1957 country sedan build

[1930artdeco]

Thanks Gasman, if I had a manual I would have no problems installing the tranny separately, but I have an automatic. And I don't have a tranny jack, I may be able to rent one though. I will end up getting one of those screw angle adjuster thingies from HF probably. I am going to probably hang the tank tomorrow and then I will roll the car out Sat. and measure things out. Just got the Dampener back today the Dudes did a great job on it. Just am waiting on the dist. to get rebuilt, I get that back in a week or two.

Mike

[59meteor]

Since you have the front sheetmetal on, and have no hoist or transmission jack, if it was me, I would install the automatic transmission first, once the rear mount is attached to the transmission cross member, a floor jack under the pan will allow you to adjust the height and angle, so as the engine goes in, you can make minor adjustments as needed. From 1980 thru 86, I worked at a high volume engine rebuilding shop (300 engines a month), as a engine Re & Re guy, and we always did  the engine replacements on the floor, with the front end up on jack stands, leaving the transmission in place. We found this to be the quickest and easiest method to do it, at least on the mostly domestic RWD or 4x4 carburated V8 vehicles that we were working or at that time. I recently puled the 428 FE and 4 speed out of my 59 for some winter upgrades, and since the 57-59s have fairly narrow hood openings and wide fenders, I decided to remove the front clip for improved access. It is only 7 or 9 bolts, plus the front bumper, depending on the year of the car, gives so much more room to work, plus eliminates possibly denting or scratching the fenders. Also, with the rad support and bumper gone, the engine does not need to be lifted very high, and the front interference is greatly reduced.

[1930artdeco]

59?.I have a hoist just not a tranny jack. But if I can get the front sheet metal off with just a few bolts that is a good option. Where are these bolts located? If it in the regular 57 manual?

Mike

[RICH MUISE]

going from memory:
two screws/bolts up near the windshield.......one on the cowl and the other under the door when open (big sheet metal screw).
one bolt is accessible from behind the interior side kick panel.......may be a nut on a stud???)
one bolt underneath (rocker area)
one bolt on the backside of the inner wheel well about 1/2 way up
One special shoulder bolt under the center of core support.     Make notes here or take pics. as to where the shims go (over or under. This is where the height of the whole front clip is adjusted, and the same number of total shims must be used always.......just depends on each individual car whether they go over or under. Don't lose that bolt...no one makes replacements that I'm aware of.

[abe_lugo]

If you have not already.  You have to pull some of the wiring along the inner fenders and core support on both sides before pulling the front end off.

Use some on blaster on the center lower front bolt and try not to break the stud from the whole bolt. It's like a stepped pin with a stud molded into the end.

If the lower fender bolts doesn't come loose you have an backside access hole there to grab the cage nut.  Sometimes it breaks loose from holding.  Some penetrant oil like kroil or just plain ATF will help loosen the bolts. 

I would say at the point you have the front doghouse off on a car.  You can clean up the firewall a bit.  And might as well do the heater work.  The steering box stuff too. 

[1930artdeco]

Ok, so I got the tank hung yesterday. I got her down tight but the new tank is a bit smaller than the original so there is some slop in the middle ?.. and I added rubber to fill in the gap.

Tomorrow the heads get bolted down and I start running the long lines for gas and brake.

[1930artdeco]

So I got my heater core out for a rebuild/replacement. Found out I have what is called a ?dole? style heater control valve. I would like to replace it with a valve that is inline and inside the engine compartment. How do I do that? Obviously I need a new core (either have mine modified and rebuilt or a new early mustang one) but I don?t have a vacuum set up for the port to open or close the valve. Does someone have pics or a description I can work off of. Better yet, what parts did you use.

Thanks

Mike

[djfordmanjack]

Mike, it appears as if you have the factory heater setup, not the dealer install or aftermarket version. I really can't figure out if your heater core is upside down or if the photo is.
Dole is just an aftermarket manufacturer of the valve, yours looks like an og vacuum assisted water valve, but has been modified omitting the vacuum diaphragm and vac valve. maybe somebody used a mechanical water valve in the  water hose or on the engine.

The spare parts for the valves can get pricey, but I have to say that the factory 57 Ford heater works extremely well and can be regulated literally by the touch of a finger, it is really smooth and sort of a mechanical temp control ( there is a bi-metal 'thermostatic' spring on the vacuum valve). It is well worth restoring imho.
here is a pic of my serviced unit, original to car and date coded to the og build.

[djfordmanjack]

here is a larger resolution pic to see the valve set up. when you order these, you have to order the water valve part ( the large water neck with the diaphragm on) and a seperate vacuum valve part (which is activated by the heater cable and supplies/limits a certain amount of vacuum to the diaphragm).

[hiball3985]

There is also a valve that doesn't need a vacuum source, thats what I use. They are harder to find.

[rmk57]

  I'm diggin that coffee cup. Where did you get it?

[1930artdeco]

Thanks DJ,

The photo is on its side (I gave up trying to fix them when I post them). Thanks for the photos that helps a lot figuring out what I am missing. It looks like someone modified the original valve to omit the vacuum part and ditched the cable part as well. I have a NOS vacuum valve and ordered a new gasket so I will have to see about a new temp regulator. The reason I wanted to put the valve in the engine comp. was for leakage. But if a new gasket and some RTV will make sure it doesn't leak I will stay with the original.

Mike

[mustang6984]

  I'm diggin that coffee cup. Where did you get it?

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LOL!!! All the info on this heater issue...and the coffee cup scores a mention! LOL!! Gotta love it!   

[djfordmanjack]

hahaha....The coffee mug I found on 'tea'bay  , I believe it came from a British vendor. They specialize in printing vintage auto and aviation advertisements.

Mike, As you may have seen the repro heater core in my pics, but I decided to use the original one with the old style copper webbing. ( I did a leak test with 15 psi of air pressure applied to hoses and core dumped in a bucket of water).
Here is how the water neck/diaphragm body is mounted to the core. Once you have a nice fitting rubber gasket and use plenty of good quality sealant, this should be trouble free for many years. I know we all hate coolant leaks on our new carpet, but imho the original Ford design is quite good and safe. Like I mentioned before, it has the benefits of the bi metal vacuum control spring, which more or less holds the heat temperature at a constant level.

Here is another pic of how the neck attaches. make sure to thoroughly clean out old scale, debris or sealant. I used a Dremel with a little steel wire wheel.

[djfordmanjack]

That is also a nice heater valve, Jim. Is that a direct replacement? Never seen one like that before. It also appears to have some sort of mechanical bi metal or thermostatic ( core filled?) spring.

I think the reason I am speaking so much for the vac assist, is that the heater is probably the only fully restored thing on my driver quality wagon, and it's probably the best working part of the whole car....

There is also a valve that doesn't need a vacuum source, thats what I use. They are harder to find.