I have noticed that 'Quality is Job #1' was not in the ethos of Ford back then. But then again I don't think quality was job one anywhere in the 50's. Thanks for the advice I will smooth things out and then paint and prep for a new windshield at the end of the month. Then it is off to rewiring the car!!!!!

Well, I have smoothed out the little sharp spots on the pinch weld area and after feeling it again there were not as many as I initially thought. But will continue to strip it down and prep for paint and then gasket. But, what do people use for the tiny little screw for the trim?

Also, I am beginning the rewire (Ron Francis) process so will be asking a lot of routing and assembly questions-sorry guys for questions that I am sure have been asked before. Since I am starting off with missing original parts, how do you secure the two wires that go from the Regulator (A/B posts?) to the Gen? I know they have to go along the radiator support somehow. I figured the F post out (it goes along the firewall). I am planning to use loom conduit instead of wrapping everything in electrical tape. Or does it come down to make it as clean as possible?

Thanks,

Mike

Never did put the little screws back in.  The "L" on the trim keeps it in place very well.  The Edsel did not have them and the trim was still in place after many miles.  Did not put them in the Ranchero either.  No issues so far.

I ended up taking the dash out and am glad I did. I didn't want to initially but I think it will go well in the end. Since it is out I might as well replace all of the house insulation that Ford installed-or someone installed. I know Dyna Mat is the really good stuff but I saw some at walmart (3/8", 3/16", 1/4" thick) That is foil backed and has a sticky surface for installation. I was thinking of using the 3/8 in the roof and on the floor as well if it will work. Anyone tried the 'Car Elements' stuff from walmart?

Mike

I have been looking for some Country Sedan emblems for my rear fenders and some wind deflectors. If anyone has any, please let me know. I am not on here often because of being busy but if you could email me at rm_grizzle@yahoo.com I would be able to get the message quicker and thanks for any help.

Guys with the dyna Matt stuff I used some blue foil stuff found on Amazon. The sqft price was the best on it and it was free shipping.  There is a thread on dyna Matt alternatives on the  Hamb.

Are you happy with it? Just curious.

Just my 2 cents...on the roof, you want to use the lightest weight sheeting you can find. Otherwise, a hot day could cause a heavier sheeting to come unstuck and fall against the headliner. For the roof only, I used a foil-backed bubble-wrap type. I found it at Lowe's.
Everything else, I used a house roofing product called snow and ice shield. Seems to have worked great, but how do you know? It looks like Dynamat without the printing.
Another suggestion, is when you do the floors, go as high up on the firewall as you can. I didn't, and I sometimes get more heat coming out from under the dash than I'd like on a hot day. LOL, might just be my drivetrain though, my 4.6 runs cool internally, but externally it throws a ton of heat. I've seen my garage go up 5 degrees after pulling in from a drive.

 

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2022-10-21 09:17roofing product called snow and ice shield. Seems to have worked great, but how do you know?

I should add, I also applied 2 coats of paintable undercoating to the outside undercarriage, and after por-15'ing the inside floor, and the 'snow-roof" stuff, I used 3/8 foil-backed jute for under carpeting.  No issues with exhaust heat coming up from the floor.
There is a trick to installing that 3/8 foil-backed jute.
 

I got some foil sticky backed stuff from Walmart that is an insulator/sound deadener in two thicknesses. 1/4"-for the roof and 3/8 for the floor/firewall. I will have to derust the roof and then I will cut and stick it up. The floors/firewall will be a bit more of a challenge. I am also in the EARLY process to see if I can get the wheel well covers reproduced for the wagon. Wish me luck.

Mike

I am trying to replicate my wheel well covers and need some ideas on how to get them off in one piece. There is a chance that I can get them 3D printed if I can get them out of the car and take them down to the printer. But as you can see they are a tad broken up. Any ideas on how to get them out with out crumbling and preserving the texture?

Those wheel covers are pebbled vinyl that are heat molded.  The best case scenario is you make a buck (2 mirrored- each side)  and you find the vinyl- or maybe a thicker version, and basically vacuum form it onto the buck.

I have actually done this with regulars plastic and wooden and foam patterns, I think 3D printing this doesn't really make it the same. as its really thick vinyl
It will be hard to get a pebbled with 3D printing as you have to fin print it and then finish the surface. and it will be a hard surface that will see a lot sun wear and may crack worse than the original.


If you want to carefully remove it,  try denatured alcohol.

There are guys that would sooner, use a heat gun, and soft shape the cracked areas down and use a filler to fix the cracks, then just paint. 

I'd consider making a steel cage, covered with chicken wire then fleece. The fleece is sprayed with liquid rubber on the backside, then saturated with por-15 on the topside. A little quick sanding and it's ready for the vinyl glue-down. Chek my pics starting on post 39 on the link below.
https://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=5795.30
In your case, for the frame work, I'd use something easy to form by hand...maybe 1/16 x 3/8 or 1/2.

I also did the side panels for the rear seat area that way. Look at the middle pic. in the link below.
https://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3518.msg21046#msg21046
BTW, I much prefer the por-15 method instead of fiberglass.

Abe and Rich thank you very much for the tips and info. I may have to go the mold and form route, I will have to wait and see what the 3d guys come up with. I will be asking lots of questions if I go this route.

I now have a deadline to get the car up and running-May of 23 so that I can drive down to Petaluma for the American Graffiti car show. So, I will be going full bore now.

Mike

Quote from: 1930artdeco on 2022-10-26 16:21I now have a deadline to get the car up and running-May of 23 so that I can drive down to Petaluma for the American Graffiti car show. So, I will be going full bore now.

Mike

I kinda thought you WERE going pretty much full bore!

So...how is WA? You are in Everett or Bremerton?