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1957 country sedan build

Started by 1930artdeco, 2021-03-21 00:57

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Rancher

The theory of operation is that the lining of smaller area engages the drum with more pressure (psi) and the reaction engages the other shoe into the drum via the adjuster. A self-energizing effect, more brake application for a given hydraulic pressure.

rmk57


  Didn't somebody on here have a problem with the brake lining separating from the shoe?  I think the consensus was to try stay away from bonded brake linings.
Randy

1957 Ford Custom
1970 Boss 429

mustang6984

I remember that...only I thought it was a riveted shoe. But then...my memory isn't always as premium as it used to be...a lot of lower octane memory cells these days.   :-\
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

1930artdeco

It was a bonded set of shoes and if I remember right they were the ?less expensive? shoes. Not sure why the glue would be any different though. I picked up a set of 66 T Bird parking cables today to check if they will work. The spring section is considerably shorter than the ones I have in there. So I will compare the two and see if they work🤞.

Mike
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

terry_208

I believe the member who had problems with bonded shoes was djfordmanjack.  There was another member that also had problems but his name escapes me. 
Terry

djfordmanjack

#290
yes, that was me. obviously bad glue prep and rust kreeping under the linings:

http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=8352.0

Several members said they had observed such, also Gary I think ( gasman826) among others.

hiball3985

#291
Over all the years that I had used both riveted and bonded shoes I have never seen the metal part rust. I don't know what the plating is. Most of the new shoes sold today are made in Mexico and probably some off shore but it makes me wonder what they are using for plating these days. And what the adhesive is?
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

1930artdeco

I am about ready to re-install the lower control arms on my 57 wagon. I have Anti-seized the bolts to death and so far everything fits on the right side. I have to weld a spacer in on the back of the cross member on the left-hopefully tomorrow. But looking at the diagrams in the catalogues, they show three spacers behind the front bolt but in-front of the bushing. I am assuming that the set up gets installed in the following order:

-Bolt
-frame
-spacer
-control arm
-large washer and bolt with lock washer

Is this correct? How many spacers do I need? I did not pull three out of each arm. I think it was only two on each side.

Mike 
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

lalessi1

Drum brakes are "self actuated" in that the friction between the drum and the shoe will pull the shoe into the drum as it turns. That will occur for each shoe if they have  opposite pivot points. Since the '57 design uses a single pivot point at the top, the trailing shoe will be "pulled' into the drum as it rotates forward but the leading shoe will be "pushed" away from the drum. This causes unequal braking forces, so to balance these forces the area of the shoe material is different between the two. Hope this helps.
Lynn

Fairlane62

Mike,
The amount of shim/washers can vary with each rebuild due to variations in tolerances of the bushings and A-arms.  The "proper" method is to push the A-arm tight against the engine cross member and then add shims to fill any gap at the front bushing.  Add enough shims to make it snug since you want the teeth of the bushing to bite in good when you tighten the bolts.  Also be sure to not tighten the lower bolts until the car is sitting at ride level with weight on it.  Otherwise, the bushings could shear when you hit the first bump.

James

1930artdeco

Thank you, I only have about a 1/16" of play front to back the way she is set up right now. I will see if a washer is needed, if not I will bolt her together. I thought it was the upper bushings that needed to be set loose until an engine was in it.

Mike
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

1930artdeco

Boy When Randy at Stanger rebuilding said that I would not recognize my PS parts he was not kidding! The left lower control arm goes in tomorrow and I hope to button up the front suspension  this week and add the steering next week.

Mike
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

mustang6984

Nice work! Look like brand new!!!
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

1930artdeco

The springs are in!!!! I hope I did them correctly, did I install the boot on the lower ball joint right? Next up is steering  and shocks.

Mike
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

RICH MUISE

Looking great. First I've seen of the rebuilt power steering unit..looks like they did an awesome job.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe