1957 country sedan build

[1930artdeco]

Well went to install shocks today-KYB 4515's-and found out the don't fit width wise. Then I remembered something about cutting open the bolt holes. So now I have to cut them open and get some big washers for support. Also, went to install the PS system and found out I have to have the idler arm bushings pressed in first, so I need to find a shop to do that. Oh well, at least things are progressing forward and not backwards.

Mike

[hiball3985]

I think we all have had to do that to the KYBs. Great shock and well worth the little modification.

[1930artdeco]

Ok. what am I missing here? Spring wise I put the front brakes in according to the book. But that left me with four other springs in the kit. Then I vaguely remember there being a big and small spring in the front brakes. I ended up having to take the set up apart for something else and replaced them with the big spring up front and a smaller brown spring in the rear. I didn't ahve anything to copy as there were no springs on the front brakes when I got her.

Thanks,

Mike

[59meteor]

The blue spring "left over", is for self adjusting linkage, which 57s did not have. The spring kits are often made for multiple applications, so your kit must have included extra parts for a different newer vehicle, that came from the factory with self adjusters.

[1930artdeco]

That is what I figured or the blue one. Just not sure about the brown one.

Mike

[1930artdeco]

Ok. I got a kit for the front brakes from the local T Bird store and it is slightly different spring wise. I can even upgrade to self adjusting shoes later if I want to. I also picked up my PS steering components after I had new bushing pressed in. So either later this week or next week it will go in.

I also email KYB about there shocks and they said that is the correct shock but not to open up the bolt hole area. But they did recommend a different shock that is about 10mm wider where the bolts go. So I ordered a set and will see how they mount up. They are essentially the same shock but I think they are about 1/4" shorter in total travel and 15% stiffer. I will let you all know about them next week.

Mike

[1930artdeco]

Progress! I have brakes on both front wheels and as soon as I get another special washer that goes behind the axle nut I can button up the front brakes!!!!

I installed the PS linkage and only found two issues . I apparently reverses the bushing and installed the long bushing in the center link with the short one in the bracket. I only figured that out when I looked at my spare set up. I also noticed that I believe I have a manual steering idler arm installed. The spare looks different, so how/why they installed a manual arm I have no idea. So I will soon have steering capabilities!

Mike

[1930artdeco]

Ok, the KYB 4515 shock which are correct according them aren?t quite correct as people have said. I wasn?t totally in agreement with cutting open the blade ends of the shock and as a matter of fact KYB said not to do that.

So I emailed them and they suggested a slightly different shock. 4752 fits Toyota trucks and is almost identical in length and stroke. It is about 10mm shorter but has about 15% more damping according to their tech dept. Here is the nice part though, the over all width of the blade is the same but the holes where the bolts go are 10mm wider. So this shock is a direct bolt in without having to modify the shock at all. So tomorrow I will bolt them in and see how they fit. I won?t know how they handle for several months but I wanted to pass this info along if it has not been passed along before.


Mike

[RICH MUISE]

Good to know, thanks. I honestly can't see an issue with cutting the slots to be honest, regardless of what they said. What difference could it make if we did it or they did it? Possibly just a self-protection thing against lawsuits in case somebody really butchered the job.??

[djfordmanjack]

Rich, it appears to make sense though. If I understand this correctly, the closed eye shocks have a narrow hole center distance. if you cut that open to move the bolt holes further out. there will be parts of the old holes still open and visible next (inside) to the factory bolts. so this shock could shift side to side, and worst case, may tear or brake the weaker inner parts. Opposed to a correct bolt pattern where the hole center distance fits snuggly around the bolts. just saying.

Good progress, Mike !

[hiball3985]

I was concerned also about the possibility of shifting but so far after 15,000 miles I haven't had any problem..

[RICH MUISE]

As Lynn knows, I did have one come loose on my trip to Florida....... he fixed it for me, BUT, as I later found out I was having issues with lots of stuff on my control arms coming loose after a shop I used apparently forgot to tighten everything when installing new ball joints, so I'm not sure what to attribute the loose shock to, and now I'm wondering if this is a good run-on sentence??

[1930artdeco]

update: I made a mistake in reading the KYB email. They said it was ok to open up the blades on the shocks. I was able to get one shock in today (I have to clean the bolts up on the other side) and it fits quite well. Here is their reply:

Hi Mike,

We haven?t had this issue before, but if you have the tools to do so, you would be safe to use a file to widen the mounting holes (along the length of the t-bar) so that they match up better with the bolting points on the vehicle frame. Don?t drill out the holes though so you can use the same bolting points.

KG4752 is very similar to KG4515, but the holes in the mounting bar are about 10mm (3/8?) further apart so it could be a better fit. Only thing is that the damping rate is about 15% higher than KG4515, so you will have a firmer ride as a result.

Regards,
Technical Support
KYB Americas Corporation
techsupport@kyb.com
__________________

[1930artdeco]

Ok, since the bottom half of the car is coming to a close-slowly but moving along-I am thinking about the next project on the car. The heads are in the shop and I just dropped the tranny off for a rebuild, so in a month or so I will get the heads and tranny back along with a rebuilt fuel pump. Here are my thoughts, I will keep plugging away on the engine slowly but the focus I think is going to be the glass-all of it has to come out in some form and be replaced and the floor pans.

I have watched videos of people replacing glass with the rope method but quite frankly I am still nervous. I just don't want to break any of it since I have not done this before. I am expecting there to be rust and having to cut and weld. How hard is it to replace the gaskets for the front and rear windows? is there a step by step procedure? I kind of have to get this done if we move to the NW next summer. All of the gaskets have chunks missing from them.

Mike

[1930artdeco]

If at first you don?t succeed, use a bigger F?ing tool! Got the distributor out-not happy about how I did it but it is out and in one piece. Also buttoned up the passenger side brakes.

Mike