1957 country sedan build

[1930artdeco]

Ok, that many wires hanging down does not look fun on my back-even with the seat out. Sooooooo, how hard is it tale the dash out?

Mike

[mustang6984]

If memory serves it is 4-8 screws. I can't remember now...I had mine out 50 years ago in the white one. But I've slept since then. I know it only took about an hour or two. I was going to out a '57 back in...but the one I was going to buy got bought out from under me...so the '58 went back in...and did so in time for my date that night at the drive-in! LOL!!! I was 18.
(I did have help from a more experienced '57 owner, but I'd do it again before I'd lay on my 68 year old back and do it!)

[1930artdeco]

Ok, that doesn't sound too bad...?... I can get the daughter to help me move it out of the car so I can rewire it and clean and lube. I will have to look at the manual to make sure I hit everything.

Mike

[mustang6984]

Oh heck yea! If you have a manual it will go much easier. I didn't have one then. I do now. I am a big proponent of work bench rebuilds...having done more than my share on my back under the dash. Takes more time...but the comfort level...INFINITELY worth it! LOL!!!

I have been watching your threads...I am impressed with how fast you are moving. Good for you! You give me inspiration to get back on mine once I can get my shop sorted out again after that insane year of moving! Keep going! Oh...and most everything you have in mind...Gunther has done...along with everyone else here. Rich did his entire car on his own...with help form here, and he had NEVER fooled with cars before. Having ridden in his...I can tell you he did a superb job in EVERY aspect...and can give you a lot of guidance!

[1930artdeco]

That is why I am on here and several other forums asking questions. I need to know how to get things done the quickest, safest and best way.

Mike

[djfordmanjack]

definitely want to remove the dash anyways, Mike. I seem to remember that you also have to repair or replace a butchered radio and speaker ? Replacing the speaker alone is worth pulling the dash. you'll have to unbolt the steering column drop and hand brake and hood latch pull. you will have to remove and pull the vaccuum wiper motor cable and some or most of the heater control wire cables. Then disconnect the main wire loom from the connector fitting in the engine compartment, also some other parts like brake light switch, ign coil resistor, generator and regulator and horns and pull the main wire loom back into the car. it is all one piece without a firewall connector.

after that it is only 2 brackets ( 1 at each A post) and I believe 3 or 5 screws to the firewall. Oh yeah, you may have to unbolt the m/c to get out the pedal assembly. It all sounds a lot, but will make working a lot easier like Hugh said.

THAT SAID, Still be warned to completely disassemble the wgn right now. There will be a lot of overwhelming work waiting literally EVERYWHERE ! I am just passing on that good tip of better avoiding a full frame off resto.

ps while you have the dash out, you have great access to the heater and especially the dreaded cowl vent rubber drains ! Make sure to repair those while you have good access !

[1930artdeco]

Guenter,

That is exactly what I don't want to do, restore the car right now. I just want to get her on the road safely. But, if I have to take the dash out to replace the wiring vs. have a fire or short, then so be it. I can make it a winter project if need be. After the suspension and steering are done, it is off to cutting and welding in new sheet metal since that is going to take a looonnnggggg time to accomplish.

Also, I just realized that I don't think I can reinstall the springs just yet as I don't have an engine in the car to weigh it down on the stands. No big deal as she is going from the garage to the drive way and back. So I will put them back in when I get an engine/tranny put together.

Mike

[Wirenut]

I rewired mine with Painless and was pleased with the kit. The worst part of the entire assembly was deciding where to mount the fuse box. After seeing the original mess under the dash and especially the age of those connections, it's cheap insurance on reducing a fire risk, chasing intermittent electrical issues. I removed the dash and cannot imagine how difficult it would be without removal. One of the original fuse holders on mine had a strip of aluminum foil to keep the fuse in tight and prevent it from blowing, the light switch had a mind of its own.
I believe the Ron Frances kit is a higher end kit than the Painless kit. The Painless one was more of a generic, not specifically for the 57. I think the RF kit was made to order at the time and had a lead time of a couple weeks. The Painless has the GM connection for the steering column. I changed the steering column so it was a match. I can see where an original steering wire harness would need modifications.

[Ford Blue blood]

There are as many wiring kits out there as paint colors!  Price should not be the determining factor alone.  There are some good kits that are relatively inexpensive and there are some cheap kits that are just that...cheap.  Look around at the various sites and see what people are using and comments.  Google each vendor and look for comments. 

Ron Francis is probably the best out there.  His follow up is unmatched by anybody in the industry.  His tech folks will literally wire your car over the phone.  There are many kits that require a base knowledge of automotive wiring, they are good values if you know your way around.

To get the best buck for your money do a long hard planning session around the end result you want to have with your build.  Example, if you are staying simple and relatively accessory free a small kit would be a much better buy then a Francis kit.  If you are going "he-tech", (fuel injection, power everything, audio, cruise and such), then Francis is the way to go.

[1930artdeco]

As far as wiring goes, I am an idiot. Which might explain why I have a Mac-it is idiot proof. I would prefer a plug and play with great tech support. I don?t really want to have to change this or that to make it fit. So if I pay a little more then so be it.

As for the dash coming out, it would allow me to rebuild the heater box and wipe system. I think I will need both items when I move to the NW😀💦❄️.
Mike

[1930artdeco]

Well had a great day today. I broke the last of the ball joints loose and took out the spindles and upper A arms. I could not get the lowers out as i did not have the wrenches to get the bolts out. Do I have to have the upper bushings pressed out to get the shafts out of the upper arms? One rotated in the bushings, the other did not, so I don't know what portends.

On a side note, went to my first swap meet this year in Alameda and scored this A/C unit. It was first charged in 65 and according to the seller the motor runs! I hope I can use it, anybody have thoughs on how well these work with the new freons? . Slowly taking apart the steering parts and will have to cut more nuts off . I break them loose, unscrew them to the last few threads and then they stop as the tie rod starts to spin in its case:(. Oh well, I will try and get the lower arms out next weekend.

Mike

[RICH MUISE]

I'm trying to jog my memory. I did the control arm rebuild 10 years ago+!. I think I drilled out the old rubber from the bushings using a 1/8" or so drill bit......just kinda chewed it out. After that, I could get the metal sleeves separated away from the shaft, and I think enough room at that point to get the shafts out, leaving just the outer steel bushing to be pressed out. For that I used 5/8 threaded rod and some sockets from a cheap Harbor Freight socket set, which I needed anyways.
When you press the new bushings in, pay attention to the ribs that are on the side of the bushing. They tell you how far to press them in. I remember the shafts have to be in place before pressing the new bushings in. I think I also used those big sockets to press them in with a hydraulic press we had at work.
Mike.....were you the one that lives near Tejares? (SP)

[1930artdeco]

Hi Rich,

Nope I live in Walnut Creek now. And do you have pics of your tool that you made up? I have a local Napa that can press them @$30 a bushing.

Mike

[RICH MUISE]

Hi Rich,

Nope I live in Walnut Creek now. And do you have pics of your tool that you made up? I have a local Napa that can press them @$30 a bushing.

Mike

[RICH MUISE]

Not really a made up tool. I think that 3/4 socket set from HF was like 35 or 40 bucks............a couple sockets and threaded rod, nuts and washers is all you need. Doing it that way also prevents any hydraulic pressure possibly distorting the control arms. Save money and gain a tool set at the same time. LOL, it's about the only thing I've ever used that 3/4 socket set for, except it gives you an assortment of sizes for bending stuff around also.