The U-Joint will slide to side in the yoke.  I measured 0.100" of total lateral movement.  I have a friend that was teaching automotive technology at a local community college.  He said that 0.030" was allowable.  I assumed that is measured from center to max off center position.  In that case, my movement would be 0.050", almost double the allowable.  When you look at the stops in the yoke you can see that it is well worn.  (My new LED work light make it very clear this was a problem.)  I'm guessing that there was a time when the bolts were loose and that caused the wear.  My new yoke will arrive today.  I'd post a picture if I could. 

After all the money I've been spending under the hood, today, I ordered new carpet for the interior.

Rich

Not that it matters now, but I'm curious what you are using for a driveshaft since you went to the AOD. Aluminum? When I did my setup using the Mark VIII driveshaft, I changed to a 1" extended differential yoke that used a heavier u-joint than the OEM '57.
You are aware that there are actually very few u-joint "bodies". The large variation in joints comes from different caps that have the same size needle bearing diameter, thus making a conversion joint pretty easy to do. I think that includes variations in length, diameter and style. (I wanted to underline "length")

Rich,

I am using the stock drive shaft with one minor modification.  The shaft is about 1" too short so I bought a new front yoke that is 1.5" longer than the stock unit.  It's from Ford and is a heavy duty racing unit with a 1310 - 1330 U-Joint (I think I'm remembering that second number correctly. )  It has to have the 1310 on one half to mate to the existing driveshaft.

By the way, I had the vibration before I altered the drive shaft.

I did get the new yoke for the differential today.  That needs to be replaced regardless.

Rich

PS - Do you have any idea when the ability to post photos will be restored?

Rich
OK, I asked because there were two different U-joint cap diameters for Ford 1310 style connections.  Some were 1.062" diameter and some were 1.125", so obviously a 1.062 cup would be loose in a 1.125" yoke.  Ford reportedly increased the diameter to keep the cups from distorting if over tightened.  However, it sounds like that's not the case with yours.
Be sure to use a new crush sleeve to set preload when you install the new yoke.

James

I'm going to be surprised if in fact that .100 movement is due to a worn original yoke. My money is on a wrong u-joint, or more specifically, a wrong u-joint cap.
How does your new yoke measure between the ribs/stops compared to the old one?
I don't know any more than everyone else about the posting photos issue. I know James is working on it when he can, and hopefully he can find a solution.

Well Rich, be surprised. 

Prior to deciding that my yoke was defective.  I found the proper dimensions, and checked mine.  I also measured the out to out on the bearing caps on the U-joint and I measured the diameter of the bearing caps.  Everything is just fine except for the yoke and yes, it's 0.100" too wide.  I just put the new yoke on the end of the drive shaft and it's a perfect fit.  I assume that all 1310 type U-Joints are all the same.  The one I have in the car I put in right after I got the car 11 years ago (12,000 miles ago.)  The original joint was shot.  Rust in the caps and some of the needle bearings were broken.

I'm also not sure how you get a wrong U-joint cap.  I went to the parts store, asked for a replacement for my car and got one that fit into the driveshaft.  There must be a thousand cars that use the 1310 U-joints.  11 years ago, I would have taken the drive shaft to the basement where I have a large vice and used sockets to drive out the old caps and reset the new one's.  To put it back in the car, I would have crawled under and done the job with poor lighting.  Now, I can do this standing up with good lighting.  It's likely been defective as long as I've had the car.

I should get this replaced this afternoon. - Well, that's not going to work.  I should have checked on parts first.  Crush sleeve and "O" ring will be delivered Wednesday.

I also forgot to mention that all of the damage is on one side of the yoke, so it could have been way out of position.

Rich

I've got the pinion out of the differential and all of the bearings, race surfaces and gear look great.  I've also determined that even though the new yoke is a little tight, it will fit fine.  The "O" ring and crush sleeve are supposed to arrive tomorrow.

Now, I am thinking that I ought to remove the entire gear assembly.  I have a very minor leak and I've already bought the gasket for this eventual project.  In my life in construction, we would call this "scope creep.'  The scope of the project continues to increase along the way.

I found online that the gear assembly weighs 68 pounds, that likely includes the pinion assembly which is already out of the car.  I will contact a friend to assist with this, I don't want to damage me or the gears.

Rich

Any wisdom on installing the crush collar?

The original manual says Tighten nut until it takes 8-12 inch lbs of torque to rotate the pinion bearings.

A search of the internet turned up a listing of all torque values for all Ford 9" differentials.  This one says.
Tighten nut until it takes 15-20 inch lbs of torque to rotate the pinion bearings.

That's almost double what the service manual says.

I did get the gear set out of the differential this morning, installed a new gasket and cleaned up the case and put it all back together with new axle seals too. 

Just keep in mind that the 57 9" is a one year design, so other listings are probably for later 9".
Setting up pinion preload and ring and pinion backlash is something I leave to the professionals, I always remove the third member and take it to them..

No, I did not know that '57 was a different differential.  This website lumps all 9" units together.

https://www.strangeengineering.net/ford-9-inch-torque-specs/

I'll stick with the information in the '57 manual.

I've never done this before, but I'm not worried about it.  Even if I screw it up, another crush sleeve is only $5 bucks.  I watched a pretty good YouTube video on the process and I have a friend that taught automotive technology at Front Range C.C. and if I need him to assist, he will.

Rich

PS - I did look for something about the differences in these differentials, but did not find anything except this; https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/ford-9-inch-differentials - it does not mention differences with the '57, but does note that it was the first of the 9" differentials.

The 8-12 in Lb value is typically for used bearings and the higher value is for new bearings.  I clamp the yoke in a large vice on my heavy steel work bench and use a 4 foot cheater pipe on a breaker bar so that I can add load in small increments.  Tighten a little and check rotational torque, repeat until you achieve the required torque.

James

Rich, Too bad we can't post pictures but the main difference in the 57 compared to later is in the pinion area, 57 will have a large seal, later a small seal is the easy way to see the difference.

Yes, I do have the large seal.  I am guessing that the skirt on the yoke it to protect the face of the seal.

Now, as to the crush sleeve adjustment.
It is entirely possible that I am either the most skillful or most lucky first timer on adjusting a crush sleeve.

I got the correct size crush sleeve today.  When I got home from the RR Museum, I put the pinion assembly together and cranked the yoke into my vise.  It took quite a bit of torque to remove all of the play.  I checked the amount of play with each stroke of the wrench.  I went from zero turning resistance to 5 inch pounds in one stroke.  I then cranked lightly once more and tested the result and got 9 inch pounds.  I am stopping at this point.  I am between the 8 - 12 as noted in the manual and I think it would be easy to do too much.  Two crush sleeves came in the package, they are assuming that there is a good chance of screwing up.

Rich

That is good news 

Quote from: ROKuberski on 2022-04-15 15:56After all the money I've been spending under the hood, today, I ordered new carpet for the interior.

Rich

Can you give a little more info about this?  Is this the molded carpet with the heavy jute backing and where did you order from?  I will need to order carpet sometime down the line.