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1957 country sedan build

Started by 1930artdeco, 2021-03-21 00:57

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mustang6984

Okay...here are two pics of the Fairlane floor. Appears the toe-board does indeed go UNDER the floorboard...as everyone was thinking...undoubtedly to as Terry said, keeping that "scooping" effect out of the equation.
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

1930artdeco

Update. Had to cut the pass toe board out as it was just toooo thin and had holes in it. Here is the new one being test fit. I now really hate body work.The tunnel side and top are done, just the outside left to trim up and fit before welding it in.
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

mustang6984

Too bad I'm not still in WA...I kind like the metal work. I'd have come over from Port Angeles to help out.
Lookin' good though...it'll get there.
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

djfordmanjack

#588
Mike, don't worry or hate too much. Just get going and you will fix this. Depending whether you TIG or MIG weld, you may want to adjust your panel gap. TIG needs a close fit, MIG will need a small gap. like 1/32".
if you MIG, you can use your clamps for butt welding, which provide the correct gap. Or, you can put some spot welds on the close fit patches, and cut the gap with a thin cut off wheel in the air grinder or electric angle grinder. Either way you will achieve good weld penetration. If you MIG a narrow or no gap buttweld, the metal tends to warp and/or crack from behind. you can overcome this by cranking up the Amps, but it increases the chance to burn a hole, if you keep at it too long. DO NOT attempt to weld long welds, like 1, 2 or 3 inches at a time. it will heat and bend the metal and warp everything badly. try to weld in pilgrim step spot welds around the perimeter, an inch or so apart, and repeat setting spot welds next to each other, around the perimeter, until you are fully done.
Good luck !

1930artdeco

I just hate trying to cut out the bad metal/rust up to good solid metal and then trying to fit a panel into the spot that I just cut out. It is very frustrating to say the least. If there no curves and I could get to the back side I could cut n butt (ala Fitzee) but noooo...there has to be a body mount right behind it.

I am hoping to finish the fitting of the panel this weekend-in between all my chores and other things that have to get done. Then maybe next weekend I can tack it in and then get going on it in earnest.
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

mustang6984

FITZEE A welding God!  :003:
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker