AOD Trans conversion

[RICH MUISE]

With your mods, it sounds close to like what you'd have with an AODE or 4R70W. Mine could be left in od when in the mountains, just needs some practice with the throttle. Way more than just a few hundred rpm on mine though.......more like 6 or 700 additional at 65.
Thanks for the "how it works"!

[gasman826]

The AODE, 4R70 and 4R75 can be shifted with an aftermarket controller with some having tuneable shift options...much easier than making mechanical changes to AOD shift points.

[ROKuberski]

I am using an AOD, so mechanical shifting is my only option.  There is no computer on this car to control the AODE.

I did see that Lokar has a shift cable for this unit, but I am hopeful that the original shifter will work.

The Ford-O-Matic is a longer transmission than the AOD, I will have to have the drive shaft extended in the range of 2" - 4".

Rich

[djfordmanjack]

That is a wealth of info you guys are putting up here ! Thank you very much to everybody.
I also have the Bendtsen Speed Gems adapter kit and several AODs but haven't found the time nor the need to replace the factory 3spd Fordo in my 57 4dr wgn. For me the only reason to replace the Fordomatic would also be what Rick said, really not being up to a rebuild myself, and where to find the parts or a pro shop over here? in addition to that the AOD offers just great cruising rpms for the average cruiser car with keeping the og rearend and ratio. I am really looking forward to see how this project works out, please keep us posted !

[hiball3985]

As far as which fluid mentioned in the earlier post I would use what the rebuilder suggested, the type of fluid depends on what friction materials were used but double check with him.

Having this trans will also free up a lot of HP  that the FORD-O-MATIC robs  .

[thomasso]

When I worked in a transmission shop we used Dextron in everything.  As I understood it the only difference was slipperyness. Ford prefered a crisper shift hence the Ford spec oil, Type F.  And I doubt that the cheap rebuilder kits cared much about clutch materials.  Everything worked fine.

[ROKuberski]

The transmission is torn down and was in pretty good condition, but it is still getting the rebuild kit plus the planetary gear unit and the valve body.

My latest measurement on the driveshaft indicates that the difference is 3/4" longer with the new transmission.  If I am right, I am going to look for a longer front yoke rather than cutting and welding on the existing drive shaft.  That does take into account the 2" thick adapter plate.

[RICH MUISE]

Another option if need be is a taller yoke for the differential. I know 1" taller is readily available, not sure of other sizes, but you'll also end up using a combination u-joint on the driveshaft.

[ROKuberski]

I think I've already found a longer yoke.  It may not be necessary to use a combination u-joint.  At this point, I am just going to wait until I have it installed to make a final measurement. 

[ROKuberski]

I've got all of the parts I've ordered and the rebuilt transmission.

This evening, I carved the relieve area on the bell housing for the starter gear and then mounted the adapter plate, crankshaft extension and flex plate.  The adapter kit is a beautiful piece of work.  Fit is perfect too. 

While working under the car I noticed two rubber plugs in the transmission hump.  These line up with the top two bolts on the bell housing.  I wish I knew that a couple of day s ago. 

Now, to install transmission to adapter plate bolts (6) is still going to be tough.  Those top two bolts don't line up perfectly with the access holes in the transmission hump, but I am going to have to try to use them anyway.  The 2" added thickness of the adapter plate pushes the bolts very close to the hump.  I'm going to have to get a socket to hex adapter to reach through those holes to tighten the bolts.  The lower 4 bolts should not be a problem.  In my research no one has mentioned a physical interference between the AOD and the floor of the car, so I guess this will work out.

My latest measurement indicates that the AOD + adapter plate = 35" and the original transmission = 34-3/4".  I can't imagine that 1/4" is critical.  The driveshaft should work without modification. 

Tomorrow is my volunteer day at the Colorado RR Museum, but I'll be back to work on this Friday afternoon.  I hope to have the transmission in the car with a temporary support on the cross member.

Rich

[Ford Blue blood]

Slide the transmission in place and let the engine/transmission assembly hang down a little in the rear, the top two bolts will be a straight shot with a couple of long extensions.  I also make a couple of "alignment pins" to help guild it in place (working on jack stands).  Cut the heads off a couple of 2" long bolts, put a screw driver slot in them and put them in the second hole up.

Last but not least.  The AOD converter has three notches to be fully seated.  If you get the transmission up to the block/adapter and the converter is tight against the flex plate you need to pull it back off and try the converter install again.  When pulled up tight the converter and flex plate should have around 1/16" to 3/16" spacing between them.  Installing the converter nuts and washers will pull them together with ease.

[gasman826]

The adjustment of the TV cable is essential to the survival of the AOD.  The FOM is controlled by TV input using another name and linkage rather than a cable.  There are several methods for correct adjustment.  There is the FORD method, the Lokar method, and the pressure method.  I've tried these and use the pressure method.  I just hook pressure gauge and set to 4-5 psi.

If you are using the Lokar cable, it is NOT mentioned where to attach the top end of the cable.  It is NOT a 1-to-1 ratio with the throttle cable.  Sonnax (and maybe others) make an adapter:   AOD TV Cable Corrector Kit Holley Carburetors Sonnax AS4-04K

[ROKuberski]

GGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.

I just spent an hour trying to put in the transmission.  Guess what?  I have interference with the transmission tunnel.  No one else has had this issue?

I put some masking tape across the top and tried again to see if I could get a mark, as you can see, I do have a mark.  I need go get about a full inch up so I can move the transmission forward.

Rich

I just found another interference.  My shift lever sticks up and hits a corner on the floor pan, I know some levers stick down.  I will contact my builder to see if he can swap that part out.

I took a hammer to the ridge where I have the interference on the tunnel.  I've improve the problem, but with the shift lever hitting now, I am not sure if I've given enough clearance yet.

I'm beginning to wonder if anyone has done exactly what I am trying to do.

Rich

[RICH MUISE]

I think I was going thru basically the same issue when I replaced my engine last year, only in reverse. Not sure how relevant it is, but when I removed/installed my replacement engine (4.6), I had to move the engine and tranny forward a few inches to mate the tranny to the engine.
My tranny is a 4R70W, but basically the same outer case as what you're dealing with I believe, so which engine I would think is irrelevant.
Yes, it's a pita, motor mounts, radiator,exhaust,etc etc Possibly you could loosen the motor mounts and tip the engine back? I was doing it all on jacks, etc, no lift, so I didn't think thru what could have been done if I had a lift.

[gasman826]

It is not just the Lokar cable, it is the Lokar system.  You will need the Lokar shifter for AOD installed.  The lever installs in any direction.  I'm so sorry that I forgot that part is needed.