update on Rich's build

[57redwhitered]

The guy that soldered the headlight bezel in that article had it copper plated so the solder would stick.

[RICH MUISE]

I guess I need to read the article to maybe get questions I have answered. The main thing though is silver solder is very soft...can't see how it would stop an eyebrow from moving when it expands/shrinks from heat. Also..to solder, you gotta flux...isn't that acidic?

[Ford Blue blood]

you gotta flux...isn't that acidic?

It is...I have used plain ol bondo to connect pot metal and steel with good success.  I do sand blast both surfaces and lay it on heavy.  After it kicks knock off the excess.  Just have to make sure ALL the worked area is sealed up really good with primer and paint!

[RICH MUISE]

For me, I'll stick with the por-15, or more accuratly, Por-Patch...the thickened version of por-15 in a tube. Super strong, flexible to a point, and protects the metals. Added bonus of lots of time to work with. My memory is foggy, I may have also added some epoxy adhesive, but I'm thinking the por-15 items were the primary
Get all the surfaces roughened as possible, por-15 the sheetmetal, por-patch the backside of the eyebrow, attach the eyebrow with the threaded studs, adjust position, wait 4 hours for the stuff to dry. Clean off excess por-15 with laquer thinner before it dries.

[RICH MUISE]

This is a list of the codes the computer is throwing. They mostly are o2/egr valve issues apparently:
172  O2 sensor not switching. single, right or rear ho2s - fuel control
587  Vehicle control module (vcrm) not communicating with pcm.
335  evp/pfe voltt out of range signal
332  insufficient EGR flow detected. EGR did not respond during test
189  rich limit partial throttle*   note...another source I was using said lean for same code #
176  o2 sensor not switching
181  fuel system lean at part throttle. single, right or rear ho2s fuel control
632  E40D transmision control switch should be cycled once between engine id and goose test
536 brake on/off malfunction/not activated during key on, engine running
326 EVP/PFE volt lower than expected. second source explanation: pressure feedback shows egr low pressure not seating or  seating intermitantly
452  insufficient vehicle speed sensor input

[RICH MUISE]

gary/Canadian ranchero....On the above list....587 vcrm. I've got to go back and look at the install instructions to verify what I am remembering, but I do believe the Ron Francis kit no longer included the wiring for the vcrm because the connectors were no longer available, so those instructions that were previously included for it's install were ignored as per their instructions. I believe he told me it wasn't necessary anyways? Your thoughts on that? Would that also affect other things like the o2 sensors, egr?

[RICH MUISE]

Update on the VCRM....according to Ron Francis, it controls the fuel pump and electric cooling fans and not needed in an "aftermarket" engine swap. Both of those on mine are controled by relay harnesses or the Televork panel.

[canadian_ranchero]

does your code reader tell you what codes are in the memory and what codes are hard faults.if not i would clear the codes go for a drive[get up to operating temp] and read the codes again.when you do a running test,the computer is looking for you to step on the brake,turn the o/d cancel switch on/off and to go to full thottle/idle.when the scaner/code reader asks you to.so far i would guess you have a egr,o2 and vss problems.check for vacuum/exhaust leak,that can cause o2 issues.check your wiring,bad o2 sensor? the computer may be looking for the VCRM even if you are not using it.hope this helps.i am sure you will have more question,just let me know and i will try to answer them     

[RICH MUISE]

Yes, There are two seperate tests..one for memory and one "active". I'll need to look at my list to see which are which,and which test is which, but I did clear the sytem before I took it out to get it warmed up, so everything I gave you should be current. I do need to go thru the manual for the scanner. I was just following the prompts on the readout, but I suspect something may be explained in more detail in the manual that may make a difference in my steps.
One thing I'm not sure about...my engine light doesn't come on for 5 minutes or so, and the way the scanner reads it is pretty much done before the engine light comes on. Not sure if that makes a difference in what it's actually finding.
I think I'm going to finally start taking the car apart for repaint tommorrow. The timing is right...the next events I want to do are not until Sept 17, so that gives me 7 weeks to get it done. There is another show in Colorado on that date, and a 100 mile rod durability run in Oklahoma which is the one I'll probably choose.

[canadian_ranchero]

that would help to know what codes are in the memory and what ones are hard/active codes

[RICH MUISE]

Gary...forgot about this....I'm going to have to set the code thing on the back burner again...started taking the car apart Thursday, I removed the headlights and grille/turn signal, so the car isn't streetable for a while.
I may put it back together for next weekend as we've got a big cruise here in Amarillo. It's our annual Polk Street cruise. It's a pretty big event. They close off a portion of the downtown, live music, food, thousands of people lining the streets, and hundreds of hot rodders cruising for 3 hours.
Aside from taking some stuff off, I did another blocking of the driver's side (took me 2 days, lol) and now have it up to snuff ready for the final sealer/primer. This last blocking was done with the guidecoat, and I only needed to tweek a couple small areas on the entire side.
I also tweeked the position of the nosepiece a little. It's still not where it should be, but alot closer than it was. Short of starting the front sheetmetal alignment all over again, I think it's as good as it's gonna get. I looked really close at the bottom of the headlight brow and found a small, 3/8 long, crack at the bottom. I had an identical one on the other side that I repaired. I think it is being caused from the bolting together of the fenders and nosepiece, putting some stress/movement on the fender's sheetmetal at the joining surface. That is why I needed to make sure the nosepiece was adjusted before I repair the area.
Before I spray more primer, I'm going to get my new gun and high flow lines set up so that hopefully I can lay down a smoother finish with the primer as I've been getting too much orangepeel, and therefore too much time blocksanding.
Edit...the Polk Street cruise I mentioned is actually in 2 weeks...Aug 6th

[Ford Blue blood]

Thin the primer ever so slightly.  Won't hurt a thing and it will lay down very nicely.

[RICH MUISE]

Actually the final primers will be thinned. The stuff I was blocking is the high build formula. As the high build, it is thinned 4:1, got to reread the can, but as the sealer I think it is 4:2, and as surfacing primer it is 4:1:1 (primer,activator,reducer).
I'm not sure at this time if the next coat will be the sealer, and I'm not sure if it really needs the sealer coat. Do you spray a sealer coat on your paint jobs, Bill? I am definetly going to do an overall surfacing primer coat to get the base all the same color, and the major places where body work was done is under a coat of epoxy primer.

[Ford Blue blood]

Rich your numbers are good.  I have this thing with the "high build" application.  Even though it says to lay it one as you stated I still put in 25% more thinner.  I do my initial first block with 150 in a cross hatch pattern, go back with the surface application and block with 400.  It may take two or three paint - sand - paint - sand to get it right.  Then depending on the color (solid/metallic/pearls/fine/course materials) go back with the 4:3:1 after a 600 blocking.  I use the 4:3:1 as a sealer.  Let it flash for about an hour or two then put on the top coats.

My working schedule allows for mean ol mister sun to do all the shrinking and gassing.  That's to say the paint goes on and the car is pushed out to "rest" (me and the paint), the next day blocking, cleaning, spray and repeat.  A friend uses infrared heat lamps to speed that process.

[RICH MUISE]

Thanks for the info...so you do use a sealer coat, and I assume that's what you recommend or you wouldn't be doing it. Because of past problems with an acrylic sealer coat and my inability to lay it down smooth enough before I started spraying the top coats, after color sanding and buffing the clear, I ended up with a smooth paint job that, at some angles, looked like it had orangepeel, if that makes sense.
With that in mind, I was thinking of laying down the sealer coat next, followed by the surface primer that could get the final smooth 400 blocking before topcoating. See any problems with that?