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1957 country sedan build

Started by 1930artdeco, 2021-03-21 00:57

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mustang6984

Okay...here are two pics of the Fairlane floor. Appears the toe-board does indeed go UNDER the floorboard...as everyone was thinking...undoubtedly to as Terry said, keeping that "scooping" effect out of the equation.
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)

2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

1930artdeco

Update. Had to cut the pass toe board out as it was just toooo thin and had holes in it. Here is the new one being test fit. I now really hate body work.The tunnel side and top are done, just the outside left to trim up and fit before welding it in.
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

mustang6984

Too bad I'm not still in WA...I kind like the metal work. I'd have come over from Port Angeles to help out.
Lookin' good though...it'll get there.
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)

2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

djfordmanjack

#588
Mike, don't worry or hate too much. Just get going and you will fix this. Depending whether you TIG or MIG weld, you may want to adjust your panel gap. TIG needs a close fit, MIG will need a small gap. like 1/32".
if you MIG, you can use your clamps for butt welding, which provide the correct gap. Or, you can put some spot welds on the close fit patches, and cut the gap with a thin cut off wheel in the air grinder or electric angle grinder. Either way you will achieve good weld penetration. If you MIG a narrow or no gap buttweld, the metal tends to warp and/or crack from behind. you can overcome this by cranking up the Amps, but it increases the chance to burn a hole, if you keep at it too long. DO NOT attempt to weld long welds, like 1, 2 or 3 inches at a time. it will heat and bend the metal and warp everything badly. try to weld in pilgrim step spot welds around the perimeter, an inch or so apart, and repeat setting spot welds next to each other, around the perimeter, until you are fully done.
Good luck !

1930artdeco

I just hate trying to cut out the bad metal/rust up to good solid metal and then trying to fit a panel into the spot that I just cut out. It is very frustrating to say the least. If there no curves and I could get to the back side I could cut n butt (ala Fitzee) but noooo...there has to be a body mount right behind it.

I am hoping to finish the fitting of the panel this weekend-in between all my chores and other things that have to get done. Then maybe next weekend I can tack it in and then get going on it in earnest.
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

mustang6984

FITZEE A welding God!  :003:
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)

2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

1930artdeco

I installed the toe board this weekend. The welding went better than I expected and seems to be very slowly improving. At this rate I will be a master welder the day before I die :005: I will have to make some modifications to it on the outboard right side and the upper left corner. In both spot the gap was just tooooo wide to fill in by me or even by an expert. It will take some more time as I am trying to install an air compressor in the garage at the same time, plus garden hardscapes etc., etc.

Mike
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

1930artdeco

Finally the toe board on the passenger side is in!!!!!!!!! I am just finishing filling the the little gaps in and grinding away. Repeat etc. Next up is the corner where everything meets-toe board, A piller, inner rocker lip and floor pan. Wish me luck at not ending up in the asylum....
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

Lgcustom

Looks like you're doing excellent work. The stampings you have are much better than what I had 15 years ago!

gasman826

You're getting there!  Try turning up the heat (voltage) and/or slowing the wire speed.  Grind off the coating.

1930artdeco

Gasman, thanks for the tips (13.5 amps @120) and I forgot to grind the coating off. The problem with doing this once every couple of weeks if I forget to do these things. I even tried really hard to keep the temps down so nothing would warp on me-nope. So I am having to put lipstick on a pig🤬.

I am under no illusions as to my skill level or lack there of. But for a first timer it is turning out decent-ish. The positions and location are just crappy.
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

mustang6984

Quote from: 1930artdeco on 2025-05-29 18:56Gasman, thanks for the tips (13.5 amps @120) and I forgot to grind the coating off. The problem with doing this once every couple of weeks if I forget to do these things. I even tried really hard to keep the temps down so nothing would warp on me-nope. So I am having to put lipstick on a pig🤬.

I am under no illusions as to my skill level or lack there of. But for a first timer it is turning out decent-ish. The positions and location are just crappy.

It appears you are doing well. As Fitzee says...it's just metal! LOL!!! Progress my friend...progress!  :003:
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)

2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

djfordmanjack

Looks very solid again. no big hole anymore ! :002:
Like Gary said, crank up the amps. Don't worry about the heat, the floorboards are rather heavy gauge. When you do hotter welds, you get better instant penetration, you can therefore decrease the welding time, and you end up with less metal to grind away. The job is getting less tedious.

I know what you say about that corner. it is very cramped and awkward to work at.

gasman826

We are all practicing and learning.  Just offering tips that were passed to on to me.  Good lighting and comfortable positioning are also very important.  Your weld heat setting has little to do with the amount of heat (warpage) put into the metal.  Welding in different locations (moving around) will help with warpage as well as hammer and dolly working the welds.  I also keep an air hose close to blow air on the metal to help with cooling. 

CobraJoe

Kinda funny how you mention lighting; for some reason I never needed additional lighting when welding when I was younger???
When I was 14 years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned 21, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last 7 years!


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