got the cams all timed up.went to the red deer spring swap meet and found a new timing chain and gear set cheap.so do i take it apart and put in new or leave it as is?

How many miles on the engine? Aren't these engines a major problem if the timing chain breaks?
If I had more engine mechanical know-how, I would have replaced the one on my 52k engine while it was out.
LOL, I suspect since you bought it, you already pretty much have an idea of what you'll do.

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2015-03-21 18:47
How many miles on the engine? Aren't these engines a major problem if the timing chain breaks?
If I had more engine mechanical know-how, I would have replaced the one on my 52k engine while it was out.
LOL, I suspect since you bought it, you already pretty much have an idea of what you'll do.

just finished putting it in

Quote from: canadian_ranchero on 2015-03-21 17:36
got the cams all timed up.went to the red deer spring swap meet and found a new timing chain and gear set cheap.so do i take it apart and put in new or leave it as is?

If it ain't broke don't fix it!  My MK VIII had 135K on it when I sold it.  Never turned a screw on the engine out side of the drain plug!

still waiting for intake gaskets,rest of the motor is together.now on to the transmission,need to change it over to be compatible with the mark VIII computer

been busy with the grandkids.some update pictures.first one is the tools you need to swap cams/timing chains.next one is of the valve body[putting in a shift kit] and other parts i am upgrading.last one is the torque converter control solenoid you need to change to work with the early computer 

had a new helper today,she is 5 years old.guess how much work i got done.

Probably lots more than you realize. Good chance she'll remember these days for the rest of her life. That's work well done.
BTW, I looked, I didn't have one of those Ford engine cam tool kits in any of my tool boxes, lol.

engine in mounts almost done[need to weld]other pictures of are how i modified the mounts with the mustang frame parts.now the bad news the drivers side cobra manifold will not work with the borgeson box.the stock mark VIII manifolds are stainless steel,and can be welded.will see if i can make/modify them to work.had my helper again today,talked her into sweeping the floor[not a bad job for 5 years old] [had to pay her to do it]

Whoa...that is a total surprise with the Borgenson box. Aren't they smaller than the oem boxes? Dumb question here..how did you determine that? the exhaust manifolds aren't on, and they won't go on with the studs attached to the head. I had to replace my newly replaced studs with bolts.
Great idea with the Mustang frame components.
I was trying to get some engine position references to see how far back you set the engine. Looking at the engine mount stud, I'm thinking it may be 1 1/2 or so further frontwards than what I did. How much clearance do you have at the oil pan/crossmember? If it were/can be moved back further, would it give you enough clearance for the steering box? Looking at mine, I assume the clearance problem is with the manifold flange? I was trying to remember what Claiborn did with his, I think he used headers. I do remember he had the oem power steering setup.
Is your tranny attached?
I talked to a guy in Phoenix that put a 4.6 dohc in a '54 merc. He used two driver's side Markviii manifolds, cutting one apart to switch/reweld the front and back ends.

the problem with the box is the pitman arm is higher than stock.the manifold fits but there is no room for the exhaust pipe.found that out on my first test fit.there is about a inch clearance between the back of the oil pan and the crossmember.i have about 1/2 inch between the trans pan and the trans crossmember.used a trans mount from a 2000 crown vic.here are some pictures

update on the exhaust problem.i reinstalled the cobra manifold and with exhaust pipe mods,i think i can make it work.about 1/2 inch clearance.look at the pictures,give me your opinion.   

Boy that's tight, but looks like it should work. The arm doesn't look like it could swing over far enough to hit the exhaust flange. BTW, I just noticed you trimmed both sides of the upper control arm frame bracket...that's what I'm guessing is allowing you to get the engine set down there with the manifolds on.? I assumed you raised up the engine to put them on. I think even with the ears trimmed you can't get them over the studs with the engine sitting on the mounts.
That borgenson box allowed you to set the engine where you did...probably 1 1/2 forward from mine. It saved you having alter the oil pan and the tranny crossmember to get the engine back far enough to clear a r & P. Room for electric fans shouldn't be an issue as you're swapping to cop's. It'll give more room to fiddle with egr valve stuff, and give you more room for a better throttle cable action. Also, you'll have an easier time with the intake for the throttle body. The only downsides I can see.... You'll have to do something for a driveshaft, The Mark Viii is about an inch short if ideal on mine....and coming up with radiator hoses may be a little tricky, esp the bottom one.
I'm pretty sure I used the CV tranny mount on mine as well. Just needed some minor alteration if I remember. The combination of metric and sae on this drivetrain and it's mountings is a pain in the butt, isn't it.

rich,the steering arm is as for right as it goes.the left side manifold can be installed with the engine in place.i have deleted the egr so that will not be a issue.did you need to move the e brake cable mount?looks like the exhaust will hit. 

I didn't move it, but I did cut and reweld it so it angled the cable down a bit more to help clear the exhaust. My exhaust was in back to the H pipe, but has room for adjustments after I get some hangers put in. The way the oem e cable bracket was, it was wanting to pull the pivoting arms up into the exhaust. I'm not sure if I can avoid that 100%, but it's definetly better.