4.6 being installed now

[RICH MUISE]

daily progress report...lol....more often than not, a daily lack of progress report. Got the drivers side downpipe shortened, got the tranny crossmember temporarily back in place. With the downpipes just barely snugged so I can wiggle them a little, it looks like it's just going to take a little tweeking to get both the emergency brake setup and the h-pipe installed. The drivers side downpipe is a close fit. Since shortening it, it is turning in towards the h-pipe just over the bracket for the emer. brake cable. It is not jammed in there, I can still move the pipe around a bit, so I can live with that. I may trim the bracket a little after I get the h-pipe attached. I also have to tweak the bracket that holds the pivot bar downwards a little. Currently it is angled upwards, and may not even suppose to be that way to begin with, so a little straightening, bending, or coaxing here and there and the cables should clear just fine.
I do have to modify the h-pipe. Shortening the two downpipes caused the two ends where they attach to the h-pipe to be further apart than they were. I just need to lenthen the crossover piece of the h-pipe. This will also give me the opportunity to make other adjustments if needed.

[RICH MUISE]

I so slo....About all I got done today was get the h-pipe cut into 2 pieces, and put in place to see how much I needed to lengthen the cross tube. After determining that I went out looking to see what was available, and found this perfect flex-type connector. They have them in different lengths as well as diameter, and I was able to find one that will work.
The flex pipe I'm using isn't all that flexible in the short length I needed, but it will give me some flex to help get the h-pipe seated properly to the downpipes. Under the braided ss cover is a ss flex tube. The pipe dia just inside my cut lines is a snug fit for the h-pipe.
I couldn't find any sensor hole plugs to close up the 2 extra ones I don't need, but I did find 2 steel freeze plugs the correct diameter. I'll just weld them in.
I did play with the e-brake cable a little bit and got them pretty much clearing everything. I do, however want to change the angle the e-brake cable is exiting the bracket from. Next time I pull the tranny crossmember, I'm going to cut the bracket and reweld the face at a downward angle. Yep, I know, my little drawing on the bracket in the pic is showing backwards from what I'm going to do.

[Frankenstein57]

Where did you get the short flex pipe?  I have a mustang H pipe mocked up on the 57 and I need a shorty.  Mark

[RICH MUISE]

Oreilly's. Here's some finished pics. Really gave the H-pipe alot of flexibility once it was welded...more than I thought. It leaves you able to adjust either side of the H without moving the other. I suspect there are more sizes being made than what o'reilly's had on the shelf. Mine was the smallest they had..was just what I needed. I didn't have any problem with fumes/welding, so I suspect at least the inner portion that I welded to was stainless...not galvanized. I also welded the two extra O2 sensor bungs closed.
I also "adjusted" the e-brake brackets so they cleared everything. I've got to go back in tommorrow and lower the passenger side of the H-pipe a little more just for some aditional clearance at the yoke.
LOL...Glad someone is finding my posts helpful. Mustang H-pipe? That kinda surprised me from you, Mark....I guess I can't remember what your working on drivetrain-wise.

[Frankenstein57]

Looks nice, you are making good progress, you should have fire in the hole this spring If I can get back in the shop I can post some updates, this job I have really cuts into my shop time,  Mark

[Ford Blue blood]

Nice work!  Got that bad boy going now!  The rest is easy....

[RICH MUISE]

Thanks guys.This is as far as I'm going with the exhaust until I hear the right system. LOL...got on the flowmasters website audio where you can pick a car, then listen to audio of all their different mufflers. I couldn't tell one from the other.
Got the new O2 sensors plugged in. Today I'm hopefully gonna get back to the shifter and get that finished up, then onto installing the VintageAir condenser and dryer so I can get those lines made up. I temporarily mounted the hood hinges so I'd know how to route things.

[rlibew]

Yes I have resolved the paint and body issues, in fact came out of booth Wed 12/11/13 and looks great, even with out cut and buff,which is being done now.
As for my loud exhaust comment, I drove it without windows , hood, trunk or insulation, car sounds and drives great. Now in the next few weeks all the small detail will come into play and take time.
Rich I tried again to post picture but no luck, I did sent some to you via your e-mail address hope you receive them. As for posting I don't have a clue about Avatar or not, I do understand sizing of pictures but just can't make it happen. clueless in California     

[RICH MUISE]

"Runs and drives great"...that's awesome. Good to hear. What are you running for exhaust on it?
Call me when it's convienient for you and we'll figure out what the problem is posting. Also great to hear the paint is looking good. Can't wait to see pics..haven't checked my email yet.
Rich

[rlibew]

My exhaust consist of stock cobra manifolds connected to 3" with H pipe and  ran though  3' FLOWMASTER mufflers located under rear seat area in front of rear axle. The exhaust pipes exit just past the rear wheels at the quarter panels, did not want them out at the rear bumper. If I was to give a better description the exhaust exits much like 70's Torino's or Nova's of the era.

This was quit a feet, with the rear end being narrowed 2 " and lowered 3",  the guy doing this job had worked for Gale Banks and definitely had the skill set for this task. He did this with car on jack stands, the system is all mandrel bends and clearance everywhere needed, fantastic job.         

[RICH MUISE]

How 'bout driving it over to Texas so I can hear it. btw, no pics in the last email I got from you.

[RICH MUISE]

Got my Markviii shifter installed where I wanted and operating. It is slightly stiffer than I'd like, but it'll be just fine. I will work some pb blaster into the mechanism and cable. The Mark viii boot on the shifter cable luckily fit the hole I chewed in the floorboard pretty closely. Tommorrow I'll get some sealant put on the boot. I'm going to make a maybe-temporary bezel for the console to try and pretty it up. I may eventually have a billet one machined, but for now it will be vinyl covered wood. I also have to decide if I want to keep the black shifter knob or look for a grey or tan one.
As big a pitb as fitting the shifter was, it would have been imposible without the access panels on the side of the console. I'm sure glad I put those in. I just run springs from one carpet covered panel to the other side to keep them nested in their openings.

[Ford Blue blood]

Rich I found some Teflon lube at Lowes that did the trick with the heater control cables on the Edsel.  It is in a small plastic bottle, looks kinda clear with white stuff in the bottom.  Have to shake it up really good to mix all the white stuff into the clear fluid (alcohol I think) and the put it in what ever you want to lube.  Made those old cables move as slick as can be!

[RICH MUISE]

That would probably work well..the cable housing has a 1/2 guide tube that funnels into the cable tube, and that guide tube aims downward, so I could get some in there and let it work it's way down.
Do you remember what department the lube was in?
I'm not so sure I don't have too much pressure on that top plastic cover and that the gear indicator isn't pushing down on the "pusher"causing a little drag. I've got to play with shims a little so the underside of the console isn't pushing down on that cover.

[Ford Blue blood]

It is/was (hard to say with all the Christmas stuff) on the main isle at the tool section.  The rack it is on has been moved twice in the last three weeks but has remained on the isle (the isle that runs the length of the store in the front) in the tool area.