1957 country sedan build

[1930artdeco]

Long time for an update but here it goes. One lower control arm is ready to go in, I need to get another one from a yard and prep it.both upper arms are in and bolted down. I managed to score the plate that goes on the tailgate, so it got installed along with the chrome strips. The pinion gear will get worked this weekend and then hopefully the rear brakes.

I was cleaning the oil pan out-simple green works great on sludge. Then I will have to wipe it out with mineral spirits or gas to get it all out. And I expect to do a few oil changes right off the bat anyhow. But while I was cleaning the pan I found half of a heli coil😱😱. Don?t know where it came from, but am a bit more nervous now. I am going to pop a few caps to check the bearings on the rods and then a few of the mains.

Mike

[1930artdeco]

Well crap. Looks like the engine is getting torn down😢😢😢. I pulled the caps off of 1/5 and found some bad wear patterns. I am no genius that is for sure but know bad wear when I see it. So a main is coming off next but I am already assuming it will be similar.

Differential is back together! Now I just need to start putting the rear brakes on and the then the shocks. One step forward three steps back.

Mike

[mustang6984]

UGH! Something got into the oil at some point. See you in a couple of days. 

[rmk57]

  Doesn't look like it was getting enough oil. The journal and bearing look blueish. Could be the lighting to I suppose.

[Rancher]

From here, as far as "just a freshen up" goes, so far it still looks like a bearing roll-in is all it needs.

Be nice to find +.001 or +.002 shells; probably not likely anymore.

[1930artdeco]

I have ordered a 2-3" mic so that I can check the rod journals, hopefully they are round and normal-i.e. not an odd size to require a regrind of the crankshaft. I also check the first three rod bearings for wear and they have come back around .002 in wear. So I am thinking that the rest will be similar, but I will still check them. Then I will order a set of bearings from Mr. Mummert and put her back together. Sept. or Oct. I will get need heads made up and install the new water pump. I still need to try and get the dizzy unstuck but I a have two back ups just in case. I really only need one back up so may sell of the other, but what are they worth-needs a full rebuild of course.

Mike

[1930artdeco]

Well I checked all of the rod journals and found the crank to have been turned once. If I read the numbers correctly she is about 12 under now. I have one side of the diff brakes installed, I just need to repair the parking brake system to get the spring compressed enough to finish the brakes and install the drums🎉. Still trying to find a lower drivers side control arm.

Mike

[1930artdeco]

I had a productive weekend finally on Betty-well mostly productive. Got her shocks installed (giant pain in the butt and I didn't have the tank in), Got all the rod bearings changed out but I would like to order new rod nuts and then the bottom end will be done and ready to button up. She will need a new bottom end in about 5k judging from the top rod bearing, the crank is worn just enough that the clearances a on the loose side. But she will run fine for what I need right now. The new water pump is installed, so now the engine just needs new heads, fuel pump and carb rebuilt and she should be good to go! The steering components are at the re-builder awaiting their turn now. I have a new lower A arm that I am going to finish up this week and hopefully install the following week.

I finished the front half of the parking brake system but could not get the cables hooked up because the new reproduction adjusting rod I bought is about 6" to short compared to the original. I think that once I get an original in there I will be all set to finish that part and then finish the rear brakes-and then I hope to put the rear drums on!!!!!! The spring inside the drum area I believe needs to be really compressed as you can see it bulging down at the bottom. I also installed the new MC and am just waiting to get the long line in, then the brake system will be done and I can fill her up. Question, the MC did not come with a clip to hold the push rod in the piston like the original one did. I s that normal now? It isn't going anywhere I know but was just curious.

Mike

[RICH MUISE]

I remember having an issue with the e-brake cable reproduction hardware, not positive what it was but very well could have been a too-short threaded rod.

[1930artdeco]

This might be the reason why?..I need a new one.

[djfordmanjack]

Mike, did you pull the cable forward enough ? As you mentioned the springs inside the drums are still bulging, so this takes away maybe an inch or 2 cable length.
remember that adjustment is done with a threaded nut on the FRONT cable !

[1930artdeco]

Hi G, yep I pulled as hard as I could. I even used. Vice grips to pull even further, all I did was flatten the cable out. Not a good thing to do. Everything is a loose as I could make it and I was still about three inches short.

[RICH MUISE]

As mentioned, I recall having the same issue, Gunter. Mike is correct, the repopped threaded rod is inches shorter than the oem.
Lol, Mike..get some shoes on and get an extension welded on to the new rod.

[Rancher]

Difficult to see in the picture...
are the brake shoes installed in their correct primary (short lining, front) secondary (long lining, rear) locations?

[1930artdeco]

MY new shoes came as all one length. I know they are supposed to be two different lengths but when I asked at NAPA he said that is how they come now. I honestly never understood why there were two different lengths. I assume there is a reason.

Mike