp=LAP:ADT:1:20200320:20200000:BRA:LAT-Suspension

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-tie-rod-end-puller/oemtools-tie-rod-end-remover/409628_0_0

[gasman826]

X2 to what Tom said in post #77.  All other methods will likely damage something you want to reuse.  Pickle forks are the greatest for removing tapered studs that are being replaced.  The little press like tools usually work on very lightly pressed studs.  If the stud is really stuck (which most are), the tool will fail or the stud threads will be damaged and still not get the stud removed.  The 'hammer on the side of the pitman arm' is the only and best method that will yield reuseable parts.  Unfortunately, there is very little room for error when swinging the hammer.  So I have substituted an air hammer with a blunt or hammer head chisel for the hammer.  The most stubborn studs will pop right off.

[RICH MUISE]

First..it's nice to see you back and posting again, Tom! We've missed your input.
I second the AutoCity Classic recommendation for the gas tank. I got their tank with the Nitern (?) coating. It's held up great for 5+ years now....NO rust. If The new tank straps I also got from them are stainless and came with rubber strips. I replaced the "J' mounting bolts with an eye bolt by putting a sleeve over the bolts that went thru the mounting bracket. I had some leftover snow and ice shield from insulating the cabin, so that's what I stuck on the top of the tank as an insulator. BTW, that Nitern tank coating welds wonderfully if your doing a tank mod for an internal fuel pump.

[1930artdeco]

I have a chance at a drive shaft that came out of a 54 wagon, it came with a stick and a Dana 44 diff. Will it bolt up to my car if I use a stock tranny? I know the slip yoke will have to be changed.

Thanks,

Mike

[mustang6984]

Me being me...kinda anal about somethings...I'd have one made...no muss...no fuss...faster and while some expense...less aggravation overall. But that's just me.

[1930artdeco]

Apparently, Ford used a different u joint in 54 so I can?t use the drive shaft. Oh well. I have other things to keep me occupied.

Mike

[djfordmanjack]

second Hughs opinion ! The og 57 driveshafts were not so great to start with. and even if you could use a 54 it will always be weaker.
A new one will be built to your specs, new yoke, new U joints, and balanced. It should be affordable and will be a perfect fit to your application.

[glr7533]

I agree with the others about having one made. It saves a lot of aggravation and possible damage to other parts. I measured for mine and took the dimensions to the shop and had a new shaft a couple of days later that fit. Here is a site that shows how to measure for your  shaft.
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/how_to_measure.html

[hiball3985]

I had a new one made when I installed the T85 and later rear end. It's a solid diameter not like the tapered one that was in it when I got the car, close to $400

[RICH MUISE]

I have a different drivetrain than you, but I am using an unmodified aluminum driveshaft from the Mark VIII donor car. Unmodified except conversion u-joint available at any part houses...napa, O'Reilly, etc. (Not sure if the input spline on the MKVIII driveshaft matches what your tranny has.)